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Mine is kind of over the transmission. I used Camry manifolds and flipped them front to rear to get the outlets where I needed them for the Y to work. It's not an MR2 but the pics may help. If you want other pics, let me know.
that’s a lot more space behind the engine than an SW20 has! What car is that? Looks easy to service.

What turbo are you running? E153 on it still? I’d love to see your crossover pipe and any other details. Have a build thread?
 

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It's a Lotus Europa. GT3584 non RS turbine wheel, .82 a/r internal gate. I would just use a GT3582 if I did it again. I don't think it was worth the extra work to build, I was just trying to keep it from running off the map into choke at max rpm. E153. I have a sort of build thread but it's mostly Lotus related. 54/1451 2GR swap. I placed mine where it is so I could fit the intercooler where it is. Any more forward and it wouldn't fit and oil drain line would be too difficult. Europa's have a large removable trunk that go deleted to place it back a little. Like an MR2, I still a small front one. I know your trunk walls is part of the car though.
 

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That’s way more space than an SW20 chassis, but I like it. I thought about going under the oil pan rather than over the trans, but it does add extra tubes to route and the back side of the engine bay is tight.

How is the boost threshold and lag on the GT3584?
 

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That’s way more space than an SW20 chassis, but I like it. I thought about going under the oil pan rather than over the trans, but it does add extra tubes to route and the back side of the engine bay is tight.

How is the boost threshold and lag on the GT3584?
My boost threshold will be different than on an MR2. I have a 3.6 fd and I'm running 245/40-15 tires. I weigh 1730 lbs. I go through 1st and 2nd pretty quick. If I start in second gear boost comes on around 3k, if I'm low in 3rd I can make 8 psi around 3500 rpm. My last autocross it looks like I made 4 psi in 1st before shifting to second. If I made boost any sooner, it would not be good for me. I run BFG Rival S tires and traction is still limited in first and sometimes second if they are cold.

Thinking I wanted quick spool. I ran a t3/4 60-1 with a stage 3 turbine, .63 a/r initially. I could make 8 psi by 3200-3400 in 2nd. It didn't pull good to rev limit though so I swapped to this and I'm happier.
 

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That’s probably not much different of a gear ratio than a stock MR-2 trans and 17” tires. Sounds like you need to be in 4th to really load the engine up though due to the weight.

hmmm, 8 psi in the 3.5k rpm range isn’t bad. I imagine an S362 SXE is about the same response to your turbo. S257 SXE would be a tad quicker but run out of steam for the last 1-1.5k rpm of the tach.

Now to go take some more measurements.
 

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My boost threshold will be different than on an MR2. I have a 3.6 fd and I'm running 245/40-15 tires. I weigh 1730 lbs. I go through 1st and 2nd pretty quick. If I start in second gear boost comes on around 3k, if I'm low in 3rd I can make 8 psi around 3500 rpm. My last autocross it looks like I made 4 psi in 1st before shifting to second. If I made boost any sooner, it would not be good for me. I run BFG Rival S tires and traction is still limited in first and sometimes second if they are cold.

Thinking I wanted quick spool. I ran a t3/4 60-1 with a stage 3 turbine, .63 a/r initially. I could make 8 psi by 3200-3400 in 2nd. It didn't pull good to rev limit though so I swapped to this and I'm happier.
So from a .63 to a .82? Nice! I'm looking to hit boost in higher rpm... closer to 4k where my Torque Converter stall is so looking at 1.06 AR.

Is yours a ceramic dual ball bearing with billet compressor wheel?
 

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So from a .63 to a .82? Nice! I'm looking to hit boost in higher rpm... closer to 4k where my Torque Converter stall is so looking at 1.06 AR.

Is yours a ceramic dual ball bearing with billet compressor wheel?
Dual BB, billet wheel. Ford used a 1.06 gt3582 on the XR6 4L turbo. Because of that you can get the .63,.82, and 1.06 in aftermarket for less. I bought the 84mm cold side, a GT bearing housing, standard 3582 turbine wheel + bearing kit, and aftermarket .82 housing. I had to have the bearing housing machined for the 84mm wheel. Even with that I was under $900 for a complete turbo. Assembly required. I can post links if anyone wants.
 

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That’s probably not much different of a gear ratio than a stock MR-2 trans and 17” tires. Sounds like you need to be in 4th to really load the engine up though due to the weight.

hmmm, 8 psi in the 3.5k rpm range isn’t bad. I imagine an S362 SXE is about the same response to your turbo. S257 SXE would be a tad quicker but run out of steam for the last 1-1.5k rpm of the tach.

Now to go take some more measurements.

It will make full boost in 3rd. The gearing is about the same but with less weight I'm in the lower gears a bit less.
 

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Dual BB, billet wheel. Ford used a 1.06 gt3582 on the XR6 4L turbo. Because of that you can get the .63,.82, and 1.06 in aftermarket for less. I bought the 84mm cold side, a GT bearing housing, standard 3582 turbine wheel + bearing kit, and aftermarket .82 housing. I had to have the bearing housing machined for the 84mm wheel. Even with that I was under $900 for a complete turbo. Assembly required. I can post links if anyone wants.
Is that an OEM Garrett turbo, or using 'aftermarket' parts like Chinese wheels etc? I thought you couldn't balance a GT ball bearing CHRA at a traditional turbo shop with their machinery (never heard a good reason, other than they all say they can't rebuild the OEM Garrett CHRA).
 

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Is that an OEM Garrett turbo, or using 'aftermarket' parts like Chinese wheels etc? I thought you couldn't balance a GT ball bearing CHRA at a traditional turbo shop with their machinery (never heard a good reason, other than they all say they can't rebuild the OEM Garrett CHRA).
I've bought many parts from local turbo shops that only do turbos. Only one had a balancing machine. Everything is balanced individually from the factory. I know some places assemble and balance but many don't, they just assemble or do rebuilds and reassmble. I've put together many turbos in over 20 years and never had a failure.

Part I used are aftermarket.

I bought the bearing kit and turbine from Turbo Labs of America. He has an Ebay and Amazon store. he had a god video on the GT35R bearings with install and remaoval. Totaly different than old Garrett journal turbos.
 

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How about keeping swap headers and Y-pipe, but mounting the turbo in the trunk? One short up-pipe and one short down pipe solves oil drainback. Plus you get to keep your diffuser. Maybe build a box over the turbo for heat shielding.
 

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Once you start talking about cutting into the trunk, it obviously removes most your packaging issues on an SW20.
 

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Found some interesting pics of a T4 twin scroll setup from a company called Soara Performance.

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The over the trans piping fits nice, and about where I estimated the flange would be, and probably saves about 4-5' of tubing on the front bank wrapping under and around the engine. I wonder what it looks like when you try to wire and plumb the engine though. It seems like there'd be a ton of stuff wanting to be in the same general area as the crossover tubing.
 

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That’s actually not bad at all. I wonder how the turbo actually fits with everything else around it though. It only takes one component trying to through another to spiral into a fairly involved fab project.

Valuing my time at zero, I’m at like $250-450 for a cheapish setup, probably just doing a vband inlet as I think the twin scroll benefit is not huge on a V6 compared to an I4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Some turbo 2GR news relevant to this thread.

Somebody has gotten somewhere with the rear mount turbo 2GR in the SW20 chassis. This was done a few years ago (2016-2017) in the Evora chassis. I've been pushing this concept for the last few years.

ATS Racing - Aaron Bunch/Scott McLendon. Owner: Launce Bennett
Comp Oilless 6265 ball bearing turbo
Top mount intercooler
Link Extreme ECU
ATS 875cc top feed injectors
ATS adjustable fuel pressure regulator with vacuum/boost reference
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Tial BOV
[MWR Stage 1 Cams]
Tuning and fabrication by Scott McClendon

Dyno result: 507whp at 8.8psi on 93 octane (AKI) pump fuel.

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Nice build! Nice fabrication! Nice dyno result! But unfortunately it appears that he blew his engine the first time out at the racetrack at MR2 Nationals. Quoting: "Things got hot." He blames this on not using e85. Truedat, when you have a2a with a rear engine you need all the fuel cooling you can get. I personally would never use a2a in any MR2, never have, never will.

Comp Turbo is an oil-less turbo. No oil lines, no gravity drainback needed. The concept is plenty proven. They have two turbos very close in size for our application, a 6265 (the one used in this build) and a 6262. My feeling is the 6262 would probably spool a few hundred rpm sooner and at the boost levels we are talking bout plenty of headroom for top end - could be an opportunity to test the closed loop EBC with rising boost concept is used. This sorta looks like what they did - check out the boost curve on the dyno chart, I don't thnk we are looking at boost creep, not with an external 44mm WG and experienced tooners - but maybe the PID parameters in the boost control need a little bit of fine tuning. On my dyno I would not call this boost curve "optimally controlled." I would maybe decresse the proportional gain a little and up the integral gain a little bit. This is free advice take it for what it's worth.

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