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Just for info, I'm using a Clutchmaster FX300 with a 2GR and so far it holds the torque, and is very easy to engage. I used it for around 2000km last summer.
Maybe it's at the limit of the clutch, I can't tell.
I guess I will see next summer when I will do some lapping at the track.
But if FX300 is fine, FX400 must definitly be good enough :)
 

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is your 6 puck disc on a new pressure plate and flywheel surface or a re-used flywheel / pressure plate? The ceramic might have to bite into the flywheel a bit? seems weird that it would slip when people use those for a lot more 3sgte torque..
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Jared said:
is your 6 puck disc on a new pressure plate and flywheel surface or a re-used flywheel / pressure plate? The ceramic might have to bite into the flywheel a bit? seems weird that it would slip when people use those for a lot more 3sgte torque..
new pressure plate, new flywheel surface (fidanza replacement friction surface)

I've got about 600miles of city driving before this happened so the surfaces should be mated together by now.

keep in mind, it only slipped under the most extreme situation. a 1-2 shift is the largest RPM drop. shifting from redline drops the RPMs by 2700RPM. at full throttle that's asking quite a bit from the clutch.

in day to day and even otherwise aggressive driving it's doing great. but i won't be putting another one exactly the same in here again because it does not fit my needs and certainly won't fit the needs of anyone drag racing either.
 

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again, why havent you called southbend, they will build you a clutch to your needs, and their customer support is above the rest!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Smaay said:
again, why havent you called southbend, they will build you a clutch to your needs, and their customer support is above the rest!
Because i'm not sponsored and i had bought this clutch that should have been good enough?

it takes quite a few miles to wear out a clutch and while i love to share the information to save other people time, i'm not going to buy 10 clutches to give you guys a side-by side compare on my dime.

I've dealt with southbend clutches on my trucks before and i agree with what you're saying. i just haven't used them for this car.

they are close enough to me that i can drive there to talk to them in person.
 

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ok thats way too much $$$ please call southbend, it will be cheaper. im going to get one too. and my buddy that just got one for his swap loves his.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Smaay said:
ok thats way too much $$$ please call southbend, it will be cheaper. im going to get one too. and my buddy that just got one for his swap loves his.
i'm starting to think you're sponsored by them. you can do what you like with your money.

and yes, 700-800 is a bit higher than a normal e153 clutch, but it's not "way too much" when you consider what it is.
 

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I recently replaced the clutch in my car. The ACT throw out bearing had been making noise for ages. This time I went with a Southbend stage 2 endurance (and OEM ToB). It's rated at 495lbft, which is up from the 390lbft of the HD-SS, not that I needed it. I've put over 5k miles on it by now and I'm quite happy with it. The pedal pressure seems to be less than the ACT, which is nice. That was my gripe with the ACT as I daily the car in the summer.

The old ACT after about 30k miles.


New Southbend Stg2-E:


Mounted:
 

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Good morning,

With all of the many options people have used for clutches, Which have people used
I have seen about 5 different clutch and fly wheel combos used.

I am looking for something similar to the stock clutch, as I daily drive (commute) in my car, but I also like to put my foot down.

Please let me know what clutch and fly wheel combo you have used, its reliability? How long has it lasted? and pedal feel.

Thanks
 

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I posted a followup in another one of my threads regarding the SB combo immorality posted above. To me, it sounds like this combo would work well for your needs. Stock pedal pressure, easy to daily drive stop/go traffic, handles the 2GR except under the most demanding situations... I only have an issue with it *(some slip) when doing real hard 1st to 2nd gear shifts. I try to make this an uncommon event, but it's so hard not to flog the 2GR mr2 on occasion...LOL
 

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so for drag racing 2gr should I buy ACT HDG6 ? or there is a better clutch ? The flywheel is probably going to be fidanza
 

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Discussion Starter #33
"for drag racing" is a very wide statement. the ACT HDG6 will put up to quite a bit of abuse but it's probably not what i would put on a dedicated drag car. But then again, a stock 2GR makes a fun car at the drag strip but a 12.5s car is hardly competitive these days so there's just too much info missing to give a good answer on this.
 

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"for drag racing" is a very wide statement. the ACT HDG6 will put up to quite a bit of abuse but it's probably not what i would put on a dedicated drag car. But then again, a stock 2GR makes a fun car at the drag strip but a 12.5s car is hardly competitive these days so there's just too much info missing to give a good answer on this.
turbocharged 2gr 450 rwhp at the initial stage , then am going to build it for 650 rwhp and change the clutch again if necessarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Oh, ouch. if i assume peak power at 7000 RPM which is probably about right you're looking at 390lb*ft of torque and then turbo cars generally need some RPM to launch well at the track so you're going to need something that can put up to some abuse.

The TM1-HDG6 is rated to 500lb*ft so it would likely work but a bit but i'd expect you'd only get a season's worth of use out of it before it was completely toasted.

You really need a dual clutch disk setup for something that will launch that hard with that much torque/horsepower off the line.

Also, the Fidanza flywheel is probably not a great plan, if it was my car i'd go for a solid steel flywheel instead for an application like this. it's too easy to overheat the friction material otherwise.
 

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that one is rated for 390lb*ft and has the pressure plate that some people complain about the clutch feel on, but personally i like that pressure plate.

I don't like organic in an application like this because it isn't nearly as forgiving of driving aggressively, once you overheat it, it's holding power is compromised significantly.

the clutchmasters says "Holding capacity 170% over stock" which is a completely worthless statement because nobody knows what a stuck clutch is rated for. also, I find it suspicious since my 2gr dyno'd at pretty much exactly 70% more torque than my 3s-gte did on the exact same dyno.
This is an unrelated question: Marc did ever get the cruise control to work with the 2gs.
 

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My ACT clutch doesn't have excessively high clutch effort, but the effort isn't linear.
The last bit of engagement feels very different from the first bit. I am used to it now, but at first, I drove the car like a complete nincompoop.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
My ACT clutch doesn't have excessively high clutch effort, but the effort isn't linear.
The last bit of engagement feels very different from the first bit. I am used to it now, but at first, I drove the car like a complete nincompoop.
This is not actually the clutch, this non linearity is because of the assist spring on the MKII's clutch. it can be adjusted a bit which can make it a bit better.
 
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