2
Price: All told there is WELL over $20,000 in modifications to this car. Shop rate for a V6 or 3S conversion (not counting all the extra performance bits and using the E153 out of a Turbo MR2) is $15,000. NADA book value on a 2003 Spyder with 46k original miles in excellent condition is $10,000…meaning I have over $30,000 invested into this car.
The market value of something is contingent upon what somebody is willing to pay, and what previous examples have sold for. I am unaware of a 2003+ 3.3L V6 Spyder with under 50k miles selling in the US. Much less one with a 1000hp capable turbo limited slip drivetrain. Marcos (USPS Pro) was the closest, but was a 2001 with over 100k miles and had a 3.5L V6, but with an S54 (non LSD, weak stock axles, etc) tranny. His sold for $17k. I tried to buy it before somebody else snagged it. Would have saved me 2.5 years of work lol. One other V6 MRS for sale last year – was asking $20k but I believe he pulled it down and decided to keep it.
Engine: I sourced a low mileage 3MZ out of a 2005 Sienna. The 3MZ is the higher displacement 3.3L V6 that Toyota used in several cars, but in the Sienna it was tuned up to 240lbft and 232bhp (with stock intake/exhaust/headers/cats/etc). I have paperwork on the Sienna it was pulled from and it has 42k miles. The reason I used a 2005 (and not a cheaper 1MZ or pre-2003 3MZ) is that it still passes all requirements even in California if you have a documented swap from newer car (NOTE: It would still need a cat added and resistors added to bypass the auto tranny CEL to pass inspection in California). Trueleo Racing custom fabricated the dual stainless headers. The exhaust is a custom Magnaflow dual in/dual out 2.5” rated to flow unrestricted exceeding 500hp.
The car was fully converted to 2003 5spd specifications with all OEM hardware (brand new OEM Master Cylinder, OEM hard clutch lines, factory unions, etc) No cheap rubber clutch hose draped through the car! The entire undercarriage was removed including the fuel tank and the clutch system was installed with a Turbo slave cylinder. 2003 5 spd MKIII Spyder shifter and new shifter cables were installed, and were all mated to the turbo drivetrain through Noobie MRS’ very complete 3/16" plate shifter linkage conversion kit. It now cruises at a quiet ~2500rpm, and when you push the go pedal, it GOES.
Engine mount kit is the 2nd generation Noobie MRS mount kit with a custom Trueleo Racing passenger motor mount. Reconditioned AC compressor and all Spyder AC equipment retained. Needs to be joined, evacuated and filled. I wanted to leave myself the option for AC in the future.
The rear bumper is NoobieMRS’ fantastic “crash bar”, custom built for dual exit big exhaust tips. It retains the factory tow bar bungs for the thread-in tow hook.
The OEM ECU runs all the body stuff – Gauge cluster, airbags, ABS, seatbelt sensors, radiator and AC fans, AC controls, factory alarm, etc. A secondary 1MZ ecu runs the motor, allowing all the power with none of the nannies that the 3MZ ECU requires (no traction control, drive by wire, immobilizer nonsense to leave you stranded and scratching your head).
IT HAS OBDII AND IT WORKS! In fact it has (2) OBD2 systems. One is in the rear of the cabin, one is in the front. The body OBD2 diagnoses everything except the engine. The other does the engine and nothing else. I have a picture posted of me driving it with my tablet hooked up and in my center console. Reads everything flawlessly. If it had a cat it could pass an OBD scan if your state has those (mine doesn't).
Everything on the dash works like factory: tach, speedo, engine temp, battery, HVAC, Factory alarm and keyless entry.
The “left to do” list is short and subjective. The car runs and drives great, everything works. Its more convenience or race car items that "need" to be completed. If it were a race car it would be done, and to most people reading this it is done. But to be a daily driver these are the items I still wanted to do:
• Dipstick tube fabricated – have 3 spare dipsticks. Still has OEM dipstick but hard to reach.
• Tranny light and CEL are on. This requires resistors to turn off the light. I didn't care to spend the time researching.
• Battery tray needs to be fabricated – it has an oversized JCI battery to crank the big motor, located in the frunk. I can probably take care of this if I get my asking price.
• It has a very small dent in lower right hand quarter panel from lift arm. Paint was not scuffed.
• Rear bumper (crashbar) is just scuffed and clear coated. I hadn’t decided what color to powdercoat it and rather liked the raw steel look.
• UPDATE: Got techstream working today and ran diagnostics (4-3-15). Shows the left rear ABS sensor has intermittent communication. I will supply a good ABS sensor with purchase along with the thousands of other spare parts. ABS and Speedo are still working. Original: One of the rear ABS sensors is making the OEM ABS ECU unhappy (or did). When I originally finished the swap the ABS light was not on (have dozens of videos showing this, see pics). But I had a bad wheel bearing, and rather than replace the wheel bearing I replaced the whole knuckle/bearing/hub assy with one out of a 2002 spyder. The new hub fixed the wheel bearing issue, and the speedo still works (meaning the ABS tone rings are giving the appropriate reading), but the ABS light was triggered. Everything works, so I was not concerned. But want to disclose everything.
• Currently it is running on OEM fuel pump at OEM fuel pressure. I used a full EARL’s fuel feed system with Fuel pressure gauge to adapt the 3MZ fuel system to the Spyder pump and OEM hardline. The next step was to install Aeromotive Rising Rate Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and Walbro 255 which will let it really rip (should add 30+ hp with a little tuning). I am including the $175 FPR and Gauge in my asking price.
• VVTI is not hooked up. Will require a 3MZ ecu..which then means bypassing the immobilizer. Troy's and Bill Strongs race car have respective 1mz and 3mz ecus and showed little to no power gain, so I opted to skip the immobilizer headaches and have a more robust, simple electronics setup.
Extras that come with the car: Extra cabin portion of shell. (Read: EXTRA ENTIRE REAR OF SPYDER.) MR2 turbo hardtop and rear and side glass. Extra: AC lines, Radiator lines, interior plastics, shift boot, fenders (for future metal widebody conversion).
QUESTIONS ABOUT FRAME/SUBFRAME ALTERATION: The frame on this car has NOT been altered! This is IMPOSSIBLE with a 2GR 3.5L...hence me running a 3MZ 3.3L. There is not a lot left on the table that cannot be made up in the tune, and it was not worth destroying the firewall and frame rails. I am quite aware of this car’s collectability and only did the alterations absolutely necessary. This is the main reason I did not go with a 2GR – it does not fit in the factory engine bay easily. With my swap I had to clearance the crossmember – and I purchased a used one. I still have the original for the new owner (if he cares). The rear “slam latch” was cut and rotated 180degrees and rewelded. This is analogous to the “core support” on a front engine car. The core support was braced with 1” square tubing and is more rigid than the car originally was. The only other option to fit a V6 intake manifold is to cut away at the slam latch until the manifold clears. I felt this would structurally weaken the car (and was kind of half assed) so I opted to flip it. Either one is not really a big deal.
Subframe and MK2 hardtop project:
The market value of something is contingent upon what somebody is willing to pay, and what previous examples have sold for. I am unaware of a 2003+ 3.3L V6 Spyder with under 50k miles selling in the US. Much less one with a 1000hp capable turbo limited slip drivetrain. Marcos (USPS Pro) was the closest, but was a 2001 with over 100k miles and had a 3.5L V6, but with an S54 (non LSD, weak stock axles, etc) tranny. His sold for $17k. I tried to buy it before somebody else snagged it. Would have saved me 2.5 years of work lol. One other V6 MRS for sale last year – was asking $20k but I believe he pulled it down and decided to keep it.
Engine: I sourced a low mileage 3MZ out of a 2005 Sienna. The 3MZ is the higher displacement 3.3L V6 that Toyota used in several cars, but in the Sienna it was tuned up to 240lbft and 232bhp (with stock intake/exhaust/headers/cats/etc). I have paperwork on the Sienna it was pulled from and it has 42k miles. The reason I used a 2005 (and not a cheaper 1MZ or pre-2003 3MZ) is that it still passes all requirements even in California if you have a documented swap from newer car (NOTE: It would still need a cat added and resistors added to bypass the auto tranny CEL to pass inspection in California). Trueleo Racing custom fabricated the dual stainless headers. The exhaust is a custom Magnaflow dual in/dual out 2.5” rated to flow unrestricted exceeding 500hp.
The car was fully converted to 2003 5spd specifications with all OEM hardware (brand new OEM Master Cylinder, OEM hard clutch lines, factory unions, etc) No cheap rubber clutch hose draped through the car! The entire undercarriage was removed including the fuel tank and the clutch system was installed with a Turbo slave cylinder. 2003 5 spd MKIII Spyder shifter and new shifter cables were installed, and were all mated to the turbo drivetrain through Noobie MRS’ very complete 3/16" plate shifter linkage conversion kit. It now cruises at a quiet ~2500rpm, and when you push the go pedal, it GOES.
Engine mount kit is the 2nd generation Noobie MRS mount kit with a custom Trueleo Racing passenger motor mount. Reconditioned AC compressor and all Spyder AC equipment retained. Needs to be joined, evacuated and filled. I wanted to leave myself the option for AC in the future.
The rear bumper is NoobieMRS’ fantastic “crash bar”, custom built for dual exit big exhaust tips. It retains the factory tow bar bungs for the thread-in tow hook.
The OEM ECU runs all the body stuff – Gauge cluster, airbags, ABS, seatbelt sensors, radiator and AC fans, AC controls, factory alarm, etc. A secondary 1MZ ecu runs the motor, allowing all the power with none of the nannies that the 3MZ ECU requires (no traction control, drive by wire, immobilizer nonsense to leave you stranded and scratching your head).
IT HAS OBDII AND IT WORKS! In fact it has (2) OBD2 systems. One is in the rear of the cabin, one is in the front. The body OBD2 diagnoses everything except the engine. The other does the engine and nothing else. I have a picture posted of me driving it with my tablet hooked up and in my center console. Reads everything flawlessly. If it had a cat it could pass an OBD scan if your state has those (mine doesn't).
Everything on the dash works like factory: tach, speedo, engine temp, battery, HVAC, Factory alarm and keyless entry.
The “left to do” list is short and subjective. The car runs and drives great, everything works. Its more convenience or race car items that "need" to be completed. If it were a race car it would be done, and to most people reading this it is done. But to be a daily driver these are the items I still wanted to do:
• Dipstick tube fabricated – have 3 spare dipsticks. Still has OEM dipstick but hard to reach.
• Tranny light and CEL are on. This requires resistors to turn off the light. I didn't care to spend the time researching.
• Battery tray needs to be fabricated – it has an oversized JCI battery to crank the big motor, located in the frunk. I can probably take care of this if I get my asking price.
• It has a very small dent in lower right hand quarter panel from lift arm. Paint was not scuffed.
• Rear bumper (crashbar) is just scuffed and clear coated. I hadn’t decided what color to powdercoat it and rather liked the raw steel look.
• UPDATE: Got techstream working today and ran diagnostics (4-3-15). Shows the left rear ABS sensor has intermittent communication. I will supply a good ABS sensor with purchase along with the thousands of other spare parts. ABS and Speedo are still working. Original: One of the rear ABS sensors is making the OEM ABS ECU unhappy (or did). When I originally finished the swap the ABS light was not on (have dozens of videos showing this, see pics). But I had a bad wheel bearing, and rather than replace the wheel bearing I replaced the whole knuckle/bearing/hub assy with one out of a 2002 spyder. The new hub fixed the wheel bearing issue, and the speedo still works (meaning the ABS tone rings are giving the appropriate reading), but the ABS light was triggered. Everything works, so I was not concerned. But want to disclose everything.
• Currently it is running on OEM fuel pump at OEM fuel pressure. I used a full EARL’s fuel feed system with Fuel pressure gauge to adapt the 3MZ fuel system to the Spyder pump and OEM hardline. The next step was to install Aeromotive Rising Rate Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and Walbro 255 which will let it really rip (should add 30+ hp with a little tuning). I am including the $175 FPR and Gauge in my asking price.
• VVTI is not hooked up. Will require a 3MZ ecu..which then means bypassing the immobilizer. Troy's and Bill Strongs race car have respective 1mz and 3mz ecus and showed little to no power gain, so I opted to skip the immobilizer headaches and have a more robust, simple electronics setup.
Extras that come with the car: Extra cabin portion of shell. (Read: EXTRA ENTIRE REAR OF SPYDER.) MR2 turbo hardtop and rear and side glass. Extra: AC lines, Radiator lines, interior plastics, shift boot, fenders (for future metal widebody conversion).
QUESTIONS ABOUT FRAME/SUBFRAME ALTERATION: The frame on this car has NOT been altered! This is IMPOSSIBLE with a 2GR 3.5L...hence me running a 3MZ 3.3L. There is not a lot left on the table that cannot be made up in the tune, and it was not worth destroying the firewall and frame rails. I am quite aware of this car’s collectability and only did the alterations absolutely necessary. This is the main reason I did not go with a 2GR – it does not fit in the factory engine bay easily. With my swap I had to clearance the crossmember – and I purchased a used one. I still have the original for the new owner (if he cares). The rear “slam latch” was cut and rotated 180degrees and rewelded. This is analogous to the “core support” on a front engine car. The core support was braced with 1” square tubing and is more rigid than the car originally was. The only other option to fit a V6 intake manifold is to cut away at the slam latch until the manifold clears. I felt this would structurally weaken the car (and was kind of half assed) so I opted to flip it. Either one is not really a big deal.
Subframe and MK2 hardtop project:
