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Discussion Starter #1
I know I've asked this a few times but I preaty sure I have just about everything needed before I do the swap but I want to check and see what else I need before I do it. My Na motor gave out last weekend and I finally have the funds and time to do the swap. The Car is a 93NA

Now I have all the big parts which are motor, tranny, axels and hubs as well as the temp sensor mod, and the tach mod, fule pump and turbo shifter cables. I'll be using a automatic ECU and I forget the link off the top off my head to trick it into working.

The 3 big things I know I need are
new motor mounts, I'd like to get TRD ones but I'm having a hard time finding new ones. Are their any alternitives?

I know I need a FPR and that shouldent be much of a problem getting that and the fittings.

Possible bracket for drivers side axel. Now I'm using a 91NA tranny w LSD, I forget what year axels (know 93 in 91 trannies need work) But will I run into hub carrier issues???

Besides that and rubber collent hoses and needing to fab up motor mounts on some of it I'm preaty sure I got most things worked out. I'm planning on having a week off to do the swap as well as about a grand to work with for unexpected stuff as well as a new cap and rotor and that type of stuff. I'm just wondering if I'm missing anything really big here?
 

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1991/2001 V6 Mr2 #8
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Seth W said:
I know I've asked this a few times but I preaty sure I have just about everything needed before I do the swap but I want to check and see what else I need before I do it. My Na motor gave out last weekend and I finally have the funds and time to do the swap. The Car is a 93NA

Now I have all the big parts which are motor, tranny, axels and hubs as well as the temp sensor mod, and the tach mod, fule pump and turbo shifter cables. I'll be using a automatic ECU and I forget the link off the top off my head to trick it into working.

The 3 big things I know I need are
new motor mounts, I'd like to get TRD ones but I'm having a hard time finding new ones. Are their any alternitives?

I know I need a FPR and that shouldent be much of a problem getting that and the fittings.

Possible bracket for drivers side axel. Now I'm using a 91NA tranny w LSD, I forget what year axels (know 93 in 91 trannies need work) But will I run into hub carrier issues???

Besides that and rubber collent hoses and needing to fab up motor mounts on some of it I'm preaty sure I got most things worked out. I'm planning on having a week off to do the swap as well as about a grand to work with for unexpected stuff as well as a new cap and rotor and that type of stuff. I'm just wondering if I'm missing anything really big here?

general maintainence items... Timing belt, gasket kit, depending on the yr of the motor, no cap and rotor is needed but plugs would be, new oil and filter, new tranny fluid (ATF in the N/a tranny)

As far as the axles and hubs... make sure that the axles are LSD axles if they are to be used w/ an LSD tranny. If you are using the N/a tranny, then the N/a hubs will work. For hoses from the engine, Check my V6 sticky thread for part #'s.
 

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Does the na fuel pump push hard enough?
Have you made some return-style fuel rails?
Clutch?
Read stickys for axles, or Node's thread on a bracket.
Heater hose
Routing coolant overflow or getting new bottle
Timing belt/water pump depending on mileage
All engine seals
there's no cap and rotor, it's distributorless ;)
Motor mount for passenger side?
Heavy gague wire for building an alternator harness.

Only a week?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
using a turbo fule pump, exeddy clutch and light weight flywheel. I plan on running a FPR so once I get going on it (been in storage for a year now) I should be able to determin what all is needed to make it work. I can get a aftermarket coolent overflow from work (probibly cusco) yeah I forgot that they have coilpacks:) I'm planning on eventually supercharging it. Engine is lower miles (40 or 60k) but yeah it's a good idea to replace parts that will suck to get to in the car synce it's out of the car at this point.

My goal is 1 week, I've done a lot of favors for people so it's not just me doing the swap. I'm sure it will take longer but I'd like to knock most of it out in a weeks time. Hopefully if I actually have most of the things needed I'll be able to get that done.

As far as the tranny deal goes it's a 91T tranny with turbo axels and TRD LSD. Now isnt their a length differance between 91 and 93's if I knew what it was I could find that part out. I'm not sure in fact but in theroy shouldent my speed sensor (electronic) fit into the area where the mechanical one would go???

Also I plan on running a piggy back ecu (unichip or perfect power) because our shop has them and I'd like to see what gains can be made. I know na's usully dont see huge gains but I'm sure it would come in handy when I supercharge it in about a year or so. We've had good sucess with them on subarus so hopefully it isnt too bad for toyotas but I'll see.
 

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The optimal spec is 50 PSI, fixed. I did use vacuum, but it made the idle lopey so I removed it to get back to the 51 I had it set to. Fixed pressure is what the ECU wants anyway.

As far as axles go, only the LSD is the factor in Turbo trannies. Since you have a TRD unit, you will keep the stock non-LSD Turbo axles. You can fab up a bracket like Node is working on, but at this point for the money, just cut the new axle retainer groove in the inner stub axle and have a 1/4" spacer made to fit behind the bearing. All of this will move the bearing 1/4" closer to the tranny and it will fit perfectly.

BTW, buy a new axle carrier bearing from Toyota. Dave said it was cheap!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the help, so on the FPR I'm looking for a non return style of one rather than a return type right?

Also too I'm still have troubles finding TRD motor mounts, any suggetions? If I cant get them should I just get turbo ones and urethane fill those?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
never mind on the mounts, just to make sure I'll be using all but the one on the passienger side by the timing belt.
 

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Sorry, forgot the mounts.

You could use the N/A mounts I suppose, but I'd find a Turbo set if you can. One thing you MUST do is to fill the front and rear mounts with 3M Window Weld, #08609. It's urethane in a caulking gun tube.

Next, start scrounging all of the tranny mount brackets. ONLY the front tranny bracket is the same from N/A to Turbo. Basically, of the six pieces you need to convert the mounts from N/A to Turbo, only that one is the same part.

Email Godzilla on this board and see if he has parts. Also, Brad may have some brackets and mounts.

I highly suggest that you spend the bucks and get a set of headers from Brad. Especially if you plan on supercharging one day, you will NEED headers. Brad's wife's V6 N/A used to fall off at about 4800 RPM, then he put headers on it and it ran hard to redline. Like mine does. :)

The fuel system needs to be converted to a return style. Aeromotive has them. Dave can give you part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I would really like to get the headers, I think I'll have to save my milk money for that after the swap:( I really only have about a grand for misc parts at the moment.

I'll hit everyone up tomorrow, I'm staying late at the shop today to swap in a full STI engine and drive train (all ready done) in a older GC8 impreza. I forget what turbo he's running but it's something like a 350+ Hp car in a 500lb lighter chassic....good stuff.
 

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1991/2001 V6 Mr2 #8
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The way Dan & I routed the Fuel lines...
From the MR2's fuel filter, we went to a tee connection on the passenger side of the engine, from tee to each fuel rail, from each rail to each side of the FPR, from the FPR's bottom side to the return line in the MR2...

Ok, So...
Off the Summit Racing receipts that I can find at the moment...

Part#'s Description

aei-13109 Aeromotive FPR, -6 an outlets w/ gauge port and 1:1 boost port
ear-985006 -6 an female to -6 an 9/16-18 adapter (to go into the FPR and allow for hose end connections)
sum-230610 10ft length, -6 an stainless braided fuel line
rus-661020 Tee connection (-6 an all the way around, Used to split incoming fuel supply to each of the rails.)
rus-610020 -6 an female straight hose ends
rus-670510 -6 an male to 12mm x 1.5mm adapter (used at all 4 ends of fuel rails & the fuel filter.)
sum-800199 0-100psi fuel gauge for FPR
rus-671570 Assembly lube/ sealant


There are two other pieces that I don't have the part #'s for...
-You need a 45deg hose end for one of the rails (the one that interferes w/ the filler spout)
-And a 90 deg -6 an female to -4 an hose end (to connect to the return line from the bottom of the FPR.)


Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks all for the info and help. Looks like I'll be busy this monday getting the rest of the parts that are needed.

I'm thinking of redoing a lot of my suspention bushings and the like as well when I'm in their. I have a preaty good suspention setup on the car now but I'm sure that the bushings and the like are probibly preaty beat up so I may as well fix that. I'm really looking forward to the swap and the results of it, I'm also looking forward to humbeling a lot of the subaru guys here at the shop as well.
 

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So hows progress Seth?

Anything you realized you were missing?

The one thing I would suggest for you is the higher output alternator option. Since the car that we are taking the engine out of is front engine... We have the unfortunate draw on the electrical system that that engine did not when it was in a Solara...

Electro-hydrolic Power steering...

Also, If you plan on upgrading your stereo and/or your driving lights and high-output fuel pump... there is added electrical draw vs. stock Solara systems.

The Toyota Highlander had a 130amp alternator that came as part of the towing package. That is the way I'm going with my V6 do-over. I found the stock Solara alternator to be a little weak.

Keep us updated on your progress.

You've got questions, we've got answers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
humm didnt consider that.... I have some driving lights as well as a stereo so thats 2 for 2. I'll do come calling around tomorrow.

I was planning on taking tomorrow off of work to get a earily start, FPR showed up today and I'm getting my TRD mounts by the weekend (also got new ball joints). My plan is to get it out over the weekend and get the new one at least posistioned in place.

I'm sure I'll have many questions to ask you guys and as always thanks for helping a fellow owner out. we should have some pics posted up at http://www.mouabros.com/gallery/ as the swap is under way.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I came up with a few more questions for you guys, one is what do I a do about the evap system. I know mine uses a charchol canister (5s) and the newer engine (1mzfe/OBD2) somehow vents it's gasses differntily. Whats needed to make this work, I'll have to DEQ my car again in a few months and I really dont want to fail because of a CEL.

the other is about my starter, I think I read that it will do the trick but I just wanted to make sure, mine is a 5sfe starter and the tranny is a 92T tranny.
 

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In many states, and I don't know about yours, your car will still be a '91 when it's done. In somewhere like CA, you will have a '99 or whatever motor you put into it.

So, if you still have a '91, you can use the stock EVAP canister by simply adding the "P" port to the TB if you don't have one already. (Most newer 1MZ's don't have it, but if you have an earlier TB, it may.) You can add it by drilling a 1/16" hole through the TB bore, then tapping the leftover hole to 10-32 and threading in a standard hose barb. I have one if you need it, but you can buy them from McMaster-Carr as well. A bag of 10 is only a few bucks.

You WILL have a CEL unless you put in the whole OBDII EVAP system, which is an enormous PITA, and a post-cat O2 sensor or full emulator. (Enough acronyms for you?) Just put a switch in the trunk on the CEL. Also, go to Harbor Freight and buy their $50 OBDII reader, which will also reset any codes you get.

Use the N/A starter. It's a 1.6KW starter, which is more powerful than the 1.4KW Turbo starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
cool cool thanks for the info. I cant waint to do the swap. some how I thought that I was going to start it thiss week but it turns out it's next week, oh well this way i figure I can get all the little things delt with before hand.
 

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so this would be the complet list for the feul system?

1 AEI-13109 Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulators $134.95 $134.95

3 EAR-985006ERL Earl's Performance AN Port Adapters $7.88 $23.64

9 RUS-610020 Russell Full Flow Hose Ends $4.88 $43.92

1 RUS-661020 Russell Tee Adapter Fittings $10.50 $10.50

4 RUS-670510 Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings $4.95 $19.80

1 RUS-671570 Russell Hose And Fitting Assembly Lube And Sealant Kits $9.95 $9.95
?The part is classified hazardous. Additional fees may apply. If you purchase this part, your order can only be shipped by ground.

1 SUM-220686 Summit Racing Hose Ends $12.95 $12.95

1 SUM-220687 Summit Racing Hose Ends $12.95 $12.95

1 SUM-230610 Summit Stainless Steel Hose $39.95 $39.95

1 SUM-800199 Summit Chrome Plated Fuel Pressure Gauges $19.95 $19.95
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well I got the motor out today without a hitch, I didnt really want to beat my self up over it so I ended today earily. I figure tomorrow I'll throw the 1MZ in it and start going from their. I'm sure I'll have some more questions as the swap progress so I figure I'll just ask them here vs starting up another thread.
 
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