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1991 Toyota MR2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sup guys, I recently picked up this 1991 SW20. I have pretty big plans for it to which I'd like to document somewhere. I've already started working on it at the time of posting this so this thread will begin during my engine bay work. The plans for this car: 2GR swap with an engine bay shave, wire tuck, and then eventually repaint, wheels, that easy stuff.

The goal for this car is to be a "GT" sort of car that I can pretty much do whatever with while being comfortable. For example one day I can hit up the track for some fun, visit a car show, win a trophy, and head home with a long drive. All while being comfy and retaining my sense of hearing, should be easy to do right? :p

Here's what the car looked like at the time of purchase. Good ol matte red.
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1991 Toyota MR2
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Before I get to the meat and taters here's some pics of the car before and after a paint correction I did on it.

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Overall I was very happy with how it turned out. I wasn't expecting to pull so much out of that paint but now I can rocked this polished turd.

The process was:
1. Wash with dish soap and clay bar the entire car
2. Used a DA with yellow Hex-Logic pad with Meguiars Ultimate Compound to do most of the cutting
3. Followed with a orange Hex-Logic pad with Meguiars 205 (I shouldve used Ultimate Polish, 205 was hard to work with)
4. Then used a black pad with Meguiars Ceramix-Hybrid wax to protect the paint

The whole process took pretty much the entire day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And this is where everything gets caught up. This is where I am at now.

I am still currently filling in major areas with Everglass (fiberglass filler) then I will be going over it with Metal Glaze (glaze putty) for the finishing looks. The entire bay has been stitched welded and ground down relatively flush to help strengthen the bay and keep it from flexing and potentially cracking the filler. Most seam sealer has been wire wheeled off except in areas that aren't visible from a top down view. Most bolt holes, nuts, studs, brackets, and wiring harness holes have been filled, removed, or grounded flush. As well as the shock tower "braces," those were drilled out. The engine bay color is still undecided but I am leaning towards a light cream color, but I gotta put my brain to use about it.

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Nice work. Good example of how a paint correction can bring single stage back to life. That's a lot of work for the engine bay but it'll look great with a 2GR in there.
 

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I'm going to be 4th Gen swapping the same way you're doing your 2GR - no lift, just jacking up the rear of the car. How did the 5S drop go? I've been told it's pretty simple.
 

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I'm going to be 4th Gen swapping the same way you're doing your 2GR - no lift, just jacking up the rear of the car. How did the 5S drop go? I've been told it's pretty simple.
Dropping and MR2 engine is quite easy vs some cars. I put the engine lift in from the side so it doesn't damage the bumper skin. Using the engine mount bolts as lift points. Yes, it makes it a little harder to move the engine out of under the car but that's a minor issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to be 4th Gen swapping the same way you're doing your 2GR - no lift, just jacking up the rear of the car. How did the 5S drop go? I've been told it's pretty simple.
Yeah, it was much simpler than I thought it was going to be. I just had the front tires on ramps, rear on stands. I dropped the 5S onto a harbor freight pallet then I lifted the car up with the rear tow hooks then just slid the motor out from under. Then lowered the car back down onto the stands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its been primered ! Basecoat goes on next week, a can I got was no good so I had to order a replacement basecoat. I think it turned out pretty good. Theres a few spots thatll need some more primer, you can see on the front firewall there is some zebra striping. That'll get fixed right before I lay the basecoat down.

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Engine bay work is going to be worth it. I did it a few years back. Seemed pointless after the hours I spent, but once the white went on and it got glossy... Looks unbelievable.
 

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I’m impressed. Didn’t really understand at first all the engine bay shaving, glazing and then white paint coverage! Seems pretty radical to us old schoolers but like the fresh approach. You obviously know your stuff so keep up the good work.

Like others I’ll be watching the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just been prepping the motor to put in the car. Shaved and painted the valve covers. Working on shaving the intake manifold. Painted the VVT solenoids and other top engine parts flat black as well.

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I am very happy with how the valve cover shave turned out. It really cleans up that rear bank quite a bit. More updates to come !
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wrinkle red?
Looks good man
When you say you shaved them, what did you remove? And how did you do it?
Yes wrinklre red. And by shaved I mean, removing unused bossing and bolt holes. I just used an angle grinder and a handheld sander file to remove the bossing. Then my friend gave me the idea to loctite bolts into the unused bolt holes, cut and grind the heads off, then grind if flush with the covers, turned out to be a pretty good idea.
 

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Very cool man, keep the pics coming

Ive got a spare valve cover to spray, but not sure what color I want to do, had considered the wrinkle red
Is wrinkle red a specific color or is it something you do to the color you choose after the fact?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Very cool man, keep the pics coming

Ive got a spare valve cover to spray, but not sure what color I want to do, had considered the wrinkle red
Is wrinkle red a specific color or is it something you do to the color you choose after the fact?
The way VHT does their wrinkle paints, it's a set color. I think they only have black, red, grey, and blue wrinkles. But I heard someone talking about how you could probably just spray a black or grey wrinkle, then spray on your color on top of the wrinkle but I haven't tried it.
 
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