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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
figured out the simple solution. previously was relying on the Fp to B+ jumper.

i had cut into the COR harness to replace all five ends so tested the COR and got inconsistent resistance on both the main COR and back up COR soo... removed the COR completely, and running the fuel pump by connecting Blue wire to Black wire. works and ran the wires into the cabin to a switch that turns on the fuel pump... and is powered when the key is in RUN position. and can turn off in case of upside down off road excursion..

Light Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Electricity Cable
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
here's the close up of the switch which lights up when the fuel pump is running and will sit somewhere on or near the dash. found some 14 gauge household copper wire to temporarily test...

Hood Automotive lighting Bumper Finger Vehicle door
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
That is a good thought, but it only works if you are alive and aware. One reason that relay is there is so that you don't blow up the rescue squad that shows up to help you.
excellent advice and just doing this bypass to keep the car running and not stuck in my garage. winter snow storms start mid december here!! still not 100% fixed and found another B+ wire that is suspect. even with the 'fix' i am getting major hunting up to 3,000 rpm and can manipulate the harness so that the idle will settle down to around 2,100 rpm... still not perfect. more investigation this week. will send some pics. the B+ wire comes from the COR and splits off into the harness on its way to afm and other systems. i found a suspect wire that is crimped by factory and seems to be hanging on by last couple threads. fixing and will report back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Did some more work on the mr2... got the timing light out and found the distributor out by one tooth. got the timing on the right marks (though high rpm idle) and more important cut into the harness a little more and found a black/yellow with red mark B+ wire that has factory crimp to three wires that go into the COR was hanging by threads. cut all four wires. joined, soldered and really stabilized the stalling and hunting issue. excited to get back on the road. 2" of snow this morning!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
drove the mr2 for about an hour yesterday. idle settled and not hunting at 1,600rpms. no stalling so driving well. oil pressure, coolant temps, oil levels all bang on... tweaked the idle screw a quarter turn and will report my findings on my next drive... it did do a little hunting at the end of my hour long city drive... 1,100 to 1,500 rpms... possible harness issue still exists...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Made some more progress. Over the weekend finally got the timing light out and found the timing was off by one tooth. A simple description would be that the timing marks (made more clear by 'painting' the three notches) on the crank pulley were off and about 1 1/2 inches towards the rear of the car.
The more I turned the distributor towards the driver side, the closer the timing marks would get to the pin that sticks out of the tensioner. However I was still off the mark so i pulled the valve cover, set the crank pulley to top dead on the intake side (i could see the dimple/notch under the oil filler cap) and found the dimple on the distributor facing straight up and thought for sure i had this correct. I pulled out distributor, rotated the gear enough to move the dimple one tooth towards the passenger side, reinstalled and checked the timing with timing light again. I was able to get the marks properly lined up, tightened up and went for a drive.

I was still idling at 3,000 rpms and gave the idle screw in the throttle body about five or six full turns a quarter turn at a time and got mr2 idling nicely at just under 900 rpms. left it idling for about ten minutes and went for a drive. no more hunting and no stalling. car was purring like a kitten (at least one that has a terrible squeaking tensioner roller) and drove really well.

i did go into the trunk and nudge a few wires around the harness and got the car to misfire... pulled the spark plug wire #3, no change, pulled the spark plug wire #4 no change, pulled 1 and 2... almost stalled out. odd thing is when i pulled the 3 or 4, i would could see sparks at the igniter... weird?

I jiggled the wires again and misfire gone, and tested 3 and 4 and would misfire... thinking the #10 or #20 wires to ECU suspect...

getting close though!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
more digging and it turns out it's the e01 / e02 brown wires in the left hand side harness next to the #10 and #20 that cause stalling issues. adjusted the wires and reseated the harness now cannot induce stalling... fixed.. for now.... and checked the timing with light and seems i'm a in between plus 10* and 16* advance... so about 13*. will adjust and report back.. one single when lifting off throttle over 4500rpm
 
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