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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 1988 mr2 sc after owning a 87 na for 4 years. the sc ran convincingly well for about a month in town and for a few long trips
of about 1.5 hours. After a third long trip, as I exited the freeway and
released the accelerator, the oil pressure would drop, and the car would
stall till it was cool.

At first it seemed that the engine was burning oil, so I would monitor
the level. Then it seemed to run fine at drives less than 30 minutes.

I also checked the SC oil and it seemed to be fine.

Then I had to drive it for an hour, to another location, and the same
symptoms of gradual loss of oil pressure, till I exit, shut off the car,
and engine stall. I towed it to my house, checked oil levels, all full.
I started up the car, it idles roughly, but if it goes above 3K rpm,
a slight grinding sound comes up. Oil pressure level starts off centered,
but after 10 minutes it is obvious that the level will gradually decrease.

Anyone have any suggestions of potential problems or solutions?
I've never let the pressure drop below 1/4 of the gauge, but I know
it doesn't take much for engine damage, as far as the SC being damaged,
I don't know enough about that system of the car as I had just received
it. The only changes I made to the car after purchasing it was to
re attach the Catalytic Converter (to get a smog) and an oil change.
Previous owner denied any problems of the description. I don't really
care if it's not fixable, I just feel like it's a waste, cept' for parts if
I can't get it running well again.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses I'll check it out

Thanks for the advice, I'll post any worthwhile updates
 

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BTW, the SC oil supply is totally independent of the engine oil supply, so a pressure drop on your guage would only relate to the engine oil system, not the SC.

Toyota's recommendation on the SC oil system is only to keep it topped off, no recommendation on change interval.
 

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Have you done teh really easy steps yet? Like get the car to the point you can replicate the noise at will. then pull off the accessory belts and make sure your noise is from internal to the motor.
See if you can isolate if it is from teh top end of the motor, or the bottom end. A way to do this is with a timing gun.. cams spin at 1/2 the crank speed so if your noise has any fluctuation or tap/ beat to it at all you can figure out if it is bottom end or top end.
 

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make sure you bottom pully is not coming off the crank snout!!!

drain the oil and strain it before running. let us know what you find in the oil.

Do this before running the motor again!!!
 

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yea but be sure to re-fill the oil :)
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I'll drain the oil, filter it, and check it tomorrow morning. I'll let you know if I find anything. I'll try to remember to refill it :)
 
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Of course, or I'd offer to sell it to someone that has an interest and time to work on it. Don't worry. I love my cars, it just I don't have enough know how or time to deal with this SC.
You guys probably never have seen these, so here's some pics:
http://www.hukilaunet.com/my2mr2s/
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, so I drained the oil, filtered it with a panty hose 2x, and the results are: there was about 3.7-3.8 quarts of castrol synthetic 5w-50 that came out pretty clean, the only thing I could see on my filter was a few (very few) metallic shavings like smaller than glitter. maybe like 5 pieces.
I decided not to refill the engine oil till I get some feedback on oil types and exactly
how much I should put back in, if I should change the oil, even though the old
looks ok, should I add any Lucas additives etc etc.
Originally when I got the car (summer) it had regular castrol GTX 20w-50 in it.
Somehow I thought the 5w-50 would do better in the winter.
Any feedback, is appreciated.
 

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Well, I would think that 5W is a bit light for the 4AGZE, and may be part of your oil pressure problem. Also, switching from regular Dino oil to synthetic oil late in an engines life can cause problems, so you might try refilling with a heavier, regular oil rather than the lighter synthetic.

I have always used 10W-30 or 10W-40 Mobil 1 in my MR2 SC, and it gets a whole lot colder where I live than it does where you do....
 
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Yeah, nick, I tend to stick with 10w-30 Mobil 1 in my MR2 NA,
Maybe I'll try adjusting the weight. Hopefully it's an easy fix. If not, I gotta go
back to trouble shooting. I guess it's 10w 40 then.
Thanks for the comments. I'll need to research about the oil pump etc.
before I go any further... ... thanks for the comments.
 
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