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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Suspension is happening sooner than I thought, went to get a state inspection sticker with a high chance it wouldn't pass. All the bushings are dry rotted and the driver rear toe link is bent. Add to that the couple of body holes from rust, pitted rotors and I've got some work ahead of me to get it fully legal. So she'll sit for a bit while I wait on parts and do some body patching. Thankfully there's good coverage of the bushing work on YouTube for an amateur like me and parts available from twosrrus. Fingers crossed I won't be having to cut anything off for removal. But hopefully this takes care of the shaking when hitting 30 and 60 mph and a slight pull to the right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
NH, citing it's around exhaust getting in the cabin...and small overly curious humans that may poke at the sharp metal only to lose bodily fluids. From what I gather, NH is pretty strict on the safety and emissions rules vs growing up in Maine with basically just emissions rules :p
 

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'91 MR2 Turbo, '20 BRZ
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Wow, amazing that they are that strict! Yeah the suspension pieces aren't too bad, and the poly-urethane bushings do a nice job of firming everything up. Hardest part is getting the old bushings out, which is one of the reasons to invest in a press, but there are decent kits for bushing extractors out there too. The only thing I didn't work on were the rear tow links. I gave up trying to get the stock ones loose for adjustment, and just went with the aftermarket version.

Also, if your bushings are dry rotted, very likely your ball joints may need replacing too (as once that boot wears out and lets dirt/etc in, it starts to wear. Had a buddy where his popped right out while driving and suddenly looked like one of those over-cambered cartoon cars! So I'd inspect those too (at the very least). Also, convenient to do whilst doing the other bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Been a while, but a case of COVID, lack of garage access, rusty suspension parts, and the old viper alarm system disabling the engine took it's toll.

Finished:
Brake rotors replaced
Control arm bushings done
rear strut bar bushing half done
Rear tie rods replaced
Oil change done
body holes ready for bondo
Routed new antenna and stereo mic wires down a-pilar.

Goals before winter at this point:
Finish getting it road legal
sand and spot paint the surface rust
get some winter tires on her
replace the alarm system with a newer more reliable one and remote start

Spring/summer will be deep cleaning, a visit to a body shop to get the body back up to snuff, new wheels and tires, replacing rusty motor mounts, and possibly a new exhaust setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Lol one winter to see how it handles it, especially before taking it to a body shop anyway...plus I don't have a place to store it for the winter. At a minimum I need to move it for plowing. Ancient cracked summer slicks on steelies probably won't cut it. Want new wheels and tires anyways so why not keep a set of winters on the steels just in case.
 

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AW11b - 4AGE - C161 6speed trans
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I'm happy to see another MK1 project.
I had a similar problem with my trunk. The lock itself was busted and the cable was nowhere to be found (turned out it was in the trunk), so I broke one of the licenseplate lights to break in to my own trunk. I chose that way because it is a part that is rather easy and cheaply found because it was on more toyotas.

I fully understand what Webixman says. If you make it a diamond before you know how to drive it, you might get some tears. Learn to drive this car with a 4AGE first, before you make even more power.
My brother in lawhas an AW11 with a blacktop, wich doesn't make that much more power, but it has stock ITB's and a redline of 8300 rpm. You can use the stock CPU of the blacktop, so aftermarket is not needed.
IMHO you don't need another engine in this car, but if you really want one, the blacktop is a nice replacement.

I've seen AW11's with +300 bhp, but those are dangerous things. Also, no longer fun to drive because of the focus you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Definitely want to learn the car before any extreme upgrades. That said I may make smaller upgrades of anything I have to replace now, i.e. the rear toe rods (one was bent), rotted bushings, and the leaking radiator. Unsure if I'm going to try to muscle my way through removing the strut rod bushings (very rusted) or just swap the arms out altogether. State inspector was a little leary of the shocks too...

I put fresh rotors on and the previous owner had done the pads but the brakes are still a little squishy so I may look at brake lines and fresh fluids soon too.
 
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