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Discussion Starter #1
So went to another shop here in LA after being told that my entire transmission would have to be dropped to visually inspect my car. Seems like all they did was bleed my brakes and flush out the transmission.

New shop wants 1,500 for a new clutch... absolutely insane. Any thoughts or anyone in LA only who can do this cheaper? I'm all ears, also if anyone wants to take this off my hands let me know only 88k on the odometer n/a engine 5 speed swapped.



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That's an insane amount of money to do that job. That's an eye watering $2,300NZD. With that money I could buy ALL the tools needed to do the job such as an engine crane, jacks, stands, sockets and other hand tools.
Is it possible to do any work yourself? Yes, you need to take the engine out, which is the easiest way to do it.
 

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That's an insane amount of money to do that job. That's an eye watering $2,300NZD. With that money I could buy ALL the tools needed to do the job such as an engine crane, jacks, stands, sockets and other hand tools.
Is it possible to do any work yourself? Yes, you need to take the engine out, which is the easiest way to do it.
I know right? I'm at the mercy of the forums and a member who can direct me to a good mechanic here in the San Fernando Valley. Allegedly all components will be replaced and possible axle and rear engine seal?

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Most of that cost is in labour and paying retail for parts. Never pay retail for parts but ALWAYS use a genuine clutch throw out bearing (TOB).
Yeah, replacing the rear main seal should be done. Machining the flywheel is a good idea too. Axles seals normally need replaced as when you remove the axles the old seals get damaged and start leaking. Been there, done that...
 

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Most of that cost is in labour and paying retail for parts. Never pay retail for parts but ALWAYS use a genuine clutch throw out bearing (TOB).
Yeah, replacing the rear main seal should be done. Machining the flywheel is a good idea too. Axles seals normally need replaced as when you remove the axles the old seals get damaged and start leaking. Been there, done that...
What ya think? Commit to it?

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Discussion Starter #7
Totally understand, my car is almost 30 years old, although I've had it only for a year.. hoping to get some advice from the forums

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Sorry I can't be more help. I'm not in America so things are a bit different. Maybe I'm too far removed from the cost of getting shops to do work too.
But keep the car. They are so much fun and so many people have told me they regret selling it when I speak to previous owners. Mine is almost 30 years old too. June 2020 will be 30 years.
 

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Hey no worries, ya I know what other mid engine Japanese cars other than the nsx are there?

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That's pretty much it for semi-popular production cars that are mid-engine (and affordable). You've basically got the cheapie version of the NSX.

As for the clutch job charge, that is actually the going rate per blue book - no surprise there. If you can't work on your own deuce, check your local CL or other "Pennysaver" type online/hardcopy publications for backyard mechanics. They usually do a far better job for 1/3 to 1/2 the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's pretty much it for semi-popular production cars that are mid-engine (and affordable). You've basically got the cheapie version of the NSX.

As for the clutch job charge, that is actually the going rate per blue book - no surprise there. If you can't work on your own deuce, check your local CL or other "Pennysaver" type online/hardcopy publications for backyard mechanics. They usually do a far better job for 1/3 to 1/2 the price.
My other concern is that I bought this car 2nd hand from someone who did an auto to manual swap, I have no idea what condition the transmission is in but the mechanic said that it's most likely just the clutch and no other issues.

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Can you slip the car in 3rd gear without it stalling?

If so, then your clutch is dead/dying. If it stalls, then your clutch is doing its job and transferring power.

This is also a quick way to test a new (to you) car prior to purchasing it.

-TC
 

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I have done the job twice. once it took my brother and I 11 hours with jackstands, but we didn't do the axle seals, and main seal like we should have and ended up with a leaky car. the other time it took me 3 months with a lift. clutch wouldn't fully disengage and the whole thing has been a fiasco. Might be worth the $
 

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I think $1500 is actually fair and worth it for a clutch job on this car. It's lots of labor because of all the stuff you have to remove including the removal of some suspension stuff, the subframe, and the axles. I'm currently doing this and a bunch of upgrades on my 1993 NA, including clutch, flywheel (plus a bunch of additional stuff like brake upgrades, tires and wheels, coilovers, new radiator, etc.). Got the engine on a stand still but doing a lot of seal replacement and clean up at this point. Its really a fun car to keep for the future too. Your car exterior looks in good shape. Highly recommended as more and more of these cars are disappearing. Good luck but I don't think the shop is trying to take advantage of you for that price due to the labor involved.
 

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The subframe is super quick to remove, as are the hubs and axles. I think a shop with a lift could knock this out pretty dang quick... It is no worse than most FWD cars. However I have never paid to have a clutch replaced so I honestly have no idea how much a shop would charge. I imagine I could do it in my garage in a day. In my opinion, with parts and labor $1500 seems decent for a shop to perform the work.
 
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