|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|July 15th, 2019 11:28|
|1950884||Sweet thread. Thanks for sharing.|
|July 15th, 2019 00:54|
Good practice benckj, as long as you are sure about how to get that boot lock back on
It can be tricky and there's a straight forward way to get it done. Anyone pulling the boot, don't wrestle with that lock when putting it back on.
Thx for sharing, I'll grease both up proper
|July 11th, 2019 15:51|
Just for other lurkers I repacked the rear tie rod bearings by removing the rubber boot and inserting wheel bearing grease. Don't believe this is a maintenance item in the BGB but think its good practice to do. Pics below.
Obviously, if the rose joint is worn from lack of grease it will need replacement. The re-packing with grease will reduce wear and its life expectancy.
|July 11th, 2019 01:29|
Sleeved the rear tie rod bearing
|July 7th, 2019 22:46|
Just checking in, it's been over a year, life happened... back on it again. Replaced all exhaust side shims and one on the intake. All oils seals done, everything on top is ticked.
Started turbo installation.
Will update regularly here on. Cheers guys
|January 2nd, 2018 02:55|
Finally got back to work yesterday, took on the alternator overhaul
This red piece of rubber took all day to source in some dumpyard, doesn't do much in there but if its missing, it aren't right.
Replaced both bearings, the rest of it checked out fine.
|December 8th, 2017 05:17|
Paluce, benckj, Ajh23, thx guys. I got the emAil subscription wrong so sorry for the late reply.
Benckj, i had done the entire timing belt section a couple years ago with the exception of cam seals, idler pulley 2 and WP, replacing cam seals coz I pulled the cams and pulley now, the water pump is still looking very good so leaving it there.
Ajh23, mostly wd40, diesel with 600 grit scotch brite and brass brush, finally cleaned it with paint thinner/reducer to make it ready for high heat paint. Yet to paint.
Haven't made any progress the last 10 days, was traveling but am done with the valve seals and torqued the cams back up.
The 2 exhaust valves that had carbon built up I sat with for 4 hours, created a longer flexible stem to hold the valves, dropped the pistons by an inch or so to allow some room and lapped the valves mostly by rotation. Coz I used the inspection cam, I could see the progress, let some wd40 drop through the top of stem, could see it travel into the head and in between the seats. Physically felt both valves smoothen out gradually. I'd lightly oiled the rope, the carbon stuck to it and was pulled with. I'm guessing I would've found some success in bringing these valves back into spec wrt clearances and seating them better.
Will get to work this weekend and post up guys, thx n cheers.
|November 17th, 2017 19:26|
Benckj, great posts, thanks!
What did u use to clean the engine block before painting? Ditto for transmission?
|November 17th, 2017 12:43|
Good work and nice pics to document process. Did you replace any front end parts like cam belt, bearings and WP?
|November 17th, 2017 07:00|
|Paluce||Great post! Thanks for sharing. Yes - Long live the 3sgte (or 5sgte?s and mr2oc!|
|November 17th, 2017 03:59|
Coming along nicely
|November 16th, 2017 03:22|
Pushed an inspection cam through the exhaust manifold, think I got a peep into 6 of them, looking good with the exception of one
^ The leaking one and the single reason I decided to do the seals, am glad I did coz they done their time in there, had hardened up significantly.
Should be done with the stem seals & clearances this weekend to start turbo installation.
The Teins arrived a few days ago, revalved and looking new.
Long live the 3sgte, amongst man's finest creations !
|November 16th, 2017 02:24|
Intake valves look pretty
Gave the intake a good clean
Loving this job of adjusting clearances and stem seals, very engaging and clean work
All the tools you'll ever need to get in and out if the stem seals job -
- Parallel type grip scissors
- A piece of pipe to protect the stem
- I made a pcs socket but a 16 or 17 mm spark plug socket works a charm
- Some plastic between the spring and socket to turn in the keeoers
- I also used a 10mm socket to press the seals, it's id grips the seal lip od perfectly, so there's no room for the seal to not seat straight
|November 16th, 2017 02:23|
The mating surface of the cat with elbow didn't look too good, gave it a good scrub
Gotta prepare for the cam shaft
Cylinder 1 running rich on my last 600ks highway run, leaking intake manifold
Leak on the TVIS
|November 16th, 2017 02:14|
25+ years duration service & a good look all around the 3sgte
I was missing that time when FB was not an available medium and forums were our primary platform for sharing information.
In that spirit and coz this is work I'd like to refer back to I'm starting this thread.
Over the last 3 years, both sides of the engine were thoroughly visited. Had installed the lsd tranny and clutch a couple of years ago with all new seal on that side, serviced the entire timing belt section and oil pump shortly after.
Taking from there, I'm on to the front, top and rear now to complete the sphere around the engine.
Since compression across all 4 cylinders is as good as factory and valve clearances look good, I'm not lifting the head.
Plan for this round of work -
- Fresh turbo
- Suspension with revalving those track stiff Teins
- Valve clearances with stem seals
- A/C and heater core
- Basic body facelift
I'll.post up progress so far -
Vertical and horizontal plays seemed within specs but pretty sure it's seals were beginning to piss
The downpipes are in good nick, was considering the Berk dp but didn't see enough worth in it considering I'm sticking to the stock setup with the exception of the Phoenix Intercooler.
Fresh tie rod bearings
New ball joints all around
Hfh looked pretty good but its gotta go
It's pipe needs some restoring, Toyota doesn't make new ones anymore
Gave the block a good elbow, ready for paint
Thats the 11th shipment of parts