AEM 30-1120 W/4th gen 3sgte - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2019, 12:33 Thread Starter
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AEM 30-1120 W/4th gen 3sgte

I am tired of my car sitting and i'm getting disenchanted at the idea of k series swapping my mr2. I kept various 3sgte related parts from the car (2nd gen 3sgte engine harness, alt bracket and alt.,a/c tensioner and AEM 30-1120 EMS).I'm thinking about buying a 4th gen 3s. My question is whether the AEM for 2nd gen will work on the 4th gen without a cdi. There are spare coil drivers on the ecu and the documentation says 5v rise ignition but there doesn't seem to be any actual reference to someone setting up and wiring it on the net.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old July 23rd, 2019, 11:49
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Gen 4 coils have built-in igniters, they don't use/need a CDI box.

You would give the coils a ground and +12V, then the +5V signal goes to the "coil driver" on the EMS. There's sometimes another pin on the coils that is a feedback signal for misfire detection - you don't need this on an aftermarket EMS.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old July 23rd, 2019, 12:09 Thread Starter
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thx for the reply. i have a little of a hacked 4th gen harness. i plan to add the coil wiring to the 2nd harness and run off the dist. and igniter wiring and use the 2nd gen alt and fuse box wiring.

Last edited by christo4_99; July 23rd, 2019 at 12:17.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old July 23rd, 2019, 13:38
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The only thing you need from the dist/igniter wiring is at least a 15 A 12V feed and a good ground. The you’ll have to run the crank signal to the gen 4 crank position sensor. Not sure on the details of the EMS (is it a series 2?), but I’d think the easiest thing to do would be to get a 12 tooth crank trigger and single cam trigger. That’s AEMs preferred trigger pattern and works well on the series 1 and series 2 EMS.

You could run the coils sequentially then. If you only have a crank signal they’d have to be run in batch fire mode.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old July 24th, 2019, 23:48 Thread Starter
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atm what i'm worried about is the fact that the documentation shows spare coil outputs 1,2,3 and 5 but there is no indication of 4 except for pinout description where it reads Pin# 2A "Avail,switch input, When Coil4 is not used"... seems like is should wire the coils 1,2,3 and 5. Any clue why they would not indicate a coil 4 output but mention it in the documentation? Does that mean use A2 which is designated as TDC should be used as coil 4 driver? confused.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old August 3rd, 2019, 01:14
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It wouldn't be the end of the world to run the coilpacks in batch fire mode. I'm pretty sure each driver should be able to still trigger two coils since the current demands should be roughly the same (just pulling up the leg of a transistor).

But I think what the documentation is saying is that you can use the coil 4 output as either a switched output, or can use it to trigger a coil. It'd either be a software change or a hardware jumper you'd have to move.

I'd curious if the AEM can read the stock 4th gen trigger wheel, or if it'd want a different trigger wheel arrangement.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old August 3rd, 2019, 09:14 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DefSport View Post
It wouldn't be the end of the world to run the coilpacks in batch fire mode. I'm pretty sure each driver should be able to still trigger two coils since the current demands should be roughly the same (just pulling up the leg of a transistor).

But I think what the documentation is saying is that you can use the coil 4 output as either a switched output, or can use it to trigger a coil. It'd either be a software change or a hardware jumper you'd have to move.

I'd curious if the AEM can read the stock 4th gen trigger wheel, or if it'd want a different trigger wheel arrangement.
There is no documentaion on the 30-1120 that I can easily find that points me to a jumper change. I made the harness for sequential fire. I've been gradually creating my base calibration as i get new information. The AEM crank/cam wizard has provisions for a 36-2 crank sensor from a later model 2jz so i'm using it. Here is the writeup i found for honda aem v1 which is semi-applicable to this situation all because the motherboard of the 2 ecus is the same:


Assuming you have a 1040 not (4010) and a CDI not (CID), you will need to change the JPT1 and JPT2 jumper settings to the 1-2 position inside the EMS. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU'RE NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE EMS. Find someone who is capable of this task, or call AEM tech line for further assistance.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS IF AND ONLY IF YOU'RE USING THE 30-1040

1) Change the JPT1 and JPT2 jumper settings to the 1-2 position inside the EMS

2) Wire coil 1 (pin A21) to cylinder 1
Wire coil 2 (pin B6) to cylinder 2
Wire coil 3 (pin B3) to cylinder 3
Wire coil 5 (pin B4) to cylinder 4 (Coil 4 is not available on 30-1040)

***If you're using a Twinfire, switch #2 needs to be OFF and switch #3 needs to be ON***

3) In the Cam/Crank wizard, select EPM.
Download the updated wizard if you do not have it....... http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...ic,9156.0.html



4) Go to Option > Coils and make Coil 1, 2, 3 and 5 active.

5) Go to Ignition > Advanced Ignition > Ignition Phasing > Option and make the following changes to ignition tooth #1, 2, 3 and 5.



***Your ignition sync value will not be the same because that value will change when you sync the timing***

6) Go to Ignition > Advanced Ignition >Coil Dwell Setup > Coil Dwell Wizard
select the coils you're using or select All CDI except Ford if you're using an ignition box

7) Go to Configure > ECU Setup > Set Ignition.......SYNC YOUR TIMING WITH YOUR INJECTORS OFF!!!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3rjynfl0cx...ng-30-1040.pdf

These settings will work based off of AEM's base calibration, use at your own risk. AEM will not be responsible for any damage to your engine and/or EMS by using these settings.

Guys, I'll try to help as much as possible, this information was send to me from someone that had the CDI running on his 93+ turbo, for the 91-92 it might be a bit different. (whatever you do to your car is at your own risk. I'm not responssible for damages)

1) Updte your AEM with the most recent firmware (1.11)

2) Disconnect the battery.

3) Install the CDI, and coils by their instrucitons. (DO NOT INSTALL THE HARNESS TO THE CDI YET!) It needs to be wire up to the proper pin outs first.

4) Wire up the CDI Harness to the proper coil driver pin outs on the EMS, this is for a 93-95 EMS.

IGN#1 WHITE= A20

IGN#2 GREEN = A19

IGN#3 YELLOW = A18

IGN#4 VIOLET = A21

5)Wire up the CDI HARNESS to the proper coil terminals. (MAKE SURE to put them on the proper coil or you will fry your CDI)

TAN + 540V-Connects to the positive (+) Terminal on coils 1&3.

PINK + 540V-Connects to the positive (+) Terminal on coils 2&4.

BROWN Coil 1 Out-Connects to the Negative (-) Terminal on Coil 1.

ORANGE Coil 2 Out-Connects to the negative (-) terminal on Coil 2.

BLUE Coil 3 Out-Connects to the negative (-) terminal on Coil 3.

GRAY Coil 4 Out-Connects to the negative (-) terminal on Coil 1.

6) Set CDI Switches S1-Up, S2-Down, S3-Down

7) TRIPLE CHECK ALL WIRING

8) Install ALL Ignition components ( plug wires, Spark plugs coil wires, etc..)

9) Plug in EMS, and CDI Harness to CDI

10) Connect Battery

11) Turn the Key to ON position (DO NOT START)

12) Check for smoke if properly wired, there should be nothing smoking

13) Upload the proper Start-Up Calibration to EMS

14) Set Up calibration for Direct fire using this instrutions:

a) Change Spark teeth from 6 to 24

b) Set Ignition Phasing (IGN tooth #1 = 21.50, IGN tooth #2 = 15.50, IGN tooth #3 = 3.50, IGN tooth #5 = 9.5)

c) Turn coils ACTIVE (Coil #1, #2, #3, #5)

d) Open Coil Dwell wizard and change it from "Toyota Coil to ALL CDI SYSTEMS"

15) SAVE calibration

16) Set TPS sensor

17) Sync Timing

DONE DEAL! NOW you are ready to enjoy your new direct fire set up.

Last edited by christo4_99; August 3rd, 2019 at 09:18. Reason: forgot to mention the 36-2 crank sensor
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