AEM/1ZZ COP installation, with 12 tooth trigger wheel - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 09:05 Thread Starter
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AEM/1ZZ COP installation, with 12 tooth trigger wheel

Over the weekend I took the time to finally install this on my personal car. I've had a few phone calls about the actually trigger wheel installation, one of which I was told that it wasn't possible to sync the AEM with a trigger wheel.

Here is a detailed write up of the installation for anyone else installing it on their car. I did run into a few problems that I could not find answers to on the board. The first part of the write up will be just the coils and getting to function with them. The second part is installing the trigger wheel with the AEM. All in all the installation was fairly straight forward.

This is the kit we sell, its the standard kit without the cam sensor


Here is my setup with the MSD ignition and OEM plug wires, cap, and rotor.




Here is the adapter plate, we use a clinching stud to hold the coils on and the plate bolts to the head in the valve cover holes.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 09:15 Thread Starter
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All of the coils installed and ready to wire into the EMS.


I use the factory 1zz wiring harness, and cut off the plastic cover. Then wire the 12+ together, wire the grounds together, and the IGF together. The IG trigger wires go to the following pins on the AEM:

18A: Coil 3
19A: Coil 2
20A: Coil 1
21A: Coil 5 (coil 4, but AEM calls it coil 5)

For reference if your looking at the 1zz coil, from left to right the pins are:

pin 1: Ground
pin 2: IGT (ignition trigger)
pin 3: IGF (ignition feed back) Not used.
pin 4: 12v+

The AEM settings are as follows:

You must activate all the coils:
Options-->coil
active coils: 1,2,3 and 5

Change the ignition to coils:
Ignition-->advanced ignition-->coil dwell setup-->coil dwell wizard
select: Toyota (04-up) tC/xB/xA/Prius/Echo coils

Setup the proper phasing for the coils:
Ignition-->advanced ignition-->ignition phasing-->options ign phasing
Use the following settings: (For use without trigger wheel)
Ignition sync: 0.43
Ignition tooth 1: 9.5
Ignition tooth 2: 3.5
Ignition tooth 3: 15.5
Ignition tooth 5: 21.5

Now you need to change the cam/crank sensor settings:
setup-->cam/crank sensors-->adv cam/crank-->advanced pickups
Fuel teeth: 24
Spark teeth: 24
Ign range: 3

This will get the coils running use the stock cam and crank sensors inside the distributor. The phasing for my car switched when I went to a 12 tooth trigger wheel on the crank. Which I will post again later.

To get your tach working you will need to wire into a Low side input on the AEM. I used LS #7, you need to remember the output you will use it correlates to a number in the AEM manual that will need to be used later.

For the AEM you need to go to:
setup-->advanced setup-->tacho/speedo control-->options tach speedo
Tacho: 4 (this is also directly affected by the trigger wheel your using)
Tacho output: 2 (this is number is specifically for the LS output you select)

More info on tach setup
The tacho number is calculated using the following formula:
Tacho = Crank Teeth / (Required Output Pulses/Rev x 2)

Tacho output table for LS output:
LS#3 = 128
LS#12 = 64
LS#11 = 32
LS#10 = 16
LS#9 = 8
LS#8 = 4
LS#7 = 2
LS#4 = 1

I used our prototype tach adapter it looks like this:


Here is our tach adapter still being finished up at the moment:

Last edited by racerx1715; July 26th, 2011 at 09:19.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 09:29 Thread Starter
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The above information will get your setup working without using a crank trigger wheel. We will be using a 12 tooth trigger wheel.

Remove your passenger side wheel, after the car has been properly raised and supported.


Now you can see the crank pulley, we will be using the two bolt holes on the crank pulley to secure our adapter bracket.


Bolt up the adapter bracket:


Install the trigger wheel, do not tighten the bolts yet. Remove the two lower oil pump bolts and install your trigger wheel sensor/bracket. Our bracket and sensor is fixed so there is no adjustment of the sensor.

You will need to take cylinder 1 to TDC and set one of the teeth on the trigger wheel to the rising edge to the center of the sensor. Once you have done that use a .04 feeler gauge and place it between the teeth on the wheel and the sensor. This will properly gap the wheel from the sensor. Be sure to turn the crank by hand and look for proper clearance, after tightening.

You should now have this:


Now we will move on to wiring the sensor, and setting up the AEM again.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 09:46 Thread Starter
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The sensor we use for our kit will work with the 12 tooth trigger wheel. Any higher than that and I suggest using a cherry hall sensor, which we also sell with the kit if selected.

For the Honeywell/microswitch 1GT101DC the wiring is the following:
Red: 12v+switched
White: signal
Black: ground

The signal will need to be wired into the AEM crank sensor which is pin 4A

You will be changing from the OEM magnatic sensor to a hall sensor so you will have to perform a jumper change on the AEM EMS board itself inside the box. The jumper your looking for is JPT 1, this is the crank sensor setting.



Its hard to tell from the pic, but I'm pointing at the jumper that needs to be changed.


Once this jumper is changed you should do the following after reinstalling the AEM.
setup-->sensors-->cam/crank sensor-->cam/crank input setup-->mag pickups-->options

Change:
Crank H sens below: 0
Crank L sens above: 0

You will also need to change the ignition phasing values again:
ignition-->advanced ignition-->ignition phasing-->options ignition phasing
ign tooth 1: 21.50
ign tooth 2: 15.50
ign tooth 3: 3.50
ign tooth 5: 9.50

You should now have most of this done, and when your cranking your car you should see that its syncing properly. Which will occur on sync tooth #23.
Make sure you check your timing with a timing light when completed with the installation and verify the settings in your AEM.

This is how the setup looks mostly wired in:


I then saw this odd cap that was of no further use:


So I made this, which we will now sell for those that are interested.


Last edited by racerx1715; July 26th, 2011 at 10:09.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 09:50 Thread Starter
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Finally everything I took out of the old ignition system:


Initial impressions, car idles much better, driving feels great; no complaints here.

Last edited by racerx1715; July 26th, 2011 at 11:49.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 10:37
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Nice!

BTW, what are you going to ask for the distributor cap replacement cover?
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 10:39 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5sfect20b
Nice!

BTW, what are you going to ask for the distributor cap replacement cover?
Thanks!
$75 plus shipping.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 10:50
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Thanks. Any news on the tach adapter?

What will the finished product look like, and how does it wire into the system?
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 11:06
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Love your kit, everything is thought out. One detail that may add the final touch, have all the coils orientated in the same direction. Make it look extra neat.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 11:12 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blurvision
Love your kit, everything is thought out. One detail that may add the final touch, have all the coils orientated in the same direction. Make it look extra neat.
When we were designing the kit I was trying to have the coil orientation the same for all of them, but it seemed that something was always in the way for one of the coils so we ended up with this.
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 11:26
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The jumper that needs changing does that just slide to a different position? Great writeup.

I currently have the 1zz coil kit/plate and everything installed great, cant wait to finish the kit off eventually!

So for the tach adapter I will have to put 1 wire into some pin on my ecu(ls#7) then power/ground?

mr2 madness in action.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 11:48 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5sfect20b
Thanks. Any news on the tach adapter?

What will the finished product look like, and how does it wire into the system?
We are waiting for the conformal coating on the tach adapters. Other than that the tach is simple to wire in, 12v+, ground, signal from the AEM and tach wire to the igniter.

The board will have a clear heat shrink with flying leads and is meant to go through all kinds of weather.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicboom141
The jumper that needs changing does that just slide to a different position? Great writeup.

I currently have the 1zz coil kit/plate and everything installed great, cant wait to finish the kit off eventually!

So for the tach adapter I will have to put 1 wire into some pin on my ecu(ls#7) then power/ground?
Yes, you can use any low side output. I chose number 7.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 13:00
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Another question. What plugs are you running now, and what gap?
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 13:12 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5sfect20b
Another question. What plugs are you running now, and what gap?
Standard NGK plugs 6097, I believe they changed the number though. With .028 gap.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 13:47
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Is this running wasted spark? are you somehow using the stock cam position sensor to detect TDC??
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 14:32 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l0ch0w
Is this running wasted spark? are you somehow using the stock cam position sensor to detect TDC??
TDC, and primary timing is via the crank trigger wheel on the crank. OEM cam is for reference and syncing now.

Spark on the compression stroke, so non wasted spark.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 14:43
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Damn rhis is nice... Good work man.
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 15:21
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I like the work, I really do, but I thing I don't get:
Quote:
Originally Posted by l0ch0w
Is this running wasted spark? are you somehow using the stock cam position sensor to detect TDC??
Quote:
Originally Posted by racerx1715
TDC, and primary timing is via the crank trigger wheel on the crank. OEM cam is for reference and syncing now.

Spark on the compression stroke, so non wasted spark.
If you don't have any indicator of cam position - at least once every time the engine is started - how could you possibly run 4 COPs?

What am I missing?
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 15:52 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeV
I like the work, I really do, but I thing I don't get:



If you don't have any indicator of cam position - at least once every time the engine is started - how could you possibly run 4 COPs?

What am I missing?
No problem. I have had quite a few questions about this. It does work and works exactly how you explained. I'm still using the OEM cam sensor, the jumper on the AEM JPT2 is still using the magnetic sensor. I changed the jumper on the AEM for the crank signal JPT1. The two still work together and must sync on the AEM for it to begin to send fuel and ignition signals. I have a video of the car running with all hardware installed I'll post it as soon as it finishes downloading.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old July 26th, 2011, 16:00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerx1715
No problem. I have had quite a few questions about this. It does work and works exactly how you explained. I'm still using the OEM cam sensor, the jumper on the AEM JPT2 is still using the magnetic sensor. I changed the jumper on the AEM for the crank signal JPT1. The two still work together and must sync on the AEM for it to begin to send fuel and ignition signals. I have a video of the car running with all hardware installed I'll post it as soon as it finishes downloading.
Ah. Hence the aluminum distro cover instead of the delete bits. Got it.
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