Overheating when at a stop - Page 5 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #81 of 117 (permalink) Old January 3rd, 2019, 20:23 Thread Starter
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Finishing up

I did some more draining of the coolant today. Jacked the rear up again and used my garden hose to run water down to the front from both left and right. I did this until the water up front was clear. It took a while but in the end no more green coolant was present in my pan.

I also took the time to flush out the coolant present in the heater core. This part was a little messy but I got a lot of green coolant out of there as well. I stopped once it was nothing but water coming out.

I tried looking for the engine drain plug but I still could not find it. So I'm just going to install the new rad and hoses and run the car on distilled water until I can get water into the block and force the green stuff back out the front. I also kind of feel like taking the garden hose and pushing water through the thermostat housing with hopes that the remaining coolant will come out water neck. But idk yet.

Also took the time to scrub away most of the dirt and smudge present where the radiator lives. Managed to get a lot of it off. Wish I would have taken a before and after picture. Almost looks new again thanks to some good ole Dawn soap haha.
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post #82 of 117 (permalink) Old January 4th, 2019, 18:17 Thread Starter
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All parts have arrived!!

Finally the hoses arrived today! Here they are.
I will hopefully finish the car up tomorrow if no unexpected issues make their presence.
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post #83 of 117 (permalink) Old January 4th, 2019, 18:25 Thread Starter
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Some complaints

It really makes me mad how none of the companies that produce hose kits for the car sell the S shaped hose that goes from the radiator cap to the water neck. This hose ripped on me a couple of years back and I could not source it anywhere. I asked around the forums and it seemed that nobody had a solution to this. It is also very hard for me to believe that the S shaped hose has never ripped on anybody else.

So either you guys have truly never ripped this hose or you guys simply sell the car before it rips haha.
Since I could not source the hose anywhere including the dealership I ended up making a custom hose from a random autozone hose. The fit is not 100% but it is very close. I'm going to try calling the company and see if I can ship them my S hose and have them send me back a silicone version of it. If not, I will just continue to use my custom hose. I've been using it for the past 2 years.

This is the stupid hose I'm talking about. . .
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post #84 of 117 (permalink) Old January 6th, 2019, 01:39 Thread Starter
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Final Steps!

At last!! all hoses are on and the radiator is installed. I ended up going with no AC condenser.
Tomorrow morning I will begin adding coolant to the system. Well first I'm going to add water just to make sure I have no more green stuff in the car but you get the picture.

Let me just say F$^$ !!!!!! those two hoses under the front cabin of the car were a pain in the ass to remove! All the other hoses were moderately simple since I had done them before. But the two up front right under the center console or cabin were such a pain. It took me about 4 hours and thats me rounding down the time. There was absolutely no clearance for almost anything. I ended up sticking a sharp blade and slicing at the neck of the hose until I could twist and break lose. Was not easy but it worked.

The hard stuff is over now and tomorrow it'll be nothing but adding water/coolant/bleeding air out of the system.

I hope . . .
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post #85 of 117 (permalink) Old January 6th, 2019, 01:52 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benckj View Post
Just be warned those aftermarket radiators are not a direct replacement. Often the mounts are in the wrong place, bleed nipple missing and inlet outlet set to turbo position (wider apart). Nothing that canít be dealt with but may take a little fab time.
Just wanted to get back to you and let you know that there was some modifications that had to be made. The radiator and fans fit perfect and everything mounted and bolted down where it should. Even installing onto the car was fine.

However, up top I had to slightly fold the one of the side taps upward in order to clear the big ass bleed valve cap that mishimoto provides. Also I chose to grind down the bottom tap on the hood latch assembly just because it kind of sat upward due to interference with the fan assembly.
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post #86 of 117 (permalink) Old January 6th, 2019, 23:45 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by merryfrankster View Post
Let me give you a little tip. Do the initial fill and pressure test followed by functional test of your system with distilled water (about $2/gal at the drugstore). Switch over to coolant when you're done monkeying with the system. This will save you from wasting a lot of coolant.
So I tried what you said. I was confident that no green coolant was present in any of the hoses, pipes, radiator, or heater core. But I knew that since I never drained the engine I probably had green stuff in there still. You may not agree with what I did but here it is. To remove the green stuff out of the block I removed my thermostat. I began filling the system with distilled water. At around 2.5 gallons the system would take no more which was fine by me since I was just trying to flush out the green. Then I started her up for about 30 seconds to allow for the water/green stuff to flow since there was no thermostat present. After that I opened the drain plug at the radiator and let it drain. There was indeed green stuff coming out. It was a strong green at first but after about 5 engine cranks and shut offs The only thing coming out of the radiator was clear distilled water.

Now I am 10000% confident that the green stuff is out. However my question to you is this. Aren't I in the same situation as before? Only this time the difference is that rather than having green coolant in the block, I now have distilled water in the block. I began adding the new pink coolant and at around a little under 3 gallons the system no longer takes any more. My guess is that its because the other gallon or so is the distilled water that was present. Any recommendations? I still have a little bit of coolant left in the 3rd coolant bottle and I have yet to open the 4th and final bottle. So I know for a fact I still need much more to go. It just won't take any more.

Below is a picture of the stuff I got out of the radiator after the first start up with distilled water.
The second picture is after the fourth start up. So you can picture how clear the water was by the last start up.
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post #87 of 117 (permalink) Old January 7th, 2019, 02:24
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It’s fine having some water in the block at fill time. Ussually concentrate is added so you simply reduce the water added. Take it you have used Toyota premix?

Fun car a few times and check coolant each morning before start up. Helps if rear is raised slightly when parked up. Adding a cup or two each time for a week is expected. Make sure overflow is cleaned out then topped up. Best to keep cabin heater on full hot to aid core fill up.
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post #88 of 117 (permalink) Old January 7th, 2019, 14:39 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by benckj View Post
Itís fine having some water in the block at fill time. Ussually concentrate is added so you simply reduce the water added. Take it you have used Toyota premix?

Fun car a few times and check coolant each morning before start up. Helps if rear is raised slightly when parked up. Adding a cup or two each time for a week is expected. Make sure overflow is cleaned out then topped up. Best to keep cabin heater on full hot to aid core fill up.

Correct, I'm using the Toyota prediluted coolant. Thats the only reason why I was worried about the water in the block.
Cool, I figured I would have to be adding coolant throughout these next weeks. I'm probably going to reopen the bleed valves today and see if I can get any more air out although most of it is gone. I drove the car around with the radiator cap on 1 click but I'm not happy with where the temperature gauge is sitting. So I have to keep bleeding.

As for overflow tank. I've never actually cleaned it out before. Do you drop it from below the car or do you pull it from above in order to clean it out? I can empty it from up top but cleaning it will be hard.
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post #89 of 117 (permalink) Old January 7th, 2019, 16:55
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The only way I cleaned out the tank was to simply poke a garden hose into it and flush out old fluid. Surprising how nasty it looks as its not something you would normally view.

BTW I would not drive around with rad cap on one click. The rad needs to build up pressure to work properly. You may be allowing air to enter system if you leave cap in this position when cooling down.
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post #90 of 117 (permalink) Old January 7th, 2019, 19:21 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by benckj View Post
The only way I cleaned out the tank was to simply poke a garden hose into it and flush out old fluid. Surprising how nasty it looks as its not something you would normally view.

BTW I would not drive around with rad cap on one click. The rad needs to build up pressure to work properly. You may be allowing air to enter system if you leave cap in this position when cooling down.

Okay so my temp gauge finally settled and is back to acting the way it would. Reading slightly below the center or reading at the center.

First comments: The car is still not taking anymore coolant. I have yet to open the 4th bottle of coolant and this does not seem normal to me. Usually I use all 3 bottles and a little under half of the 4th bottle. I still think its because of the distilled water that remains in the block. Only downside is my coolant was already prediluted and says to not add water. /: So that distilled water that remains is probably not good. Maybe I should drain about a gallon or so of coolant and hope that distilled water mix drains with it too haha.

Second comment: Drove the car for 30 minutes around the city with radiator cap completely on and drove it pretty hard. The temp gauge remained where it should. Pulled over a couple of times to touch the hoses, radiator, and engine. They felt good and not boiling hot. The real test will be once I go back into the canyon because normally my car would not overheat during city drives.

Third comment: The new fans are very impressive. When the car got up to temperature and things began getting warmer the low speed fans came on and stayed on for a good amount of time. My guess would be like a minute and a half or 2 minutes. My previous fans never stayed on that long when in low speed! They would stay on 15 seconds max.

Last comment: I've been checking for leaks every time I pull over or any time I park it. So far so good. I will be driving it some more tonight locally and each time I put it away I will leave the rear up as you recommended. Hopefully I can get to adding more coolant. Right now my biggest concern is that I haven't even opened the fourth bottle of coolant. This has never happened to me and does not seem normal.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions and thank you for the help so far!
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post #91 of 117 (permalink) Old January 7th, 2019, 19:44
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Glad its working out for you. I really wouldn't worry too much about adding the extra coolant unless you get down below -10C for long lengths of time. Just make sure you top up the overflow bottle and system should look after itself once most air is extracted.
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post #92 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 11:50 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by benckj View Post
Glad its working out for you. I really wouldn't worry too much about adding the extra coolant unless you get down below -10C for long lengths of time. Just make sure you top up the overflow bottle and system should look after itself once most air is extracted.
Thanks for the advice!
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post #93 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 11:58 Thread Starter
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Update Again

Sup ya'll,

Yesterday was my first time driving the car back out on the roads and not just around the block. I did not take my eyes off the gauge one bit. The gauge stayed at the center the entire time which made me happy. It didn't drop or rise like before. Also I came to a few stops and popped the frunk just to inspect the fans. I never heard my high speed fans come on but my low speed fans did come on several times. The difference now is that they came on and stayed on for about 2 minutes each time they came on. My old fans never stayed on longer than 10 seconds. So this is a big sign to me that things may be better now. I even drove my scion around to compare how the fans worked on it. They work real similar to my new MR2 fans. They stay on for about 2 minutes. Like I said, my old fans never did this.

Today, or I should say in an hour or so. I will be taking her out to the same local canyon drive and driving her in and out. In the last couple of months anytime I went into the canyon I overheated once I came to a stop. So this will be the real test. If this works, I will also be going on a similar drive where I also overheated a few months ago after getting off a freeway exit. Fingers crossed!!!!
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post #94 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 15:17 Thread Starter
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Bad News

So I just got back from the drive. The car was on for about an hour and 10 minutes throughout this entire test.

I let the car sit at idle for about 10 minutes in the driveway. Then I drove her down the highway to get her at operating temperature and what not. After coming off the highway I decided it was time to hit the canyon. So I drove into the canyon and drove her as I always do. I came to end of the canyon and made the same U turn that I did last time in order to pull over on the side of the road. I waited there with the car on as I did last time. The previous time the gauge began rising at this stop after about 10 minutes. This time the gauge did not rise and I even waited an entire 15 minutes. While waiting at idle I realized my stupid overflow cap was popped off and there was a mess of coolant. I probably didn't close it right or forgot to close it. Whoops

But anyways, I closed it up and I proceeded back into the canyon to head back home. At one point towards the end of the canyon(I was going about 60 mph), I saw my gauge go slightly above the half. So I thought damn it not again!!! But it immediately went back down. I kept driving and soon after that I had to come to a stop at the end of the canyon due to some cement trucks crossing. I was waiting at idle for about 3 minutes and was watching the gauge like a hawk. Again, it rose very slightly above the half and dropped. Mind you, I was not moving so the only airflow was coming from the fans. I finally got to move and AT THE VERY END of the canyon my gauge started climbing like it used to. I was going about 60 mph so there was plenty of airflow. It just would not go down and so I decided to pull over.

Before shutting off the engine I went up front. The fans were on and stayed on unlike my previous fans. So then I went and felt the hoses in the engine bay. They felt normal hot. Even the engine itself felt normal. Yea it was hot but not hot enough to where I can't keep my hand on it.
I then went back up front and heard my high fans kick which is expected after a long drive. I went back into the car to shut it off but I noticed the gauge was dropping. So I thought to myself WHAT IN THE WORLD IS HAPPENING?!?!?!?

I said screw it! I'm going to keep going. So I chose not to shut the engine off and went on with my drive. I got to the regular roads and sat through stop lights and stop signs. The gauge would occasionally rise very very slightly but would go right back down. So I got home and let the car sit at idle for about 10 minutes. Nothing happened. The car was even reading slightly below the half mark. So I shut the car off and I must say, I am extremely frustrated at this point.
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post #95 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 15:48 Thread Starter
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Analysis

The car seemed to be correcting itself. Anytime the gauge rose even slightly it would go back to normal. It only climbed high once and so I pulled over. But sitting at idle made it go back to normal.

My thoughts:

I'm not upset about buying new fans because they are working better and very different than my old ones. So it is very possible that the fans were one of the issues. After thinking about this I've thought of another possible reason for my issue. It is something that I never thought of too much but now I do believe it may be a possibility. The gauge always fluctuates during my drives. Recall that when I purchased the car the gauge did not work. So I replaced the coolant temperature switch and my gauge began reading. It ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS read at the center. Months before my overheating issue began, I noticed the gauge would read lower than half when I drove. If I was moving at a higher speed my gauge would drop below half. But If I drove at a lower speed or at a stop the gauge would read at the half. This really bothered me but I couldn't figure out why although I did suspect the thermostat was stuck open. I thought maybe it could also be because it was colder out.

So then after about 4 months of dealing with a fluctuating gauge my my "overheating" issue began. This is why one of the first things that I did was change the thermostat. I had already suspected my fluctuating gauge was because the thermostat was stuck open. However, a car overheating is never due to a thermostat stuck open but rather a thermostat stuck closed. So I tested the old thermostat side by side with the new one. The old one was open from the very start. So I knew it was stuck open. I popped the new one in but even then my temp gauge would still drop below half when at high speeds and go back to normal at low speeds. My overheating issue was still happening depending on how far I drove.

So today when it "overheated" again, I went and touched the engine, the hoses, and the radiator. The gauge was almost at the top when I went and did this. But everything I touched felt normal. As I mentioned above, yea it was hot but hot like any car would be and hot like normal. I could keep my hand on any of them for a relatively long time. I've felt an overheating car before and man was it HOT! Within 2 seconds I had to take my hand off. Also the bubbling noise from coolant or water boiling is usually common when a car is really overheating. My car has none of these signs even when the gauge is seconds away from hitting the red at the top.

This is why I'm thinking maybe my car is really not overheating and it is just my stupid gauge that is having issues. This could have also been the reason why my old fans never came on when my car "overheated" the last time. It could simply be that they were not on because the temp was really not where my gauge says it is. And it is possible that my new fans kicking on when my gauge is reading high is just a coincidence. I say this because fans come on and off regardless. So maybe they just so happened to be on when the gauge was reading high? I think its important for me to note that ever since I've owned the car, the little purple sensor that plugs into the temp gauge switch has been in poor conditions. For one, the purple plastic is almost completely melted and two, the thin wire is literally hanging by a thread. I have always feared that the wiring would break on me but it hasn't.

Could it be that the poor little sensor plug is finally on it's last breath and as a result I am having a fluctuating temperature gauge? Because if my car is really "overheating" then it should not go back to reading below the half mark if in fact the gauge climbing high was due too high coolant or engine temperatures. There is no way that it could just cool down that much within seconds regardless of how good the fans or radiator are. The physics behind that makes zero sense. But I guess the only way to find out is to install and electrical temperature gauge right?

As always, all feedback is appreciated to anybody still reading this.

Last edited by MR2ManiacJC; January 8th, 2019 at 15:57.
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post #96 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 16:37
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Yep sounds like a sensitive gauge & possibly sensor. You have also watched like a hawk so are probably a bit paranoid about engine temps. You should buy one of those cheapy laser temp guns to use when diagnosing engine symptoms. Would do a lot for your sanity as confirming if engine, rad and associated parts are above normal temp range.
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post #97 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 16:40
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It would have been a good idea to refill your coolant after you found the cap off. You don't know how much of it you blew, and that would explain the erratic temperature readings.
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post #98 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 19:39 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by benckj View Post
Yep sounds like a sensitive gauge & possibly sensor. You have also watched like a hawk so are probably a bit paranoid about engine temps. You should buy one of those cheapy laser temp guns to use when diagnosing engine symptoms. Would do a lot for your sanity as confirming if engine, rad and associated parts are above normal temp range.
Yea that's what I'm leaning towards which is a bummer because if this is the issue it could have been a simple fix. The temp switch itself is pretty new though. But about 30 minutes ago I went and bought a new sensor from the local auto parts store. I popped the current one out and put the new one in. The new one was horrible so I popped the current one back in. I did a comparison of the two while I was at it.

The current temp switch: I turned the key all the way without turning the engine on and the gauge read at cold.

The new temp switch: Again I turned the key all the way and the gauge read at hot. This is completely inaccurate because the car has been sitting for hours now and it is pretty cold out. I also felt the coolant with my hands and it is cold so there is no way I'm reading at hot

I never thought I'd say this but I trust the old sensor more so I popped the old one back in and returned the new one.
I'm going to go buy a laser temp gun from home depot and just check what kind of temperature I read around the city first. Do you recommend I point it at the long hose that connects to the water neck? I'm also going to compare it to the hose that enters the thermostat housing since that one will always read colder.
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post #99 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 19:41 Thread Starter
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It would have been a good idea to refill your coolant after you found the cap off. You don't know how much of it you blew, and that would explain the erratic temperature readings.
Yea I tried to but I accidentally forgot my funnel. So I kind of made a mess and didn't bother trying to add more. I ended up topping it off once I got home.
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post #100 of 117 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2019, 21:02
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Point the gun at any part you want to look for abnormal high/low readings. Saves a heap of guesswork and allows real time diagnois of the engine cooling system. The inlet/ outlet radiator pipes are probably the most important as this will tell the differential between engine temp and how well the radiator (plus pump, tstat, etc) are operating.
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