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Unnormal's MK1.5 Build

28K views 87 replies 19 participants last post by  unnormal 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured I should start posting some of my build that I have been working on. I'm going from an 89 SC to 4th Gen 3SGTE, using a 1993 JDM E153 tranny and two SC axles. Desired completion destination Oct 21, 2015. :smile: Yep I'm bringing this 80's car into the 21st century!

I'm looking for constructive criticism, opinions, and more eyes to catch my blunders. :)

This started in Feb when I got the engine and dug the AW11 out of the snow.


Hello
 
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#11 ·
Time to get that battery to the frunk.


Crimped and soldered the connections and used a 125A fuse to protect the 4G wire:

Hmm, here is my thoughts on the fuse:
The 4AWG cable is rated for between 120 and 150 amps max continuous based on the temp rating of the cable insulation and the number of cables packaged together (1 in this case). This is why I chose the 125A fuse, the fuse is to protect the wire in case it overheats, or worse if it somehow comes in contact with the car chassis.

Now the 125A fuse (by Littlefuse Startco) is rated at about 175A for 1000 seconds, about 250A for 10 seconds, about 300A for 5 seconds, and about 450A for 1 second. This is from the chart here:

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/bolt-down-fuses/littelfuse_mega_datasheet.pdf

This fuse should only be used during starting.
Sound legit? or maybe I will need a 150A fuse?

The 15lbs Odyssey PC680 is rated for 520A for 5 seconds, but only 170 CCA. So I might have to swap it out for a traditional 30lbs lead acid battery for the winter. My old Motomaster Eliminator was rated at 570 CCA @ 0 degrees F. :smile:
 
#3 · (Edited)
Flywheel and clutch

Thanks Prime Performance!
Flywheel (11.5lbs):


4th Gen 3SGTE, originally with an AWD auto tranny. Note the top left corner of the black bell housing shield plate. I found out afterward that I need the shield plate that matches to the E153.


Flywheel on with blue locktight and torqued to factory specs, using new bolts from toyota:


New yota throw bearing installed:


New Exedy OEM type clutch:


My clutch alignment tool, 17mm socket:
 
#5 · (Edited)
Block Heater
Yep in the wild prairies of Canada we need electrical heat to warm up the coolant before starting the car on a cold winter's day. Much easier on the engine this way.

Need to get a freeze plug (actually a casting plug) out. This was a pain. Don't let it fall into the block!


Now finding the correct block heater was a mess, there isn't one listed for any 3sgte (even the yota part number for the 91-93 turbo has been discontinued) , this made for a few trips to the parts store. On this engine there is very little space between the freeze plug opening and the cylinder wall. But I think this one should work. Part number 3100098.




I bought 3 different ones that looked like this that were spec'd for 4A, 3S, and 5S motors but none of them would fit.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Carrier Bearing

Need to clean out the mounting holes for the axle carrier bearing and add the locating dowels.



New carrier bearing and dust cover:


New bearing going onto the axle the easy way with a cheap press:


Don't forget to replace this bolt that holds the bearing in place if the rubber tip is broken off. Old (top), new (bottom):


I still need to source some locating brackets. PM me if you have any!
These will do for now I hope:
 
#8 · (Edited)
Water Neck

4th Gen on the left, 3rd Gen on the right. You could use the 4th gen neck, you would just need to add a coolant fill cap to the system somewhere b/c the caldina has the fill cap on the radiator.


Transferred the caldina water temp sensor to the 3rd gen neck and added a MK1 temp sensor to wire directly to my stock water temp gauge. Picked up some electrical connectors from the local pick-n-pull from a tercel and corolla.


Neck installed and MK1 oil pressure sender installed for my stock oil press gauge. I needed to remove a bit of material from one of the water neck mounting nuts to make this pressure sender fit.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Speed Sensor

I decided to convert from electrical to mechanical speedo to match my existing cluster. Maybe I will convert the MK1 cluster to electronic in the future but not now.

Factory electronic speed sensor from 1993 JDM E153:


Interestingly the SC E51 tranny uses much of the same speed senor parts as the turbo E153. The only difference is the gear that runs off the diff because the diffs are different. My plan was to re-use the E51 speed sensor and only purchase the new drive gear (33403-19406) but I couldn't get the sleeve (33404-17010) out of the E51 and I didn't want to break it so I pick up a new sleeve too. The speedo cable 90 degree adapter from the E51 was re-used (far left of picture).


Electric vs Mechanical:
 
#12 ·
Fuse Selection

I do love this build... Makes me want to buy an AW11 just for giggles.

Your fuse selection could work, I was a little skeptical.
Keep a spare onboard just in case. Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind those short transient bursts of high current take their toll on fuses.
 
#16 ·
I do love this build... Makes me want to buy an AW11 just for giggles.

Your fuse selection could work, I was a little skeptical.
Keep a spare onboard just in case. Cheap insurance.
Keep in mind those short transient bursts of high current take their toll on fuses.
Yeah I will be carrying a spare spare fuse and 13mm socket to change it just in case.


Thanks for the comments guys. It's not a pretty looking swap, paint and polishing will come later. I am going for simplicity, function, weight, and reliability right now. I am trying to use as much OEM type parts as possible for highest reliability too.
"Parts left off weigh nothing, cost nothing, and don't cause service problems"
 
#23 ·
Hey, the build is slowly coming along, been working on wiring and fuel while the engine is out. There will be pics when I finish a section.

For axles I am using two SC drivers stub axles and the E153 passenger side carrier axle. The tranny is an E153 LSD from an 93 JDM SW20.

Thanks Fuzzy, your build thread was a lot of help. Let me know next time you bring your car to the city, we should hit up the Castrol road course!

No this isn't from KIJIJI, I have had this car for a few years now.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Finally an update to some of my progress!

Engine Mounts
Custom mounts from the MK1.5 PDF for the left and right sides. Made from 3/16 steel.
If I had to do it again I would definitely just buy the SpeedSource mounts.

Tools to remove factory mounts, the Spot Weld cutter bit is not pictured but was very useful.


Cleaned up:




Welding with the Woodsport jig:




Right Side:


Left Side:


Finished up:
 
#29 · (Edited)
Shift Cables

For the E153 tranny first I tried using the MK1 SC shift cables because they were for an E51 tranny which is similar. The front/back SC cable was fine but the left/right SC cable was too short.



I swapped both shift cables with a set from a MK2 turbo.

Left/Right Turbo on top, SC on bottom:


It's hard to tell from the pics but the Turbo cable and housing is just a little bit longer.

Front/Back Turbo on top, SC on bottom:

The Turbo cable and housing are longer, but the travel is the same.

The Turbo cables+housings are a little too long for the MK1 cabin. I'm going to try it like this for now but I might go back to the SC cables and extend the Left/Right cable.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Oil Cooler

Oil cooler placement idea:






After a few track days with the 4AGZE I realized an oil cooler was a necessity. I wanted the oil cooler low for weight but not really under the car in case of cones, kerbs, speed bumps, etc. So this is what I came up with. Not much airflow there so I added the fan. Also don't have to run the oil lines in front of the down pipe or near the turbo.
Thoughts?
 
#31 · (Edited)
Exhaust

Custom 16 gauge 3" aluminized mild steel. I just bought some flanges, small 45's, large 45's, flex, 180, and glass pack racing muffler. Hopefully it's not too loud, lol.
I was debating 2.5" or 3", smaller is lighter and should expel gases faster with better low end power, but larger should improve high-rpm power. It seems like most aftermarket kits are 3" too, not sure if that's just marketing or actually performance minded.

Mock-up:




Done:



Hopefully it still lines up when I got to put it back in!
 
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