5sgte+precision 6265 dyno'ed - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old August 1st, 2015, 12:36 Thread Starter
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5sgte+precision 6265 dyno'ed

Here is my dyno tune from my local tuner on a mustang dyno. I have duel maps one is for 93 pump and the other vp ms109 race gas. Lmk what you guys think and if there is anything I need improvement on. I don't know much about tuning and all. Is it possible to make the toque curve last longer instead of dropping off right away after peak?



Ats 5sgte with 9&+block
Ats 1200 injectors top feed
Walbro 450 fuel pump
Racerx side feed intake manifold
Racerx top mount exhaust manifold w/ down pipe
Precision 6265 journal bearing
1mm oversize in/ex valves
Fererra valves
BC calve springs w/ ti retainers
Shimless bucket conversion
Ats can gears set at "0"



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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old August 2nd, 2015, 15:51
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Stock cams? 262 or 272.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old August 3rd, 2015, 11:21 Thread Starter
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Kelford 270's intake and exhaust
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old August 4th, 2015, 23:50
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You can tune it a bit differently, and boost by gear/RPM, if your ems has that option... nudge it up at the higher RPMs (as long as fuel/knock allows) to flatten out the curve drop a bit Definitely what I plan to do.
Spooling decently for the cams btw, [email protected] RPM.

Another option is play with the cam gears a bit. You might give up a bit of peak power but gain in the area under the curve.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2015, 09:43
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Looks like a nice power curve to me. But playing with the cams should help you to flatten and extend the torque curve, probably at the cost of some spool. (one almost always trades for the other).

But with those cams and manifolds (and large turbo of course), you certainly should be able to get that to rev out higher and move your usable power band up to at least 8K (if the rest of the parts will survive it). Right now you are about done and ready to shift at 7300-7500 rpm at the most before it's not worth reving higher. (but spool is awesome for something that makes that much power!).
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old August 7th, 2015, 21:33
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The cams at Zero are definitely not ideal from my own testing. I would recommend trying kelford's spec for those cams. Also your post said a Mustang Dyno but that is definitely a Dynojet plot.


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old August 8th, 2015, 02:50 Thread Starter
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Yes you are right it is a dyno jet. Kelford specs on the cams? I'll have to search it up and see what I can find on that. Thanks for the tip.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old August 8th, 2015, 18:20
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I list the recommended Kelford installed centerlines on my site with the cams here: http://www.koracing.net/viewproduct....63&product=477

Or you can get a complete cam card on their site: http://www.camshaftshop.com/products...ctid=948#specs

You would have to use a degree wheel and dial indicator to get the exact installed centerlines set.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old August 17th, 2015, 20:58
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Graph looks good but Im wondering what you're doing for ignition? IF at all possible get rid of the distributor and go with a decent coil on plug set up. It will work wonders for you. The AFR curve is as flat as can be which is awesome. Honestly though just go have fun with it and enjoy it lol. Best advice i can give people these days
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old August 19th, 2015, 16:45
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I understand the pros and cons of the COP setup, but there is something to be said for the simplicity of a single coil, cap and rotor, and plug wires. It may be old school but it certainly can get the job done, and replacement parts are inexpensive comparatively, though there are more "wear" items. Ignition is one of those areas that if it is in good working condition, there really are no gains to be had.


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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old August 21st, 2015, 13:28
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How much boost?
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old August 22nd, 2015, 14:51 Thread Starter
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Pump-17.5lbs
Race- 26.5lbs
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old August 22nd, 2015, 14:58
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Yeah you definitely have alot more power in it. Something seems off, specifically the high boost numbers
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old August 22nd, 2015, 23:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki View Post
I understand the pros and cons of the COP setup, but there is something to be said for the simplicity of a single coil, cap and rotor, and plug wires. It may be old school but it certainly can get the job done, and replacement parts are inexpensive comparatively, though there are more "wear" items. Ignition is one of those areas that if it is in good working condition, there really are no gains to be had.
Yea but a solid direct fire coil et up is definitely unbeatable. Also can and crank triggers are where it's at. We have to always remember that the distributor is always estimating it's never actual. It's close but no cigar. Evo guys pick up a damn good amount of power from just switching up to spoiling up or spark tech coils so for the bolt on MR2 guys it's definitely something I'd recommend as a major upgrade.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old August 27th, 2015, 03:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltClassic View Post
Yea but a solid direct fire coil et up is definitely unbeatable. Also can and crank triggers are where it's at. We have to always remember that the distributor is always estimating it's never actual. It's close but no cigar. Evo guys pick up a damn good amount of power from just switching up to spoiling up or spark tech coils so for the bolt on MR2 guys it's definitely something I'd recommend as a major upgrade.
The "bolt on MR2 guys" aren't running engine management, so not exactly a feasible upgrade on an MR2 turbo without and EMS. Not really necessary either. The MR2 ignition is pretty good. Most cars I build and tune run a single coil, and often just an upgraded single coil for up to 450whp and sometimes higher. 850whp? Single coil with HKS twin power. Seems to work so far - with the stock distributor providing engine position.


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