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post #41 of 46 (permalink) Old December 11th, 2018, 22:17
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Would it have to be an original USDM 3S-GTE, or could you borrow from other 3S families like maybe a BEAMS 3S-GE?

Even a rev 2 3S-GTE would be pretty stout if you build it right, even breathing through a restrictor (depending on size). Just put a modern turbo that can stay efficient at a high pressure ratio and that will do a lot to wake the engine up.
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post #42 of 46 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2019, 20:37
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@RavynX, where are you in Texas? I'm in the DFW area. I'm usually pretty generous with letting others drive my car. You could at least feel what it is like with a V6 (just the 3mz though). I have the Wilhelm Raceworks geometry kit but running cheap D2 coilovers right now. Need to upgrade to Whilhelm's Koni setup soon. :-) I have the P/S rack, ABS, factory LSD,
I like the car with the stockish 3mz much better than the stock 3s-gte.
I'm not anywhere near SSM though.
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post #43 of 46 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2019, 21:22 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathand View Post
@RavynX, where are you in Texas? I'm in the DFW area. I'm usually pretty generous with letting others drive my car. You could at least feel what it is like with a V6 (just the 3mz though). I have the Wilhelm Raceworks geometry kit but running cheap D2 coilovers right now. Need to upgrade to Whilhelm's Koni setup soon. :-) I have the P/S rack, ABS, factory LSD,
I like the car with the stockish 3mz much better than the stock 3s-gte.
I'm not anywhere near SSM though.
Hi @nathand, I'm down south in San Antonio though I make my way up to Mineral Wells just west of you for the Pro Solo and Champ Tour events. Sounds like you have all the bells and whistles! I still need to get my 5s-fe up and running so I have some sort of baseline on how an MR2 drives compared to other setups but your offer is much appreciated.

Speaking of which, I got my replacement fuel tank in today, woot! Photos to come soon.

Last edited by RavynX; February 28th, 2019 at 21:33.
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post #44 of 46 (permalink) Old March 8th, 2019, 10:59 Thread Starter
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Finally got a replacement fuel tank in last week. I inquired about it back in November 2018 and had to wait a bit for the shop to pull it in California (forest fires going on at the time). I procrastinated over the Christmas break to look at the underside as at least two bolts snapped on me when removing parts to get the tank out, one of those being a bolt holding the e-brake bracket. I attempted to drill it out two nights ago and use a large easy-out bit on it but no luck. This weekend I'll be drilling it out slightly more and installing a helicoil in it.

I'm also going to run another pressure-test on the coolant system to see if the green/blue is just oxidation on the copper piping, if it's old remnants of coolant pouring out from when previous owner replaced the engine, or if there are actually pin-hole leaks in the pipes. Worst case I can cap off the heater lines for now (Texas spring/summer is approaching), I can attempt to repair them, or I can replace them with rubber lines (probably a bit heavier, eh?).

I got an Aeromotive fuel pump that's ready to go in the tank, got a replacement fuel filler neck hose, and I just need to finish prepping the threads on the underside of the body so the install is a bit easier than what I'm expecting with all of the rust/corrosion.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190306_173330.jpg (164.2 KB, 7 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_20190306_174502.jpg (506.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190306_174801.jpg (85.8 KB, 9 views)
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post #45 of 46 (permalink) Old March 13th, 2019, 09:13
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Looks like coolant residue unfortunately. Although maybe it's galvanic corrosion. It actually looks like the bracket for one line has broken free and the line has slipped a bit? Or maybe it's just the lightning.

I highly doubt Toyota used copper. It's likely mild steel with a zinc or chromate conversion coating on it and brazed brackets.



You could also put some UV dye in the coolant and a UV LED light, circulate things a bit and get the pressure up, then check for dye (can't remember if the engine is running, but pressure can substitute for an engine getting up to temp).

Silicone lines are probably a tad heavier than hardlines, but I can't imagine much.
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post #46 of 46 (permalink) Old March 13th, 2019, 11:34 Thread Starter
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Yeah, probably better call on the mild-steel pipes, the color mislead me. I still need to run the pressure tester on the system before I install the tank which I'm hoping to run tonight. Last night I was able to helicoil one of the e-brake bracket bolt holes; hopefully it'll hold as there wasn't much surface for the helicoil.

New tank unpacked, not all that happy with the MR2-partout-place that sold me the tank as they bent the fuel-supply line OVER the fuel-filler neck hole and they mangled the fuel-supply connector with vice grips. My rusted tank I was able to use a flare-wrench on it to break it free without mangling it. -sigh- The box was plenty big enough not to have to bend it to fit; it wasn't damaged in shipping because the saran-wrap was tightly wound around it rather than loose. Hopefully it aligns back up after heating it and bending it back into place and hopefully it doesn't leak.

New fuel hoses added and fuel-filler hose added, just need some hose clamps now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg helicoil.jpg (160.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg tank_compare_before.jpg (177.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg connector_mangled.jpg (88.4 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg tank_clean.jpg (113.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg pump_old.jpg (155.4 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg pump_new1.jpg (152.5 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg tank_compare_after.jpg (174.3 KB, 3 views)

Last edited by RavynX; March 13th, 2019 at 11:36.
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