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post #101 of 276 (permalink) Old March 23rd, 2011, 11:38 Thread Starter
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Fronts are going to be tough to get above the tire...6" springs are possible on the front but you'll risk coil bind. I have just removed 6" 450lb springs from the rear of my daily driver, they had major coil bind issues, just FYI... I would not go anything shorter than 7" IMHO
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post #102 of 276 (permalink) Old March 23rd, 2011, 12:09
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The car is going to be pretty high off the ground trying to get it over the tire too.

I am not sure about A6 or similar wear but as far as my tires they all seem to wear pretty evenly just a lot of camber wear on each corner.
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post #103 of 276 (permalink) Old April 1st, 2011, 08:24 Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim, I'll just have to experiment a bit with how much camber to use. How much camber do you have on your car?

Some updates on my build. Suspension is 90% completed now, just need to finish sleeve seats on the strut housings and fab up some links/spacers for the rear links to compensate for the rear RCA's.
All four calipers are rebuilt, cleaned and painted. (oem toyota rebuid kit) All four spindles are cleaned and painted with POR-15 and topcoated with high heat paint, that should keep them decent looking for a while especially on a car that will never see salt or snow, just occasional rain at events.
Friend of mine just finished the head for me so it'll be engine assembly next week. Still undecided on the oil pump. Right now I have a 98+ Camry pump shimmed by about 1mm. Not sure if I am going to keep the shim or just use the pump as is...any advice?

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Last edited by gtfour77; April 1st, 2011 at 08:28.
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post #104 of 276 (permalink) Old April 1st, 2011, 08:41
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Those are lookin mighty fine! I havent done my alignment and havent decided on how much camber to run. i liked -3 on my old setup but i havent done much testing outside of that.
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post #105 of 276 (permalink) Old April 1st, 2011, 08:48 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walka
Those are lookin mighty fine! I havent done my alignment and havent decided on how much camber to run. i liked -3 on my old setup but i havent done much testing outside of that.
-3 is what I was thinking for the front, maybe a little less for the rear, I'll just have to experiment when the car is done I suppose. I know the sperical suspension will change things a little too. On the alltrac I was able to run a lot less camber after heim conversion.
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post #106 of 276 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2011, 09:49
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So this weekend was the first autocross in a while! I got to try out the new setup. Suspension, seat/harness, steering wheel, less weight. I didnt have my toyo's due to the weather so we used levi's star specs setup 215f/245r.

Anyway the car is amazing compared to last year.

Here are the top 10 fastest times of the day

33 Lane, Mike 2003 Nissan 350Z Black AM 33.157
19 Walker, Timothy 1991 Toyota MR2 Blue AM 34.154
10 Tucker, Azizi 2006 Mitsubishi Evo Gray AM 34.866
26 Byrd Jr., Jerry 2006 Subaru STI Black AM 35.190
43 Wood, William 2002 Mazda miata white AM 35.220
9 Bragason, Daniel1991 Toyota MR2 Blue AM 35.613
4 Donohue, Dan 1990 Mazda Miata Silver PM 35.645
37 Noyes, Jeff 1998 BMW M3 Silver PM 35.837
0 Styer, Rocky 1993 Mazda Rx-7 Black AM 35.992
118 De Pena, Manuel 1996 BMW M3 Black AM 35.998

I got beat out by a 350z on a6's and daniel got 6th fastest. Was a really big confidence booster haha.

Anyway daniel seems to think i need to work on the brakes now. Only thing i noticed was i locked the front after tripping the end lights once. He is suggesting a turbo proportioning valve, is yours a original turbo martin? what kind of brakes are you running?

Last edited by walka; April 4th, 2011 at 09:52.
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post #107 of 276 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2011, 10:06 Thread Starter
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Awesome news Tim!!! Congrats on a great event and fast times for both of you.

As for the brakes, what were they doing/not doing? What are you trying to improve?
I'll be using stock turbo calipers and stock turbo rotors....for now. I do have a 97 Tacoma master cyl that'll go in, it's the larger diameter one for easier modulation. I do have a big brake kit on the shelf from the alltrac just in case but won't use it unless the stock system is going to cause problems. Wilwood prop valve will go in for adjustment of rear bias with the stock valve removed of course. I am hoping that with good lines and fluid the stock brakes will be able to handle the car well.
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post #108 of 276 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2011, 11:23
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Im not fully sure of the problem yet so i will need to do more testing.

One thing i had to keep fixing was the front camber plates. The top bolt keeps backing out i feel like i may have to throw on some locktite to keep them im place. I dont really want to make it hard to take them off since i really have no way of keeping the strut in place. Maybe i should just use a crush washer? It seems my rear's do not have this problem. At least i have a good sign of when it starts to back out i get a bit of a clicking sound when going over bumps and it progressively gets worse.

Oh maybe i will just put another nut on top of that nut, there is plenty of stud left.
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post #109 of 276 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2011, 12:02 Thread Starter
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Yup, use a second thinner nut on top of the original one and you can just tighten them against each other. I had to do the same thing on the alltrac...
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post #110 of 276 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2011, 23:27
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Just saying hi guys. I'm subscribing since I just plan some minor SSM mods so the car will be more fun for PCA events though its my DD so nothing serious. Some very cool stuff here, thanks for the info.
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post #111 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 05:40
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are you putting those 3 stud camber plates on the rear?
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post #112 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 08:19
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If you are asking me, yea the rear has 3 stud camber plates and the front has 4 stud camber plates.
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post #113 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 08:40
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Amazing!

Your picture looks like you are using factory brakes.....

I would think that would have to be upgraded for sure.

Can't wait to see it on the track. You sure had that All-Trac sorted, so this should REALLY be something to see.

(Can't wait to see that large wing on it. HA!)
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post #114 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 08:41
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Why would he want heavier brakes?
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post #115 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 09:07 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccsouls
I would think that would have to be upgraded for sure.
Paul, thank you for the kind words. As for the brakes, all factory hardware will be used for now. I do have a big brake kit from the alltrac ready to go if needed but I am sure the stock calipers will be sufficient with proper supporting mods (SS lines, god pads, MC etc..)
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post #116 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 15:11
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Ok i have come up with an idea and i might need to go read the rules if it pertains to this.

This weekend i delt with an alternator issue on a my gf's car, 92 firebird v8, and it baffled my mind on how to fix it, tried 3 new alternators, a new battery, tested all the wiring except one. Found out it was a fan fuse which powers the 1 field wire anyway....

I found that her car lasted 2 days with this alternator problem cause it would randomly shut off cause of loss of power but the battery got its 2nd leg multiple times. A rainy day finally killed it running headlights and wipers on just battery!

I figured that a car should easily be able to complete 6 runs in autocross on just the battery so it got me thinking. Would removing the alternator and bracket's and belt free up engine drag and rear weight (cause thats where i want to remove weight) and keeping a decent sized battery in the front ideal location be a good benefit?

What do people think of this type of idea?

I built a car for drag racing and that was ideal to get everything off the belt system including the water pump to free up any type of power/weight. I feel keeping a decent battery up front is a better place for the weight than going with a small battery and keeping an alternator.

edit: checked the rules the engine is unrestricted as far as that is concerned.

Last edited by walka; April 5th, 2011 at 15:18.
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post #117 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 16:39
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The "total loss" electrical system has been a quandry for years. The only answer is to dyno the car and see if there is any actual power gain.

I dyno'ed my car and found that any gains from eliminating the parasitic loss by the alternator were more than canceled by the loss in performance due to the voltage drop at the ignition coils.

Remember that your the alternator charges the battery at about 14 volts. So that's what the coils see. If you remove the alternator and run off the battery, they see somthing less than 12 volts. That's nearly 20% difference.

Also, the headache's associated with not running an alternator (for me) are not worth the gain. An aux battery with a cable is a necessity to start the car and it is required to charge the battery before each set of runs.

What about radiator fans and other loads? To me its not worth it.

-Steve
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post #118 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 16:58
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i guess i was also considering the rear weight, but i guess what your saying is 12lbs in the rear is worth the 14v charge. I was curious since im sure that is considered.
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post #119 of 276 (permalink) Old April 5th, 2011, 21:26
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what car is the rear adjustable camber plate off?
i thought only toda still made them for SW20
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post #120 of 276 (permalink) Old April 6th, 2011, 07:53
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Both of my plates are redrilled plates from another car.

Rears are cusco front plates for a celica
Fronts are ebay brand front plates for a FC rx7.

You have to pound the studs out and do some measuring and redrill the studs and pound them back in. And then you have your camber plates.
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