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post #261 of 276 (permalink) Old June 27th, 2011, 14:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walka
He said it might be about another 2 weeks before i get them. If you want to order them now just let me know or you can wait and see what ive bought as far as my spacing. I am not sure how much space the KW's have. If you have a straight edge and a ruler you can measure to see if its similar to what i have.
I think I'm gonna wait until you fit them up. I'm assuming you're working with stock-like spring perches so the tire fits underneath. That should give you more room than my coilovers. I'll try to get some measurements this weekend when I put in my new wheel studs.
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post #262 of 276 (permalink) Old June 27th, 2011, 14:49
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No haha, i posted the build of the suspension in this thread.

https://mr2oc.com/showpost.php?p=4632306&postcount=69

Here is a pic of when i got the first one assembled.
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post #263 of 276 (permalink) Old June 28th, 2011, 00:13
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Well, the new upper perches are working out GREAT. I reset the ride height about 1/8" higher than I had at my last event, and that combined with the new perches has so far resulted in zero bottoming out.

Video from yesterday: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJF1TbN8dE4

Still a small lot, but this course offered me a few more chances to put some horsepower to the ground (or not, as you will notice in a couple of spots).
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post #264 of 276 (permalink) Old June 28th, 2011, 08:28
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How high are the bottom of your springs now? I was thinking if i got those tops and a 6" spring i might add another 3" of clearance to my setup. Maybe i could get the front tires to tuck under the spring collar. The height on my front tires are 22.5". So 11.3"+ from center is how much clearance i'd need.
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post #265 of 276 (permalink) Old June 28th, 2011, 10:34
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My rear springs are just above the tire, but I'm pretty sure that the rear isn't what you are worried about.

My fronts are still slightly below the lip on my rim (17's). I think that even with 6" springs getting them above the tire would be tough. i know on my tires (22.4" dia) the top of the strut only barely extends above the tire, so the perch would have to sit at the absolute top of the strut and even then I don't know if it would clear. You certainly would have limited adjustability


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Specializing in suspension and handling for the MKII MR2

Custom Koni coilovers and coilover housings, suspension geometry correction kits, camber/caster plates, big brake kits, and more

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A retro-active build thread for my track / autocross car
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post #266 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 09:17 Thread Starter
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Well, another setback, I was test fitting the axles last night and driver's side is stub is too long...the passenger side is too short...will have to take a closer look at what's going on. The problem is I don't know whether I have a 91-92 TRD LSD or 93+... let the fun of figuring out what I have begin...heh
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post #267 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 09:22
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nooooo, could you just swap the stubs?
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post #268 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 09:23
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Since were on the subject of spring lengths maybe you guys could give me some advice. I have 3.5" long collars that take 2.5" id springs. Should i get 7" or 8" long springs?

Im thinking of going 700lb FR and 500lb RR on a swayless setup on koni yellows. Im not going really low either because ill want at least 2-3" of shock travel right? I will also be getting one of alex's geometry kits as soon as he makes some more.
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post #269 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 10:10 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by donteatbugs
Since were on the subject of spring lengths maybe you guys could give me some advice. I have 3.5" long collars that take 2.5" id springs. Should i get 7" or 8" long springs?

Im thinking of going 700lb FR and 500lb RR on a swayless setup on koni yellows. Im not going really low either because ill want at least 2-3" of shock travel right? I will also be getting one of alex's geometry kits as soon as he makes some more.
7" front and 7-8" rear springs will work really well. With your spring setup the shock travel will be more than adequate. I have been running a lot less in the "test" car recently and 2" or so was plenty...just FYI. Alex's geometry kit is a work of art, hope you get it.

Tim, yes, I am ready to go home to take some measurements, hopefully I'll be able to find a cheap stub axle, I have a feeling I bought a 93+ TRD LSD so the regular turbo axles don't fit. I think passenger side will but driver's has major issues...
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post #270 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 10:28
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Thanks, I think ill order my springs today and start taking my suspension apart. Any measurement of the possition of my sleeves? I had the at the top on my alltrac but i think i can maybe drop them an inch on the MR2. I know they wont go all the way down but id hate to weld the stop on then find im out of range one way or another. Thanks for the help guys, So much more useful to follow someone thats done all the guess work for you
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post #271 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 10:35 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by donteatbugs
Any measurement of the possition of my sleeves? I had the at the top on my alltrac but i think i can maybe drop them an inch on the MR2. I know they wont go all the way down but id hate to weld the stop on then find im out of range one way or another. Thanks for the help guys, So much more useful to follow someone thats done all the guess work for you

I put mine right at the top of the flange that mounts the strut to the spindle, with the sway bar ears cut off it's easy to put them down low so you can use proper length springs.
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post #272 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 12:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtfour77
I put mine right at the top of the flange that mounts the strut to the spindle, with the sway bar ears cut off it's easy to put them down low so you can use proper length springs.
Thats where I mounted mine as well (in the front). On the rears I just stuck them on top of the sway bar tab (not ideal, but working so far). If you wanted to be a bit cleaner about it you can get longer sleeves (mine are 5") and cut that sway bar tab off and put the rear on just like the front. Either way, no welding required if using full length inserts.
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post #273 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 12:55 Thread Starter
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Well crap, I just found out that my axle stubs are off...the driver's side is too long, it literally bottoms out in the diff (not the splines but actual end of the stub is hitting the diff middle section with the hole in it), it's over 1/2" off the seal...its way off.
The passenger side is too short, it only engages aboput 1/4" before the carrier bearing bracket lignes up with the mounting holes... Alex, maybe you'll have a better idea having more experience with these things. It's like the diff inside is backwards...could this be on a TRD diff? (The inside is swiched perhaps?) I know it can only go in one way but it seems like it's backwards for some starnge reason. Maybe previous owner tried to rebuild it and got it wrong? I am at a loss at this point... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really dopn;t want to tear out the trans but guess I will have to. Are the stubs different from 91-92 to 93+ maybe?
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post #274 of 276 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2011, 14:38
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crap, I have a trd diff too but i just put fluid in it. I can pull the axles and take picture for you if you want. Im using 91 turbo non lsd axles and mine fit perfect.

Well im going with 7" spring in the front and 8" in the back. I dont mind cutting or welding on the tube, I had to section my alltrac bodies just to get an insert in the rear.

Last edited by donteatbugs; June 30th, 2011 at 14:41.
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post #275 of 276 (permalink) Old July 1st, 2011, 07:41 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donteatbugs
crap, I have a trd diff too but i just put fluid in it. I can pull the axles and take picture for you if you want. Im using 91 turbo non lsd axles and mine fit perfect.

Well im going with 7" spring in the front and 8" in the back. I dont mind cutting or welding on the tube, I had to section my alltrac bodies just to get an insert in the rear.
Thanks for the info, that's what thought...stock turbo axles should fit without any issues...hmm Time to take the diff out and take a really close look at it.

That spring setup should work really well, keep us posted...
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post #276 of 276 (permalink) Old July 1st, 2011, 07:52
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