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post #21 of 363 (permalink) Old February 26th, 2009, 14:56 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XHead
Sorry to hear that. Fortunate that the side effects are what they are.

So what are you doing on the computer? Get out there and get to work

-Steve

I have been!! Click through the gallery, and you'll see this (red) car is Ready to Run. Plan is to actually debut it at a regional event in the next couple of weeks.
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post #22 of 363 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2009, 01:04 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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Gauges reinstalled, race seat, harnesses installed, and doors stripped:

http://www.pbase.com/mtb_zack/image/109629983
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post #23 of 363 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2009, 01:18
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is your seat the 10 or 20 degree model?


wow, we had two completely different Ideas on cutting the doors out.

Last edited by zipty842; February 27th, 2009 at 01:29.
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post #24 of 363 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2009, 06:42
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You are going to cut those big, heavy door beams out, right?

-Steve
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post #25 of 363 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2009, 08:49 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipty842
is your seat the 10 or 20 degree model?


wow, we had two completely different Ideas on cutting the doors out.

This one is a 14.5" 10 degree layback, Pro (?) model mounted on Corbeau sliders. My passenger seat is a 20 degree Economy model, that will eventually get bolted to the floor. It was my drivers seat in v1.0, but I never liked the seating position: I like to be upright and maybe a little high in the car.

Sawzall + 10" heavy/medum steel blade, and just let it follow the contour of the door. I'm 6'2" so its not really a problem to reach around and pop open the door. I only want a door skin that I'll cover on the inside with an aluminum sheet.

Yes, the door bars will go away on the second pass through the interior. Next on the list: get the car back in the air, remove the AC lines, parking brake crap, AC exchanger, and headlights. Take out the glass and get to work on all that wiring.
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post #26 of 363 (permalink) Old March 2nd, 2009, 09:52 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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I spent my weekend in the garage repairing the lower radiator support and stripping out the AC, parking brake, and front bumper. Regarding the former, I was lazy and tried to jack the car up from the frunk support. The car slipped off our low-profile jack, so that the lower radiator support landed dead center on the jack arm. Everything got bumped a couplafew cm up.

I disassembled the front of the car, lifted the radiator off the support and let it hang. v1.0 showed me it'll hold. Then it was big wooden block time + hammer. Reshaping the upper mounts involved a giant bench clamp and a some arm strength.

Post-op pics are here: http://www.pbase.com/image/109738887

I cut out some of the V1.0 pics from the gallery, as they really weren't helpful or of anything important.

Last edited by mtbmr2; March 5th, 2009 at 16:08.
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post #27 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 08:49 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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Back window replaced with Lexan: https://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=336929

Removing the rear window took 15 minutes, maybe: gently push on the top of the window and prior upper rubber seal out.

I reshaped the Lexan I used in v1.0 so that it would fit in the OEM window molding, that took me maybe 20 minutes. I used a dremel, with the cutting bit, and taped the lexan to the OWM back window, then carefully followed the contour of the back window. You can prevent chips/knicks in the glass by taping the edge you are following

Reinstall took about 90minutes: sonuva... it was a PITA. I can't say whether it was that the lexan is a little bit thicker, or if the shape of the window still wasn't quite right. But it went in eventually, by walking a thin screwdriver around the seal, I did use some 303 protectant to make things slide a bit. One corner is a little wrinkled but it is on the inside.

Last edited by mtbmr2; March 5th, 2009 at 16:12.
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post #28 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 16:11 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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Hey, this got stickied!

Verno/Zipty/Xhead...others (?) feel free to point out the errors in my build, or tips tricks you used!
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post #29 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 18:22
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OK, you asked.

The StuporCrapp muffler and pipe. The supertrapp is awful. Will kill your top end power. The pipe is too short to make torque.

Get a real muffler. This is the prototype (test version) of the system I put on my car. That's a Walker DynoMax UltraFlo muffler. The length is tuned to make torque.





-Steve
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post #30 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 19:18
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Steve, what size pipe is that?? Looks almost 3 inch.. or is it 2.5..
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post #31 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 20:45
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2.5"


-Steve
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post #32 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 20:45
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You not doing this right? You are gonna lose all kinds of power.


*EDIT*

Damn Steveo beat me to it. Maybe I should read the thread before posting. LMAO.
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post #33 of 363 (permalink) Old March 5th, 2009, 21:11
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mine's not a whole lot different. 2.25" pipe with a magnaflow.

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post #34 of 363 (permalink) Old March 6th, 2009, 08:51 Thread Starter
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Honestly, I hadn't thought about the exhaust, header length, and power.
I don't have an excuse for it either.

Am I, currently, killing top end power, or low-mid torque? Is there a length that is a good compromise for power/torque?

Hey look what I found:
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm
http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechAr...ry/theory.html

Last edited by mtbmr2; March 6th, 2009 at 09:17.
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post #35 of 363 (permalink) Old March 6th, 2009, 23:50
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Ultimately, I think the trick is just to get as much piping under the car as possible, due to the limited space. That slight boost of power the AE86 got was just due to the exhaust.
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post #36 of 363 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2009, 23:38 Thread Starter
Zack's smirking revenge
 
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I'll have to figure that out as I go. Right now I'm still stripping weight out.

Prepping for the lexan takes a bit longer when the quarter panel window shatters. And I had a window sealant blade...
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post #37 of 363 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2009, 23:49
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heh, I elbowed my sunroof last friday getting in the car to get it off of the trailer <_<
good thing its safety glass, but I dont wanna pull it out yet to do a couple of things due to the crazy weather we have. I'm supposed to be getting a stall in the same building my dad's shop is, but the guy doesn't seem to want to clean it out.
I hope to have my lexan made up sometime next week.
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post #38 of 363 (permalink) Old March 10th, 2009, 10:42 Thread Starter
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Clean it out for him! I had to request a more accessible spot in our shop, then I had to basically move the flotsam/jetsam of a BMW LeMons car.

Maiden Voyage date has been set: Mar 29.
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post #39 of 363 (permalink) Old March 10th, 2009, 15:54
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Maiden Voyage? That's great!!!

I spent the weekend re-ringing my motor. A week early at my first regional of the season, I suspected I had a problem and thrashed to get it done in time to make the Dixie Tour this weekend.

-Steve
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post #40 of 363 (permalink) Old March 12th, 2009, 17:05
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I want to get in on this thread

?? After you remove the guts to the front and rear bumpers what are you using (or how) to help the bumpers keep there shape?


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