Coil Over Spring Ratings - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old April 2nd, 2016, 17:28 Thread Starter
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Coil Over Spring Ratings

I have 2.5" x 3.25" x 7" coil springs on my MK1 front end but I want to raise the car back up with 10" springs. What weight rating do I need to purchase so my car won't bottom out like it does with the 7" springs?

I see lots of 2.5" x 10" springs on Summit Racing with many different ratings up to 450#.

Miles

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old April 3rd, 2016, 09:39
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Unless you are out of adjustment on your threaded sleeves, you shouldn't need longer springs to raise the ride height, just make the adjustment at the spring perch.

What rate are your current springs? The number you are seeing is actually a spring rate (like 450lb/in), not a weight rating exactly.

You can either raise the ride height to prevent bottoming, or run stiffer spring rates at your current ride height.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old April 3rd, 2016, 10:40 Thread Starter
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My springs are 7" long. Adjusted all the way up the spring still doesn't touch. There is no number on my springs.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old April 3rd, 2016, 20:17
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Well, the springs may or may not be pre-loaded at full droop (that's what helper springs are for). Unless you also raise the ride height, longer springs won't change the pre-load situation. I know your goal IS to raise the ride height, but I just wanted to say this because it is a common mis-conception.

That said, 10" springs sound way excessive for a MKI. 8" springs are quite common, and if you don't adjust your perches should raise the ride height by 1". Are you really wanting to raise it more than that? Also, stiffer springs will raise the ride height some (assuming no perch adjustment, since they will compress less under the weight of the vehicle. But, without knowing your current rates, it's hard to know if we are going stiffer or softer.

I run 250f and 300r on my MKI, and find it to be a pretty decent all around setup. Not horribly uncomfortable for daily driving, and stiff enough to not feel like a boat on an autocross course. Too soft for any *serious* race use however.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old April 4th, 2016, 00:41 Thread Starter
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Currently my car is lowered 3" by someone who installed the coilover kit which even when fully extended still doesn't fill the gap where the spring sits. 10" springs will only preload by 1". I guess I could find some more stock struts and install my adjustable inserts and be done with it. Even if I had 8" springs and fully extended the adjuster what keeps the adjuster from moving? There's no lock nut.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old April 14th, 2016, 13:37
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can you link a picture of the delima you are talking about? when jacked up coilover springs should not be in contact with the top and they should float around. You do not want them preloaded. I believe we might be a bit off on the goal and wording. We are trying to lower our MK1s and are looking at custom 5" springs to do so. However, you go too low and now the strut body comes in contact with the top hat/camber plate.

with respect to the adjustable spring perch on the coil over typically there is an alan bolt inside of the perch that helps tighten the it to the threaded coilover body.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2016, 21:24
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I wouldn't say they should be loose. You don't want a ton of preload, but if they are loose, you really should be running helper springs. That's what helpers are for after all.


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old June 1st, 2016, 01:33 Thread Starter
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I know you keep saying helper springs but my original springs are missing and Ricky Racer installed coil over kits. Fronts are 2.5" ID x 7" and rears are 2.5" x 8". Fronts & rears have adjustable sleeves. I ended up buying 9" 200 LB springs for front and 9" 300 LB rear springs. Now the gaps are closed with the adjustable sleeves. The struts are Tokiko adjustables. The ride is too stiff for street. The BGB does not give the stock spring ratings - does anyone know?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old June 1st, 2016, 02:15
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If you find 200/300 too stiff it sounds to me like you should just find someone selling stock suspension components and just go back to stock. This will solve all your problems in one shot.

It definitely seems like there is some confusion in terminology and application.
It would help if you told us more about your setup. By your description I assume you have something like Ground control sleeves where you adjust the height with a sleeve that is the spring perch. With a setup like this you cannot properly setup preload and so you need a helper spring if you don't want your springs rattling around.
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If you have proper coilovers there will be two adjustments. The perch adjuster is used to set preload/droop and there is a second adjuster usually the shock tube that spins in the sleeve that bolts to the knuckle. This is the one used to adjust height.

If you have something like the ground control sleeves and wanted to upgrade to something with both adjustments I can get Daiyama coilovers with 2kg/mm and 4kg/mm spring rates. This translates to about 112 and 224 lb/in which would be very close to stock.
MKI MR2 Write-ups


We could try to find you other springs for your current setup but that really doesn't sound like the problem. Eibach generally has the largest selection and we could probably find you something that would be softer and similar to stock but you will still probably need a helper spring if you don't want them flopping around.

Really though if you are looking for something like stock ride and height it sounds like going back to stock may be the way to go.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old June 4th, 2016, 20:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoshimitsuspeed View Post
If you have proper coilovers there will be two adjustments. The perch adjuster is used to set preload/droop and there is a second adjuster usually the shock tube that spins in the sleeve that bolts to the knuckle. This is the one used to adjust height.
LOL. "Proper coilovers". They may not have adjustable pre-load, but I have no doubt that my Koni Race coilovers will kick the pants off your "proper coilovers".


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old June 5th, 2016, 12:31
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With inserts that cost more than the complete coilovers I am working on one would hope so.
At least you use weld on threaded sleeves.
You should send a set to get shock dynoed with the company that does ours so we have comparison data on the race shocks.


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old June 7th, 2016, 20:36
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OK, I will admit, I did not intend for that to be a fair comparison. You are right, on price it is no contest.

My point was simply that the presence of absence of preload adjustment isn't what makes or breaks a set of coilovers.


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