Starter/Electrical issue. Last Chance before it gets sold - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old August 13th, 2019, 20:28 Thread Starter
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Starter/Electrical issue. Last Chance before it gets sold

Hello everyone

While I have enjoyed driving my MR2, unfortunately it has been out of service more than it has been running. The most recent issue was that the car would not go into gear. So, after replacing the clutch hydraulics with no results, I replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and pressure plate. And now, after putting it back together, the car will not start. There was simply a loud click. Battery is producing over 13 volts. Starter worked fine when I took it off. Would not start with a jump. Dash lights work sometimes, sometimes don't. All three fuseboxes look good. The dash lights not working makes me think its a bigger deal than a simple starter replacement.

I do not really want to dump any more time/effort into this car. It's already on ebay and craigslist as not running. Perhaps there is something simple I'm missing? I can get images if needed of the wiring from battery to starter. It's a custom job due to the engine swap, but I put it back together as I found it.

Long as I'm making a post, what is the general opinion on selling whole/parting out? I've got a lot of money in the car. More than I think I can get for the whole car, but perhaps by parting it out I could come close. 4AGE Blacktop, rust free and mostly dent free body panels, interior trim, etc. Already got a local buyer for the shifter, should I decide to go that route!

Sorry to be such a downer, I think AW11's are great cars. This one is just not for me.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old August 18th, 2019, 20:59
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Originally Posted by toyota_vintage View Post
... the car will not start. There was simply a loud click. Battery is producing over 13 volts. Starter worked fine when I took it off. Would not start with a jump. Dash lights work sometimes, sometimes don't...
Do the dash lights stay on or go out when you engage the starter? If the lights go out when you try to crank, then it is just a dead battery or possibly a bad connection. You can tell the difference by measuring battery voltage while the starter is engaged.

If you get a click and the lights do not dim, then most likely the starter solenoid is worn out. This can be intermittent. You could try 19 times, and on the 20th it might start as if nothing was wrong.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old August 18th, 2019, 22:21
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Possibly you did not run the ground wire from the transmission housing to the frame or if you did, you did not secure it properly. People do this ALL THE TIME, with the same result.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old August 18th, 2019, 23:12
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If you hear a loud click that is the sound of the starter solenoid trying to engage, it could be that the starter gear is interfering with the flywheel and not engaging fully or it could also be that the contacts in the starter solenoid are getting worn out and pitted. This is an easy fix, you just need to do a little digging and testing and apply yourself.

I hate to say this but if you are willing to give up and sell your JDM engine swapped MR2 over something this simple then this is not the car for you.

There will be much taller hurdles than this in the future, especially with a foreign engine swap.

If you sell it now you most likely will take a loss, if you stay in it for the long haul like some of us here you stand to gain a wealth of automotive knowledge and a driving experience second to none.

The choice is yours, choose wisely.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old August 19th, 2019, 00:49
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Originally Posted by toyota_vintage View Post
Battery is producing over 13 volts.
How in the heck [imagine a different word there] is that possible?

I'll buy your car for $1.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old August 20th, 2019, 10:45
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Take out and test your starter relay. It's probably good since that may be what is clicking. From there, check the starter circuits. You may have to take out the starter to do this. Check your fusible link, the B+ wire that goes from your battery to your alternator.
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a loose connection to the ECU. I unplugged it then reconnected, and the car started right up.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old August 20th, 2019, 20:51 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips everyone, I will try all of these things soon as it hasn't sold yet

Quote:
Originally Posted by R.O.B.O. View Post

I hate to say this but if you are willing to give up and sell your JDM engine swapped MR2 over something this simple then this is not the car for you.

There will be much taller hurdles than this in the future, especially with a foreign engine swap.

If you sell it now you most likely will take a loss, if you stay in it for the long haul like some of us here you stand to gain a wealth of automotive knowledge and a driving experience second to none.

The choice is yours, choose wisely.
^ I'd hope that the clutch is the biggest hurdle I'd run into, can't think of anything that would be more work than that, other than perhaps major engine failure. I have learned a lot from the car after having to redo the entire suspension, fabricate a custom throttle cable housing setup, and of course the clutch and hydraulics among other smaller projects. And I certainly loved driving it, but it's been off the road almost as much as it's been on it. I don't really want to sell it, but I don't have time to chase all the issues...you can imagine the frustration of putting the front suspension back together, buying $400 tires, and not being able to put it into gear to take it to get an alignment so it's road worthy again...

Hate to say it but it can't be all that desirable. Highest offer I've gotten is $700....sure it isn't running but my thinking is that 99.9% of people dont have the will/time to put all the work into it. Truthfully if I had room I'd park it for a few years until I had the money to pay someone else to fix it, but I don't have space to do that, so it has to go.
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