A Few Issues with Questions - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old April 13th, 2019, 17:41 Thread Starter
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A Few Issues with Questions

Hello everyone,

I just bought my 1985 MR2 on this past Wednesday the 10th of April. She has some imperfections (as most cars do when they start getting up there in age) that I need to start working on but had some questions about before I begin.

Here are a few issues that I would like some assistance or guidance with.

1. The stereo does not turn on (I believe it is the stock stereo as the previous owner kept almost everything stock)
- I have checked the fuses and found that one of them is blown. I tried replacing it and it blew again. In the image attached, it is the 10A fuse on the top left. Can anyone tell me if this fuse goes to the radio and what would be the likeliest cause of it blowing?

2. The timing belt needs to be replaced. I have already decided that I will be replacing the belt as well as the tensioner, spring, seals, water pump, and oil pump seals.
- is there any way to remove the crankshaft pulley without the need for an impact gun (as I do not currently own one)?
- what is the best way to go about completing these replacements? any tips or tricks?
- I found all the necessary parts on rockauto.com, is this a reputable website? (I have seen their vendor page on the forums

3. In need of a new trunk lid piece that can accept the wing.
- is there anyplace that sells fiberglass/aluminum body parts such as the trunk or frunk hood?

Thank you all in advance!
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old April 14th, 2019, 08:01
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Cam belt replacement

You have to have bar or some other tool that you can insert into the crank pulley to it from prevent turning. Then use a breaker bar to loosen the front pulley bolt. I cut out small section of the plastic lower cam belt cover, which allow you slip the cover over the crank. This only works if you are not replacing the oil pump. I've found that even having somebody step on the brakes there is to much wind-up in the drive train to loosen the crank bolt with out an impact gun. You may find a auto parts store that will rent or loan you an impact gun. The other thing is removing the lower cam belt pulley. I modified a [on the head valve spring compressor] so it fit behind the lower cam pulley to be able to pull it off the crank. On re-assembly lube the crank area to prevent any rust. Davew
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old April 14th, 2019, 18:13 Thread Starter
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I will be replacing the oil pump gasket, as well as the water pump since ill be right there. Yeah I was reading that it is pretty hard to get the crank pulley bolt off without an impact... doesn't look like anyone has an impact for rent. Might have to invest. Thank you for your response!
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old April 15th, 2019, 06:03
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It's been a while, but I think you can lock the flywheel in place by removing the small cover at the bottom of the bell housing and use a big flathead screwdriver to keep it in place. Use a quality socket, extension and breaker bar on the crank bolt. Obviously remove the rear tire. I used a jack-stand as a pivot for the end of the extension to keep everything in place. One good push and the bolt should break free.

Good luck.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old April 15th, 2019, 07:46
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Crank holders

If you have a welder you can make a holding tool. The long bar with two prongs fits into the front crank pulley. The smaller tool is for locking the flywheel. The problem would be that I used a small section of a flywheel ring gear, inserted thru the starter hole. [could try making a "V" to match gear teeth] A long headed bolt was used , which was backed outboard against the bellhousing, to lock the tool against the teeth for engagement. You could use a flat bar thru the starter hole to lock the flywheel, but it would be a 2 man job. The smallest tool is for locking the flywheel on a engine stand. Davew
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 06:03
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I have a good deck lid already drilled with the heavier spring that holds the extra weight if you're interested. The early production models had a different wing than later models if you are looking for a return to original (no 3rd brake light in the correct one), otherwise it doesn't matter. The last year model came with LED lights.

The radio also powers the amp under the driver's seat. You can unplug it and try to isolate the problem to one or the other. Some guitar amplifier repair shops will diagnose a radio.

The timing belt is a Pita. I bent a six point end wrench to match the angle of the a/c tensioner because it sometimes gets over tightened and you definitely don't want to round it off.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 17:00 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumhead View Post
I have a good deck lid already drilled with the heavier spring that holds the extra weight if you're interested. The early production models had a different wing than later models if you are looking for a return to original (no 3rd brake light in the correct one), otherwise it doesn't matter. The last year model came with LED lights.

The radio also powers the amp under the driver's seat. You can unplug it and try to isolate the problem to one or the other. Some guitar amplifier repair shops will diagnose a radio.

The timing belt is a Pita. I bent a six point end wrench to match the angle of the a/c tensioner because it sometimes gets over tightened and you definitely don't want to round it off.
I am interested in the deck lid you have. How much would it cost me? I am not sure which wing mine has as there is no third brake light attached to it.

Luckily I do not have a/c in my car as the previous owner removed it. As for the radio, I will try to disconnect the amp and see if that solves my issue. If not, I may look into fitting a more modern speaker system into the car as I do love listening to music during my drives.

I added pictures of my rear to potentially help.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 17:03 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davew View Post
If you have a welder you can make a holding tool. The long bar with two prongs fits into the front crank pulley. The smaller tool is for locking the flywheel. The problem would be that I used a small section of a flywheel ring gear, inserted thru the starter hole. [could try making a "V" to match gear teeth] A long headed bolt was used , which was backed outboard against the bellhousing, to lock the tool against the teeth for engagement. You could use a flat bar thru the starter hole to lock the flywheel, but it would be a 2 man job. The smallest tool is for locking the flywheel on a engine stand. Davew
Unfortunately I do not have a welder nor do I know how to weld just yet. I will have a friend helping me out for this task. I should be able to rent a flywheel lock from AutoZone and I believe they sell crankshaft pulley pullers too (even though I have heard they aren't able to get behind the pulley on the 4AGE that well). Also I will be doing this job with the engine in the car.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 18:38
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HEY JET MAN,

THE CRANK PULLEY IS INDEED DIFFICULT IF THE LAST PO DID NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE. FOR ME THE PROBLEM WAS THAT INNER TIMING GEAR AS WELL. MY 3 LEG PULLER REQUIRED THAT I GRIND/MODIFY THE LEG TO FIT. ON SEVERAL ENGINES I CUT THE BELT SURROUND TO ALLOW A FIT.

If YOUR GOING AT THE OIL PUMP AS I (AT 433k) RECENTLY REMEMBER IT'S A FORMED IN PLACE GASKET ALTHO I HAVE SEEN GOOF BALLS USE A CHEAP GASKET.
THEY PROBLEM W FIP IS THAT YOU WANT TO GOOP THE PAN HEAVILY WITHOUT SQUEEZING TOO MUCH INTO THE INTERIOR OFF THE PAN. THE USE OF MOTO-GASKET BY PERMANTEX FIXED THAT ISSUE BUT THE CURE TIME IS 24HRS.

LASTLY SOME CHEAP BELTS FLEX UNDER LOADS, THINK ABOUT THIS AS YOU STRETCH YOURS OVER THE TENSIONER. ROCKAUTO IS KNOWN FOR LOUSY QUALITY CONTROL ON THE "KITS" SINCE THEY LET THE SUPPLIERS RUN THE SHOW THERE NOW.

30 YEAR OWNER
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 22:40
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The correct one for your 85 doesn't have a light. Don't skimp on the belt, buy a Gates, and don't skimp on the tensioner. It would blow to swap one out because it was noisy. Nothing good can come of it.

Where are you located? I would want $75 for the lid and spring, as long as it's perfect, plus shipping. I want to pull it out in the sunlight as it's been stored in the shed for years. If you're anywhere around Illinois I could probably hook you up with just about anything you need.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 22:49
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I just noticed the thumbnails, that's the right one.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old April 18th, 2019, 23:56
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re: rockauto.com:

I haven't purchased any kits from them (see mr2tim's post above), but I've bought brake/suspension parts and some sensors for several vehicles almost exclusively from them and have usually had very good experiences. They recently sent me one of two completely incorrect rotors for my daily (a 97 Accord wagon), but they covered return shipping to send the wrong one back and shipping to send me the right one, so not the end of the world. That said, their choices for AW11 parts are sadly a bit limited. My one core return with them - an alternator for my MR2 - was very easy and painless and took only a minimal hit from the shipping cost.

When buying anything from them, do a bit of research to make sure it isn't garbage, because they definitely do sell plenty of junk as well as reliable alternatives. Just check reviews/forum posts after googling the part numbers in question.

Also, take your time to make sure you don't get hosed on shipping costs; you can almost always save a good deal of money by swapping out a part or two for something else here or there, since you'll end up with fewer shipments --> lower shipping costs.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old April 19th, 2019, 11:10
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I've had decent luck, and they have decent customer service. When I redid my Suby I signed up for a free month of Amazon Prime and saved a bunch of money.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old April 19th, 2019, 22:14 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumhead View Post
The correct one for your 85 doesn't have a light. Don't skimp on the belt, buy a Gates, and don't skimp on the tensioner. It would blow to swap one out because it was noisy. Nothing good can come of it.

Where are you located? I would want $75 for the lid and spring, as long as it's perfect, plus shipping. I want to pull it out in the sunlight as it's been stored in the shed for years. If you're anywhere around Illinois I could probably hook you up with just about anything you need.
I already purchased all the timing belt parts and ended up going with a Dayco kit. I have been told that they make good quality parts. Was going to get a high performance gates belt and tensioner but nobody had it in stock and would've cost like $140 for just the two parts with no seals or spring, which the prices for separately are ridiculous. Hopefully I didn't buy a lemon

I am located in Florida so a bit far from you. I can definitely do $75 for the lid and spring. Would you be able to send me pictures and details about the lid once you pull it out of storage?
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old April 19th, 2019, 22:22 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2tim View Post
HEY JET MAN,

THE CRANK PULLEY IS INDEED DIFFICULT IF THE LAST PO DID NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE. FOR ME THE PROBLEM WAS THAT INNER TIMING GEAR AS WELL. MY 3 LEG PULLER REQUIRED THAT I GRIND/MODIFY THE LEG TO FIT. ON SEVERAL ENGINES I CUT THE BELT SURROUND TO ALLOW A FIT.

If YOUR GOING AT THE OIL PUMP AS I (AT 433k) RECENTLY REMEMBER IT'S A FORMED IN PLACE GASKET ALTHO I HAVE SEEN GOOF BALLS USE A CHEAP GASKET.
THEY PROBLEM W FIP IS THAT YOU WANT TO GOOP THE PAN HEAVILY WITHOUT SQUEEZING TOO MUCH INTO THE INTERIOR OFF THE PAN. THE USE OF MOTO-GASKET BY PERMANTEX FIXED THAT ISSUE BUT THE CURE TIME IS 24HRS.

LASTLY SOME CHEAP BELTS FLEX UNDER LOADS, THINK ABOUT THIS AS YOU STRETCH YOURS OVER THE TENSIONER. ROCKAUTO IS KNOWN FOR LOUSY QUALITY CONTROL ON THE "KITS" SINCE THEY LET THE SUPPLIERS RUN THE SHOW THERE NOW.

30 YEAR OWNER
I am uncertain if the last owner used anti-sieze. My guess would be most likely not since the spark plugs I replaced were basically welded to the motor. I have heard many issues of the inner timing gear.

In regards to the oil pump, what do you mean by a formed in place gasket? (attached is an image of the oil pump gasket & seals)

I ended up not ordering any parts from RockAuto as the shipping cost was way too expensive and saved about $40 switching to Amazon.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old April 22nd, 2019, 01:18
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Sorry, I've been jammed up. I assume they mean Permatex grey or similar. It's an anirobic (sp) sealer for oil sealant. It's the ____ for pan seals. It's unlike other sealants and does a great job. It's a two torque process but it beats the hell out of gaskets or silicone.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old April 22nd, 2019, 16:36
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Front tear down.

JETTY,

JUST A REMINDER THAT REPLACING THE OIL PUMP AND/OR GASKET WILL REQUIRE LOOSENING THE FRONT OF THE OIL PAN. I WOULD SUGGEST A PUMP REPLACEMENT IF YOU HAVE A LEAKY GASKET/SEAL THERE. (IT HAS TO COME OFF ANYWAY, RIGHT )

YOU CAN TRY TO PULL THE CAM SEALS WITHOUT PULLING THE VALVE COVERS. TOOLS ARE THE KEY. ALSO CHECK THE BGB AND UNDERSTAND ALL THE SEALANT "STOPS" (AT THE ENDS OF THE COVERS) TO ADDRESS. ALSO NEW VALVE COVER RUBBER GASKETS AND THOSE CRUSHABLE UNDER BOLT WASHERS ARE NOT REUSABLE.

THE CRANK TIMING GEAR SHOULD BE CLOSELY INSPECTED. THE GROOVE THAT SUPPORTS THE KEY MUST BE >ONLY< PERFECT. USE OF A NEW OEM KEY IS HIGHLY ADVISED/ REQUIRED.

30 YEAR OWNER/RACER
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old April 22nd, 2019, 21:00
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I grabbed some pics of the truck lid. It's got some paint rubbed in one spot but isn't dented. Gonna wash it tomorrow for clearer pics.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old April 25th, 2019, 00:58 Thread Starter
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I grabbed some pics of the truck lid. It's got some paint rubbed in one spot but isn't dented. Gonna wash it tomorrow for clearer pics.
Sweet! Just PM me with the pics once you have them ready! And thank you!

Also in regards to my not working stereo, turns out that the previous owner removed the sub from underneath the driver's seat and there are a bunch of loose wires under there. Now I will have to do some electrical testing to figure out the problem.
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