wheel alignment - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2006, 02:14 Thread Starter
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wheel alignment

Hey
Im looking for the wheel alignment specs for the factory mk1 mr2.
Can anyone help me out?
Regards,
Dino
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2006, 13:02
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If you have BGB the factory alignment tolerances are in there.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2006, 15:25
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i do alignments all week long I can give you specs

do you have an 85-86 or 87+

the specs are slightly different
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2006, 17:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnvyMyDrifts
i do alignments all week long I can give you specs

do you have an 85-86 or 87+

the specs are slightly different
As just a reader of this thread, I'd like the 85-86 please... and I'm sure another lurker wants the 87+

p3

=)
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2006, 17:27 Thread Starter
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85-86 please
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2006, 00:12
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please post up the 87+ as well.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2006, 17:26
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I forgot to check the specs today, I will do it tomrorow and post them up around 6PM.

I know from memory it's similar to this:

+0.25 front camber
+5.08 caster
+0.08 front total toe
-0.75 rear camber
+0.40 rear total toe

now that's stock, but that not even close to an optimizred handling setting.

the postive front camber is to help induce understeer to make the car safer

and the relatively low caster is to make the car more nimble





I will post actual specs (as my Hunter DSP600 Alignment machine lists them) tomorrow.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2006, 21:19
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I would never recommend that anyone put positive camber on an MR2. I know the BGB says that, but I still wouldn't. Hey, they took rear sway bar off most of the MKIs - what do they know ? And that much rear toe in is crazy.

John
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2006, 16:51
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Dammit this time I wrote the specs down but left the paper at work. I guess you'll have to hold on one more day unless you can find the specs elsewhere.

Sorry homies.

- Tony
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2006, 17:47
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OK here it is my friends (All measurements are in degrees):

1985-1986 MK1 MR2

Front Camber +0.25
Caster +5.38
Front Total Toe +0.06
Rear Camber -0.75
Rear Total Toe +0.41


1987-1989 MK1 MR2

Front Camber +0.25
Caster +5.08
Front Total Toe +0.08
Rear Camber -0.92
Rear Total Toe +0.40


Here's What I Run (Daily Driven Performance Car):

Front Camber -1.00
Caster +6.00
Front Total Toe +0.12
Rear Camber -1.50
Rear Total Toe +0.24


I highly recommend my setup if you don't mind sacrificing some manuverability in return for more stabilty at highway speeds.

I have also experimented with the rear "caster" adjustments (Although my alignment machine does not list specs for that adjustment). You can extend your wheelbase, and even out your F/R weight distribution by moving your rear wheels back. I have moved the wheels furthur back and have practically completely dialed out oversteer (I like to be safe seeing as the highway is my favorite area to drive, and oversteer on the highway can result, potentially, in death).

Of course if you have a drag car, or autocross car, or some other set-up my settings would be far from ideal. But I hope I have given you some insight into the beautiful full-adjustabilty of our MR2s.

(BTW, it is EXTREMELY RARE to find another car with stock camber, caster, and toe adjustments at all 4 wheels.)
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2006, 17:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnvyMyDrifts
(BTW, it is EXTREMELY RARE to find another car with stock camber, caster, and toe adjustments at all 4 wheels.)
But yet most alignment shops will tell you that your car has no alignment settings or at least that the camber can not be adjusted.

Isn't over/under steer a result of your toe settings?
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2006, 17:10
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Over/Understeer characteristics are affected by a great many things, not just toe.

Sway Bars
Spring Rates
Shock Stiffness
Weight Distribution
Camber
Tire Grip

... Among Others

But because they can be affected by so many things, and toe is usually a very set value, I wouldn't change toe, just to achieve different over/understeer characterics. Too many other handling characteristics would change.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2006, 18:21
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EnvyMyDrifts - very impressive you were able to remember those numbers so well!

Sully
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2006, 18:39
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haha thanks bro, i've done about 1000 alignments in 6 months, so you can imagine, I can tell you about the suspensions of just about every car out there.

I can tell you what type of suspension, what is adjustable, and how it is adjustable for any car or light truck.

any questions?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2006, 00:17
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Would an 89sc use the 87+ setup, or are they different because of a rear sway bar? Thanks
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2006, 16:57
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Yes SC or NA matters not, they have the same specs. Just go by the year.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2006, 18:44
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thank you for posting these...
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2006, 00:33
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np bro
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2006, 03:37
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The only car's you'll find that have rear caster settings are all wheel steering cars. Caster = dynamic camber and only occurs when you're turning the steering wheel. I will most certainly not recommend negative caster for anyone that drives a car. Positive caster defines the angle at which the axis of rotation differs from the angle of support. I think that's how I want to say it.

Hold a CD with 2 fingers, one at the top and one at the bottom. When you turn the CD like a front wheel it just turns, it doesn't lean. Now hold it with your top finger closer to you and your thumb on the bottom away from you, and turn the CD. Notice how it leans in? Dynamic Camber. It maxes out within a safe range on the Mk1 and you can fairly safely get it set there. Maximizing your caster will increase the tendency for the steering wheel to turn itself in your direction of travel, similar to a shopping carts front wheels... that are also on... casters.

Do a search on caster, and you'll come up with a number of very long and detailed threads in the autocross and road race forums about it. There are also some good reads on the net if you google caster also.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old June 11th, 2006, 13:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnvyMyDrifts
OK here it is my friends (All measurements are in degrees):

1985-1986 MK1 MR2

Front Camber +0.25
Caster +5.38
Front Total Toe +0.06
Rear Camber -0.75
Rear Total Toe +0.41


1987-1989 MK1 MR2

Front Camber +0.25
Caster +5.08
Front Total Toe +0.08
Rear Camber -0.92
Rear Total Toe +0.40


Here's What I Run (Daily Driven Performance Car):

Front Camber -1.00
Caster +6.00
Front Total Toe +0.12
Rear Camber -1.50
Rear Total Toe +0.24


I highly recommend my setup if you don't mind sacrificing some manuverability in return for more stabilty at highway speeds.

I have also experimented with the rear "caster" adjustments (Although my alignment machine does not list specs for that adjustment). You can extend your wheelbase, and even out your F/R weight distribution by moving your rear wheels back. I have moved the wheels furthur back and have practically completely dialed out oversteer (I like to be safe seeing as the highway is my favorite area to drive, and oversteer on the highway can result, potentially, in death).

Of course if you have a drag car, or autocross car, or some other set-up my settings would be far from ideal. But I hope I have given you some insight into the beautiful full-adjustabilty of our MR2s.

(BTW, it is EXTREMELY RARE to find another car with stock camber, caster, and toe adjustments at all 4 wheels.)

What do you mean by rear "caster"? I thought caster was defined as being a steering angle?
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