My car was crashed at Watkins Glen - time for a new nose - Page 2 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2013, 08:28
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Nice!!!! Its coming together very well Bill. Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.
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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2013, 09:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donuteatinsob
Not to be too nosy but why did Lemons say no and Chump say yes? My experience with both is that Lemons pays less attention to safety equipment and more on cars being "stock" while Chump even goes so far as to check roll cage welds and safety equipment but care less about parts and pieces so long as the car is solid and not dropping fluids or parts on the track.
Where do you live? We've seen it to be the opposite in the Mid Atlantic/SE regions.
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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2013, 10:00
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looks nice ive been wanting to make a splitter for my car but have no faith in my cutting skills n get discouraged lol
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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old July 31st, 2013, 10:22 Thread Starter
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update.

I went offroad at Summit point and ended up moving the front of the splitter back which caused the splitter plywood to loop down like a bowl.

So I made a frame that the splitter plywood bolts to.



It worked well.
I had a right front ball joint break on a 120mph right hand kink. An off road excursion and the tire shoved into the spliter and it survived.



We are leading the 14 hour race.



I get a radio call that the other ball joint breaks and my driver crashed the car into the tire wall at speed. Driver was okay. car, not so.



video of the crash
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNptb...-hZFD3ULtRDr0Q

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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old July 31st, 2013, 10:31 Thread Starter
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My team and the Biohazard team jumped it to get the front fixed.



The frame held everything together, totally reusable. Just need to tweak some of the mounts. Going to redo the rear mount.




This was before the wreck. The front stays are made from aluminum. Just ordered some chromoly hex to replace the aluminum hex as the threads on the adjusters keep stripping. Going to relocate some of the mounts to better handle stresses in an impact so as to not bend.


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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old July 31st, 2013, 10:52
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glad everyone is safe.

Project 5S-GE: 180WHP/140LBS 2.2L Stroker NA On E85 (More WHP On The Way!):
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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old August 1st, 2013, 08:27
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Well good to see you didn't have to put old Yeller down.

Broke a ball joint myself a few weeks back in the 4runner but I was only going 5mph. Having that happen at 120 would be quite the butt puckering experience.

1993 MR2 turbo build TBD....
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I am still alive, just busy with life. Still got the MR2 sitting the in driveway. Someday it will be back on the road. When that will be only God knows. It will be really fast when it is though.
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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old August 1st, 2013, 13:42
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Man this car is so ugly no wonder the mr2 just kept going off road, it wanted to kill itself. And I hope the rules aren't that your car has to be valued under $500, clearly this is not.
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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old August 1st, 2013, 13:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenaline360
Man this car is so ugly no wonder the mr2 just kept going off road, it wanted to kill itself. And I hope the rules aren't that your car has to be valued under $500, clearly this is not.
Way to be a constructive participant in the conversation.
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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old August 2nd, 2013, 12:15
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any idea on why the ball joint broke?
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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old August 2nd, 2013, 16:42 Thread Starter
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yes. I made a huge mistake, I installed the rears on the front and the front on the rears. DON'T DO THAT.

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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:50
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ohh gosh thanks for the info on what not to do. I will be extra careful next time!
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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old August 4th, 2013, 22:08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenaline360
Man this car is so ugly no wonder the mr2 just kept going off road, it wanted to kill itself. And I hope the rules aren't that your car has to be valued under $500, clearly this is not.
i hope this is a joke. looking good was the idea to use wood for the splitter just cost? or whats the preference vs 6000 series aluminum

Last edited by matthewdunn; August 4th, 2013 at 22:20.
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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2013, 10:22 Thread Starter
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Wood has been used for splitters for decades. It is still used by many top teams even today. It is cheap and easily replaceable.

I can order a fiber reinforced plastic version, but it it breaks I am screwed. I would have to carry spares and that involves up front costs.

I can go to any Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a 4x8 sheet of plywood for $20. and every track has a DIY Home Improvement store near it.

Just like the yellow paint, I have made it a requirement to be able to get it at Lowes. Keeps costs down, and makes for easy repairs.

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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2013, 10:24 Thread Starter
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also, while aluminum is a great product, it is not the ideal product to use for splitters. Street racers and ricers love these high tech materials probably because chicks dig them. But it is not as forgiving as plywood. Plywood bends and will bend a lot without breaking, whereas aluminum will bend and stay bent.

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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2013, 20:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenaline360
Man this car is so ugly no wonder the mr2 just kept going off road, it wanted to kill itself. And I hope the rules aren't that your car has to be valued under $500, clearly this is not.
WTF does that have to do with this thread?! Ignore this guy....let's see what his car looks like crashing into a wall @ 120 MPH

Dude just be happy no one was hurt or died that day... it could have been you in that situation.

Some kids I swear
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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2013, 21:23
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understandable, i can see the logic. i help w/ doing bodywork on a modified, a late model and small time spent w/ spec racers. were using aluminum for these types of aerodynamic pieces. the concerns were moisture and impact resistance per weight. i see advantages in both materials, but i work w/ sheet and plate for a living so i've got cheap access to it. i wasn't concerned w/ the wood splitter you use. just wanted alittle insight as to why you chose that medium to make it from

as for wrecks and damages, in personal experience the plate/splitter come off the car in fairly good shape, but the mounts are generally destroyed

Last edited by matthewdunn; August 5th, 2013 at 21:45.
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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old August 5th, 2013, 23:35 Thread Starter
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exactly. i am redoing the mounts again. But each time they are getting better

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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old August 12th, 2013, 15:59
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Little off topic but, are you competing in EC class or Chump?

Just reading though the rule book and confused as to what class you're running seeing as how there's gotta be way more than $500 in value in that car... How does the EC class compare to Chump class? Are EC cars way over valued?
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old August 12th, 2013, 16:04
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Little off topic but, are you competing in EC class or Chump?

Just reading though the rule book and confused as to what class you're running seeing as how there's gotta be way more than $500 in value in that car... How does the EC class compare to Chump class? Are EC cars way over valued?
He does not run EC, and his car is a perfect example of how mind-boggling and convoluted the Chump valuation ruleset is. Believe it or not, under Chump rules, Bill's car is worth around $490.

EC class is pretty much 'run whatever you want, realizing that you'll be on track with a bunch of crap heaps and racers who don't care if they hit you' and the only limitation I'm aware of is tire TW. EC cars are not evaluated for value.

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