2gr-fe axle modifications directions - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2017, 20:01 Thread Starter
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Cool 2gr-fe axle modifications directions

So i get a fair number of questions about the axle modification to install a 2GR-FE so i figured i'd make a post about it and how i do it. Also for those that don't want to do it I'm adding this as a service i'll do for $65. It'll be on frankensteinmotorworks.com but there's a good chance a local machine shop can do it for less so do shop around.

Anyways, here's the part we start with, the right side stub:


note if you're sending it in to me please clean up all the grease out of here:


next the whole axle stub gets dissembled:


Then i mount it on the lathe and clean up all the surface rust from the bearing surface. i also make a quick pass over the rest of the axle to knock off any loose paint/rust. the lathe makes this step easier but it isn't strictly necessary.


Then to cut a new groove i use a lathe mounted grinder with a cut off wheel. i cut this abrasively because the axle is really hard and can be quite hard on tooling. the new groove is 2.4mm wide about 1.6mm deep and 10mm closer to the transmission than the stock groove. note that with a bit of creativity you can do this with some wood v-blocks, an angle grinder and a stop to rest it against. none of this stuff has to be terribly precise. the actual axle position can be +/- a few mm without issue.


I also cut a spacer, 10mm wide with a 1.625" ID. note that the 1.625" ID means you can just buy tube the right size. 1.75" exhaust tube will have a 1.62" ID. if you heat it up in the oven to about 500F it'll slip fit on the axle. Also, if you're cutting the axle groove without super precise equipment just cut this piece a bit long and then sand it's length down till everything is together and tight.


Then you just reassemble everything minus the bearing's extra dust shield since it won't hold anymore and you've got your modified axle:


note the bearing used in this is the kind that can take some misalignement. they feel sloppy even when they are in good shape.

hopefully this helps a few of you out there!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2017, 21:05
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Very helpful, thanks! I am just about to the point of doing this myself, and this saves me the figuring-it-out part of it, and just leaves the doing!


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2017, 21:20
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+1 on the abrasive grinder. I went through several cutters before I tried the grinder approach!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2017, 23:48
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The bearing disintegrated on removal. So I ordered new bearing and dust covers. Fortunately these parts are still available. In case anyone else needs them:

90080-36133 Front Wheel Bearing $21.90
43458-12010 Inner Cover $7.42
41336-32010 Damper Seal $2.55
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2017, 06:18 Thread Starter
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Frank, i'm not sure where those part numbers are from because the parts catalog i'm looking at shows different numbers:

bearing: 90369-41001
dust cover: 41336-12020

The dust cover next to the bearing does not matter since moving the bearing over by 10mm prevents it from being reinstalled anyways.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2017, 21:43
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I think those are new part numbers that supersede the originals from the MR2, and were automatically substituted when I placed the order from Conicelli/Partznet. Why they refer to it as a wheel bearing I'm not sure. Anyway everything fit.

cf: https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconsh...tr=90369-41001

PS. Come on, as someone said recently, give me a little more credit than that. LOL!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old February 17th, 2017, 05:43 Thread Starter
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You're right. I did not follow the supercession chain. the wheelbearing name is odd. the misalignment style bearing could never really be used for a wheel bearing.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old February 17th, 2017, 09:27
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This should be a "Sticky"!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old February 17th, 2017, 10:51
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That axle looks familiar...

On a related note, I'll be getting the 2GR installed in the car next week and firing it up for the first time - the finish line is in sight.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old September 29th, 2017, 01:42
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I'm not sure why you seem to have trouble turning the groove in the axle. I used a hard metal cutting tool and did not experience any problem. Sure, the material was hard, but I was able to cut it without issues. I used a tool similar to this and made sure it was sharp using a fine diamond grinding stone similar to the one below.





Then turned it on a weiler matador:


Last edited by decipherer; September 29th, 2017 at 01:59.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old September 29th, 2017, 06:24 Thread Starter
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the issue i have with some axles and why i switched to abrasive material removal is the axle isn't always a perfectly flat machined surface when you move the snap-ring over. if you're trying to machine something hard with an interupted cut that has an angle to it and a machine that isn't absolutely rigid and may have seen better days back in the day you'll get a crooked cut. but it's no big deal, if you were able to do it with your tools then that's all that matters.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old September 29th, 2017, 16:32
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I think my axle was already machined where I had to cut the groove. I can definitely see it being harder on the tool and lathe if that's not the case. And you're right, as long as it gets the job done it's ok. Just have to make sure to thoroughly clean off the abrasive material from the lathe. But I remember that being mentioned in an earlier thread also. -edit- just saw in your picture that you have a protective piece of cardboard. Very wise

On a side note, I only moved the groove a 1/4 inch (6.3mm) which I think I took from one of your older threads. You say the position can be off by a few mm, is there any special reason you changed to 10mm?

Found a picture of my axle in the lathe:

Last edited by decipherer; September 29th, 2017 at 16:35.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old September 29th, 2017, 18:27 Thread Starter
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The 1/4" measurement places the flange where i would expect it to be on the 3s-gte. for a few people that wasn't quite enough clearance for the shaft so the number got bumped up to 10mm and that has worked well for everyone.
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