Another UK V8 MR2 Conversion - Page 5 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #81 of 101 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2013, 10:40 Thread Starter
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Got the brackets made for the engine mounts too

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post #82 of 101 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2013, 17:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidnightBlueMR2
Please don't tell me your doing an auto........
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgh938peg
Errrr ..... no..?
What makes you think that?
The flex plate on your engine in one of the pics. I was wondering also.
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post #83 of 101 (permalink) Old July 17th, 2013, 04:34 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AndyA
The flex plate on your engine in one of the pics. I was wondering also.
Oh I see!

Right-e-ho!

Take a look just above the flex plate on the crank, directly in the middle of the V. You will see the pinion for the starter motor. Seems a shame to lose all that functionality ... I will be making a custom alloy flywheel to bolt to the flex-plate a la Fidanza style with a bolted on steel friction face. This will mate up to the Audi diesel clutch (which i already have too). I've got the old dual mass flywheel here (which will not be used) so I can copy all the pertinent dimensions I need from it.

Saying that.. Auto would be a pretty cool and lazy GT cruiser. Especially mated to a set of Goldy's paddle-shift arrangement. AFAIK, I did all the fabrication for the only MR2 V6 Auto in existence too. That's no slouch and is probably the ultimate GT style MR2, has won quite a few honours in the UK for S&S too....

Now supercharged.....




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post #84 of 101 (permalink) Old July 17th, 2013, 19:17
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more pics now!!!
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post #85 of 101 (permalink) Old July 17th, 2013, 21:02
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That last photo is awesome, got a high res link?
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post #86 of 101 (permalink) Old July 18th, 2013, 02:28 Thread Starter
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I'll dig out some more later and not got the high res sorry, i just robbed them from his project page on MR2OC.co.uk. He had a 7 page feature in Banzai last year. I'll find some more and stick them in a new thread.

Pictures do not do it justice in any way; it's far better in the flesh. Plus believe me; i did nothing in terms of finishing and polishing, that was all the owner (mr2big), I simply did the fabrication of custom engine mounts and a minor chassis alteration to get the Camry Auto box in.
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post #87 of 101 (permalink) Old July 19th, 2013, 12:16
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Excellent progress on this! I admire the craftsmanship. Also, great use of cardboard on the subframe, it's lightweight and cheap :P
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post #88 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 08:22 Thread Starter
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Sorry for little updates here... I find the 2 pic max very VERY tiresome and, being honest, It's pointless me becoming a paid member over on here.

Anyway, the stage I am up to now...

Enjoy.



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post #89 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 08:30
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cool progress so far..

Project 5S-GE: 180WHP/140LBS 2.2L Stroker NA On E85 (More WHP On The Way!):
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N/A Guys tune/replace and modify the items that are allegedly good till 700+WHP?
Quotes: deviantv1ral *5sge master* Medpilot *MR2 god*
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post #90 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 10:28
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I see you are using CAD-- Cardboard Aided Design.

Also, if you get a free membership to photobucket, you can post the img links here. The forum will allow you to post 5 links (not sure of the exact amount) this way.
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post #91 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 10:33 Thread Starter
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CAD - Cardboard Aided Design is sometimes the only way! Works a treat and gets you to your end goal pretty quickly - particularly on thin (1.2mm) sheet.

CAD - Computer Aided Design is how i did the rail extensions and strut towers. (AutoCAD 2013)



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post #92 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 10:37 Thread Starter
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This was the subframe after the 'budget' CAD work



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post #93 of 101 (permalink) Old November 6th, 2013, 10:52
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You might consider using Solidworks or Autodesk Inventor. These are both parametric solid modelers (history based). I use them both at work (my day job as an engineer) and for my 3D printer side business.

Unlike AutoCAD (i used to use that a long time ago), you start with a 3D model and then create drawings and the drawings are tied to the solid model-- update/change the model and the drawings auto-update.

Both have sheet metal tools. You design the sheet metal part in its final form. The software can then layout the sheet metal pattern in a flat form for you.

This is just a suggestion. The cardboard method is cheaper and easier to learn than 3D solid modeling software.
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post #94 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 07:26 Thread Starter
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Yeah ... I've been using AutoCAD for 18 odd years now (day job) .. We are in the process of converting all our standard parts over to Inventor - which is quite time consuming if you want to get all the relationships and constraints right. Even though I'm pretty good on Inventor now I still maintain I'll always be quicker on AutoCAD..
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post #95 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 10:28
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Ahh, ok, I did not know you were an engineer
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post #96 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 10:45 Thread Starter
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Ahh, ok, I did not know you were an engineer
My first 2 years were on drawing board ... still have a board somewhere in my loft space along with all my Rotring pens. Those were the days!
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post #97 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 10:50
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yes, back in the early 90's seemed like the stone ages. I learned to draft with paper (vellum) pencil and a "drafting machine" which was just a fancy square on a articulating parallel arm, oh and don't forget the large angled desk (drafting table). When I learned 2D cad (Cadkey, then later AutoCAD), I liked it a whole lot more. Easier to make changes to drawings, and to get exact measurements off the drawing.

I really like the 3D modelers, especially because I can 3D print a lot of smaller parts.

But the real benefit of 3D modelers is putting parts into assemblies and doing FEA analysis and tolerance (and interference of parts fits) analysis.
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post #98 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 10:58
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Originally Posted by dgh938peg
This was the subframe after the 'budget' CAD work

You cut out a lot of support in the middle.. Are you going to make a horse shoe mount that goes over the transmission and bolts to both sides of the cross member to give it back some support since you removed most of it?
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post #99 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 11:06 Thread Starter
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I'm not sure on that one eazy. I cut down to the seam line of the subframe so there's about 30mm of meat left. When I cut that thing it did not move a single millimetre; which was pleasing to see! However I agree that removing half of the thickness will make it considerable weaker. I will be having some form of box section hoop over the gearbox so there would be plenty of stiffness to tie back into there..... From an engineers standpoint, it would make more sense to do it than not to!

Seems like I have talked myself into that one
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post #100 of 101 (permalink) Old November 7th, 2013, 11:08
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Did you see how Mike_H solved the same crossmember problem with his ABZ/Audi Transaxle in his Mk2?

I think I posted the photos somewhere on this board, but you can also see them at my mv8r website.
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