TRD Widebody Kit Install Guide - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 58 (permalink) Old February 22nd, 2005, 18:20 Thread Starter
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TRD Widebody Kit Install Guide

Let me start out by saying that I?m no means claiming to be an expert on this. I have done two MR2 Wide Body Kits each time there is a new challenge.

Use what I have provided here as a guide, a lot of it is trail and error and how lucky you get with the kit fitment. There may be a better way to do it, but this is what has worked for me. Be easy on me if I said something wrong it has been over a year since I have last done the last install.

Lesson Number One: It will take more time than you think. After awhile I just stopped counting.

You will have 13 pieces to deal with; so recruiting a friend is very helpful.

Ok Let?s Start


Rear Quarters
Personally I would start at the rear of the car, just because this tends to be the hardest part. You have to make the choice now if you want to cut out your fenders and keep the stock gas cap. If you do not cut the fenders then you will have to roll them. This is the easiest route, but limits the size of rims you can run.

You need to test fit the upper rear quarter panels first. Start with the left side with the gas cap. Line up the rear edge of the quarter panel with the trunk seam and screw one corner in place, check to see that the gas cap hole is where it should be and then work your way forward temporally running screws in until you are sure of the fitment.

When you are sure about the fitment, use Panel adhesive on the quarters and screw them in place. For the glue check local auto paint stores for something by 3M, SEM or some larger brand name. Do not glue anything down until the whole kit has been mocked up. If you need to tweak something is easier to do with the panels just screwed in. Note: You must also scuff sand anywhere you intend to glue with 80-180 grit sand paper.

On both of my cars I did not use the stock gas cap location. One I used a motorcycle cap and the other was a NA so I relocated the filler cap inside the engine bay, by sectioning the gas filler tube and making a bracket that attached to the stock breather location. The best example of a factory gas cap location can bee seen on Chicorace works web site

Chicoraceworks Wide Body

You will have to fabricate a mounting system similar to this for the gas filler door to function like normal.

The lower ? Panels and rocker panels

Once the top rear ? panel sections are set. The lower ? panels can be drilled and bolted to the upper sections. Above the engine scoops you can bolt the top and bottom parts of the kit together. This joint should be fiber glassed over before you start adding body filler.


Do the same for the rocker panel. Attach the front of the lower rocker panel to the bottom of the front fenders with two bolts. This is on the inside of the fender and will not be seen. The outside gap between the upper and lower fender should be fiber glassed together, as you did with the rear section. The lower rocker panel section (the part directly under the door) should be attached with pop rivets and panel adhesive to the lower door section. The rocker panels will need to be trimmed to fit in the lower door area with a cutoff wheel. You will have to trim a lot of the kit off to make the door jambs fit correctly and then fiberglass them in. Make sure that you trim enough off the lower portion (under the doors) that after you add filler the doors will close properly and not slowly scuff your paint off.

Problem spots:

Fitment the rear quarters took me and one other guy quite a while to wrestle into place. This is where it helps to have an extra set of hands with a screw gun ready. Once the kit is fit up you can loosen the screws and apply panel adhesive in-between the body and kit. Then simply screw the kit back down until it dries.

Last edited by Streetscenes; February 11th, 2009 at 17:45.
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post #2 of 58 (permalink) Old February 22nd, 2005, 18:21 Thread Starter
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Door Jambs: Most kits overlap the door jamb area and do not fit. Your best bet is to cut the lip off and fiberglass it into the jamb area yourself.

Trunk: the fitment in the trunk is the same way as the jambs.

Front Dog House (Fenders and Bumper)

You need to remove the front bumper and fenders, use a 10 mm socket and the BGB for location on bolts. There are quite a few of them up front.


Taken from orphan40's post

?For the front bumper, flip your lights to the 'up' position, take off the black trim around the lights, take off the black plastic shroud over your radiator, remove the 6 bolts and one nut from the top of the bumper, remove the tray under the bumper, remove the black clips from the top of the radiator opening in the bumper, then remove the corner lights, remove the side molding via the 2 10mm nuts on the back of each, remove the screws behind the side molding, then remove the two bolts going from the bumper into the front edge of the fender on both sides (these are a pain to get to). For the fenders, remove the 4 or 5 bolts on the top part of the fender (except for one to keep it in place until you are ready to take it off), remove the two bolts on the bottom of the fender (towards the door, going up from the bottom), there are two bolts going in the doorjamb side of the fender, the one at the top goes in from the door side, and the other one at the bottom goes in from the inside of the fender well. ?

The Fenders

The WBK fenders and bumper bolt on the factory locations. You might have to elongate a bolt hole to get them to line up (depending of kit fitment). You can come back later and take them off and rebuild them from fiberglass if you have to. The bumper goes on just like the factory one. I fabricated some lower bumper supports brackets that attach before the wheel wells to the front bumper. Some kits will have a large gap between the bumper and fenders. You will have to make fiberglass extension on to the front of the fender to get a factory fit. You will have to fill that empty space with something solid so that when it flexes you do not end up with cracks. I used a small scrap of thin plywood cut to the fender couture. Drill bolts holes through the bumper/plywood/fender combo. Before I tightened the bolts down, I mixed up some fiber glass resin and applied to the joint. Then I came back and fiber glassed over it with a heavy mat cloth. It has survived pretty well.


Problem spots:

Fender holes not aligning

Fenders to Bumper Clearance to short:

Rear Bumper

The bumper bolts directly to the upper ? panel sections and should also be fiber glassed in. The tail light can now be set in as well. If your lucky the lights will fit ok, if not you will have to lay some foam in the taillight section and lay in fiberglass to fill the difference.

Trunk and Wing

Align the trunk filler piece with the rear quarters and attach it with rivets and adhesive. The side edges and (bottom inside the trunk) will need to be fiber-glassed solid because the edges will not be long enough.


The old wing needs to come off and become a shelf or what ever you chose to do with it. You will soon realize how heavy that thing is (one pro for going wingless) It is best to weld up the holes solid with a Mig. welder if you can. The wing installs easy, except for the bases, which will need some filler to make them sit flush with the car.


Problem Spots:

Trunk/Wing pieces are too short

Once ever thing is attached you can spend the some time filling and sanding the highs and lows of the kit. I will say that the smartest thing I did with the kit was to put it in primer and drive is ?spirited? for a few weeks. That way you can find out if you did every thing right.

Happy Sanding

Sean

Last edited by Streetscenes; February 11th, 2009 at 17:43.
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post #3 of 58 (permalink) Old February 23rd, 2005, 01:47
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nice tips. I want to do the wide body soon also ;D
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post #4 of 58 (permalink) Old February 23rd, 2005, 23:37
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Good write up, maybe people will stop bitching about there not being enough information on it. If i can think of anything to add i will.
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post #5 of 58 (permalink) Old February 24th, 2005, 17:36
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good job... i'm planning to do a WB soon and now with this intructions i could go head a do it ....thanx a lot for the info
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post #6 of 58 (permalink) Old February 24th, 2005, 19:26 Thread Starter
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No problem. I hope this helps. Blake feel free to add anything.

Still working on pics.

Sean
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post #7 of 58 (permalink) Old February 24th, 2005, 19:44
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thanks again Sean
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post #8 of 58 (permalink) Old June 16th, 2005, 16:34
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Cool write up.

What TRD look alike replica kits are there? And which one has the highest quality of fitment, materials, durability, etc...
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post #9 of 58 (permalink) Old July 10th, 2005, 23:32
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Have you been able to upload any pics yet?

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post #10 of 58 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2005, 01:06
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I been debating on what to do. I have two MR2's my 92 NA hardtop and 91t - with the T-tops. The NA was wrecked and I'm going to have it rebuilt completely. It was my first real car and it's mainly sentamental value why I'm going to rebuild the poor thing. But I was thinking about putting the Border kit on my NA that it had before it's argument with a wall and a wide body kit for my turbo. But who has the best fit and finish out there. Even replica kits are not all created equal. KBX makes a good border kit but who makes a good wide body kit. Does anyone know who to get kits from I live close to body tune and looks like I just have to go harass them to death LOL.
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2005, 09:52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilma800
Cool write up.

What TRD look alike replica kits are there? And which one has the highest quality of fitment, materials, durability, etc...
www.extremedimensions.com has a TRD kit, www.body-tune.net also has one, www.takakaira.com has the authentic TRD kit, and www.visracing.com has a TRD replica
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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2005, 10:12
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I shouldve bought mine straight from takakaira...I couldve save a lot of money for the installation...
post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2005, 10:52
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the authentic from takakaira is a bit too much $$$ for me
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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old July 11th, 2005, 17:18
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This is officially a sticky...,.

Resident Auto Appearance, Detail, Paint and Body Guy
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RIP. Norm, you will be missed.
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old July 12th, 2005, 08:11 Thread Starter
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Thanks 8Legs. I guess I have to get in gear and post pics.... look here for a start. http://cincitycustoms.com/rides.htm It's in the 92 MR2 section.
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post #16 of 58 (permalink) Old August 9th, 2005, 02:56
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COLOR]

Last edited by mr. widebody; August 19th, 2005 at 01:36.
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post #17 of 58 (permalink) Old October 16th, 2005, 18:27
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The link in the first post needs to be updated (there is a period on the end that shouldn't be there)

It should just be: http://www.chicoraceworks.com/gallery/crw-widebody

-G-
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post #18 of 58 (permalink) Old November 14th, 2005, 18:07
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what is the trick to putting the wbk rear bumper on

I have looked at all the kits, the bumpers all have that flare out near the rear outer edge of the wheel well on the rear bumper. This particular area will not "clear " the corner of the mr2 rear wheel well lip.. Suggestions? I tried mounting it several times and that seems to be the only area that is hindering the fit. Fiberglass kit, VIS racing. Any help appreciated.
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post #19 of 58 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2006, 18:40
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can anybody describe in more detail how to take off the rear bumper? I looked underneathe and I dont see any bolts... I need to replace mine. I bought the car widebodied so I really don't know how it was fit in. Thanks
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post #20 of 58 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2006, 19:14
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is it molded on the car?
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