DIY brake ducts - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 12:26 Thread Starter
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DIY brake ducts

I recently fabbed up some brake ducts for my '91 Turbo after experiencing brake fade at the track. I tried to make them look like they belong on the car, while making them as functional as possible. As you can see from the pics below- they feed from the stock fog light location, through the fender, and into a modified backing plate. This gets the cool air directly into the center of the rotor.

Since I put them in, I've had no fade problems at all!

I used 3" high temp silicone ducting from Racer Parts Wholesale: Thermoid High-Temp Ducting - 600 Degree Aircraft Silicone Ducting
An 11' section was enough to get it done, with a little left over.

My car had factory fogs- they needed to come out permanently for this to work.

Start by removing the underbody panels that attach to the front lip. Then remove the plastic panel that was behind the fog lamp.


Plastic shroud panel behind the fog light.


Remove it from behind the bumper. There are two plastic "rivets" holding it in place. One's visible from the front, the other's hidden underneath.


I picked up some 3" to 4" duct adapters at Lowe's.


Cut down the 4" side, so that it's almost flush.


Put the adapter in the upper outside corner, and use a sharpie to outline the inlet.

Continued...
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File Type: jpg IMG_0222-400.jpg (29.7 KB, 55 views)

Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 18:45. Reason: Fixed broken images
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 12:26 Thread Starter
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Cut out the hole for the inlet. I used a spiral cutting bit in my dremel- it works great on plastic, but makes a huge mess...

I used Gorilla tape to block off the area that wouldn't be filled by the inlet.

Fit the inlet in place.

Put the plastic plate back in place.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0224-400.jpg (29.1 KB, 56 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_0238-400.jpg (25.0 KB, 54 views)

Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 18:58. Reason: Fixed broken images
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 12:27 Thread Starter
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The backing plate- rotor inlet.


Remove your rotor- take a pair of tin snips and cut down the backing plate. I went ahead and trimmed as much as I could, while leaving some barriers in place near the suspension attachments.
Be sure to leave the "scoop" mostly intact!
I cut the scoop into 3 strips, so I'd have something to attach to.


Make a 3" tube out of aluminum flashing. Use the duct to make sure it's the right size.





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File Type: jpg IMG_0291-400.jpg (17.5 KB, 55 views)

Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 19:01. Reason: Fixed broken images
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 12:28 Thread Starter
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You'll need to figure out the right angle for the inlet, and trim it to fit.

Drill the 3 "fingers" that you made from the backing plate scoop, and pop-rivet the inlet to them.


You'll want to make this into an oval near the center of the rotor, so that more air hits the eye.


Cut an oval in the fender liner. I used the slanted area next to the tie-down eye. Don't make it too big at first- it's easy to enlarge it if it's too small.

Slide the duct through the hole, and up towards the inlet you made.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_0235-400.jpg (30.2 KB, 54 views)

Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 19:04. Reason: Fixed broken images
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 12:45 Thread Starter
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Passenger side

Driver's side

Driver side- routing around the A/C receiver

Attach the hose to the backing plate inlet, use a stainless hose clamp.
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Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 19:11. Reason: Fixed broken images
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 13:03 Thread Starter
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Extra long tie-wraps are your friend...


Passenger side routing.


Driver's side routing

Make sure you mount your widest tires- and adjust the route so that nothing hits. Be sure to try this at extreme steering angles!

You can squeeze the ducts to ovalize them for clearance.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0311-400.jpg (34.0 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0312-400.jpg (32.9 KB, 55 views)

Last edited by lspector; October 20th, 2016 at 19:13.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old June 21st, 2009, 15:57
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Great work, this looks like an essential modification for any track goer. Bravo.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old June 22nd, 2009, 00:56
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pretty clever like it.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old June 22nd, 2009, 11:51
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i would like to see how it holds up.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old June 22nd, 2009, 18:26 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments people!

They've survived 6 track days so far, including a couple of lawn mowing excursions... The only sign of wear is a little bit of scuffing on one of the hoses where a tire must've rubbed.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old June 23rd, 2009, 16:01
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Looks good

Did you make any block off plates for when it rains?
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old June 23rd, 2009, 16:30
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Nice! Any pics of of front from a distance?
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old June 23rd, 2009, 21:35 Thread Starter
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Here's a view from the front- with my solution for rain. Racer's tape!

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old June 24th, 2009, 17:30
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Nice work. Can I see a pic from the front w/o the tape on it.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old June 25th, 2009, 06:10 Thread Starter
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This is the best head-on view I've got at the moment.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old June 29th, 2009, 23:57
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very nice .. looks solid and i hope to do this one of these days
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old September 10th, 2009, 16:48
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Just bought most of the materials to do this at Lowes racing and installed
the LF scoop. With some creative use of a dremmel, I did it without removing
the bumper or the little black blockoff piece. I have the 1991 NA bumper
without factory fogs, so part of it blocks the scoop. I think it ought to work
OK though. I'll have to wait for the actual ducting to arrive to complete the
install.




Last edited by phatvw; September 10th, 2009 at 16:51.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old September 10th, 2009, 18:03
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sweet
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old September 19th, 2009, 08:34
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idealy tho, your suposed to direct the air in the vents when u have a vented rotor it will be way more efficiant at cooling then facing flat the disc
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old September 19th, 2009, 13:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodouble
idealy tho, your suposed to direct the air in the vents when u have a vented rotor it will be way more efficiant at cooling then facing flat the disc

???

The ducts ARE facing the vents and air is directed towards the middle of the inner section of the rotor for best cooling. Of course some air will hit the inner swept area of the rotor too. Can't avoid that. Remember that air is ejected from the edge of the rotor due to centrifugal force and is sucked in at the middle

If you notice in this pic:


The duct is basically as close as you can get to the wheel hub. So its as close as you can get to the inner rotor vents. How would you do it differently without fabbing a custom flange?

Last edited by phatvw; September 19th, 2009 at 13:35.
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