clutch pedal squeek PERMANENT fix!!! - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 102 (permalink) Old March 8th, 2007, 20:57 Thread Starter
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clutch pedal squeek PERMANENT fix!!!

On my mk2 I've changed the clutch pedal pin and plastic bushing about twice now since over time the little plastic bushing will wear away and the pin will actually wear a slot into the pedal. So my solution was to get a sealed ball bearing in its place. I got a 5/16" I.D x 1/2" O.D x 5/32 thickness bearing from a hobby store for $5 and a 1/2 inch drill bit. After removing the pedal assembly the pin was worn in and the hole on the pedal was slotted. Now its buttery smooth!! Heres pics hope it answers most of your questions. If you need a new pin, you can order a new one or go to a junkyard.





Another little mod I did was on the clutch clevis. As most of us know the clevis can twist since its not solid inside eventally breaking. My solution was to take apart the clutch clevis and weld in place an equal lenthed pipe, therefore making it solid. I went through a junkyard to get another clutch clevis from other toyotas since they are the same. The reason why I broke so many is because of my stiff aftermarket 6 puck clutch.Well this solved my probem for good.

Last edited by TURBRO; March 8th, 2007 at 23:03.
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post #2 of 102 (permalink) Old March 8th, 2007, 21:00
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Nice job! My clutch pedal squeaks too. Thanks for the fix.
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post #3 of 102 (permalink) Old March 8th, 2007, 21:48 Thread Starter
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I like this fix since its $5 at a hobby shop and a 1/2" drill bit which means no wait at toyota. Also skateboard bearings have a 5/16" ID so they would work, but since the OD is usually pretty big it wouldn't work too well on the pedal since there isn't much metal.

here another pic. (the bearing is in there pretty snug and tight, but in case it wants to pop out the washers are there to keep it in place)


and heres a pic of a typical broken clutch clevis:

Last edited by TURBRO; March 8th, 2007 at 21:57.
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post #4 of 102 (permalink) Old March 8th, 2007, 23:39
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nice job man. now i know why you wanted to know where the hobby shop was. keep the fab work coming dude! as for me, i think the clutch squeak lets me know the power is coming and since when do you care mr burnout at every intersection?
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post #5 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 09:35
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Gump, you're a _____ genious!!
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post #6 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 10:38
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Wow, thanks for this writeup! Awesome pictures too!, its hard to get good shots at that angle, haha.

ERIK
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post #7 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 14:08 Thread Starter
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NP guys. It's best to take plastic panel off and the air duct connecting the air vents, so theres more room to move around under the dash.
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post #8 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 16:53
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Wow, this is great. The clutch on my 90 4Runner has been squeaking for the last year or so. This looks like the solution for it. Thanks for the great writeup & pics.
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post #9 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 17:16
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great fix bro.. you should sell the clevis'!! i don't know how to weld, i'm sure people will buy a few.
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post #10 of 102 (permalink) Old March 9th, 2007, 20:49 Thread Starter
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Well heres a solidworks drawing I did in 15 min, now we just need a cnc machine.....
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post #11 of 102 (permalink) Old March 11th, 2007, 15:52
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ooh solidworks.. how fun
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post #12 of 102 (permalink) Old May 20th, 2007, 10:08
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TURBRO,

How did you get your entire clutch assembly off? I just started trying to perform this mod and have already hit a bump in the road. I removed 2 bolts and one nut that appear to hold the assembly in place. Then I found out that it appears one part of it is welded to the body. Is this not true? Am I missing another bolt or nut?
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post #13 of 102 (permalink) Old May 20th, 2007, 21:30
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I hit another bump. I don't think the 5/16" ID of the sealed bearing is correct. I decided to test the pin through the bearing before I went further. It would not fit. Anyone else run into this problem?

Still a great mod, though. Perhaps the dimensions listed are just off?

I have gone back to stock for the moment.
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post #14 of 102 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2007, 09:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubblebutt
I hit another bump. I don't think the 5/16" ID of the sealed bearing is correct. I decided to test the pin through the bearing before I went further. It would not fit. Anyone else run into this problem?

Still a great mod, though. Perhaps the dimensions listed are just off?

I have gone back to stock for the moment.
did you drill it out as stated?
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post #15 of 102 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2007, 09:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triad_work
did you drill it out as stated?
you drill the pedal not the bearing, right? i'm saying that the pin won't fit through the bearing.

sorry if there was any confusion.
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post #16 of 102 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2007, 10:08 Thread Starter
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ya you drill out the pedal not the bearing. It's definetly a 5/16 ID, I mean if your pin has been worn out and become lopsided then it won't fit obviosly, but try sanding it a lil to make it a smooth all around so it will slide into the bearing clean.

Last edited by TURBRO; May 22nd, 2007 at 10:11.
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post #17 of 102 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2007, 10:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBRO
ya you drill out the pedal not the bearing. It's definetly a 5/16 ID, I mean if your pin has been worn out and become lopsided then it won't fit obviosly, but try sanding it a lil to make it a smooth all around so it will slide into the bearing clean.
very odd. i tried to slide a brand new pin into the bearing and it wouldn't even come close to fitting. i checked my old pin and bushing with my new ones in case the sizes changed but they were identical.

i'll be going back to the hobby store to make sure they gave me the right size. with a ruler it appears to be correct or maybe just a tad small which would explain my problem.

how did you remove the clutch pedal assembly? wasn't it welded to the body of the car?
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post #18 of 102 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2007, 21:41
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I just did this fix today and I have to say it feels great. Minus the low engagement on the clutch

Thanks Turbro for the Macguyver fix

I had to use a flat metal file to shave down the pin a bit. I would say it took about 10 mins for it. I also suggest that you put two washers on each side (4 total) to make it solid. I used small washers so the width of them is pretty small. Now to do something about that clevis pin...

I was thinking of make the clevis pin longer in length, therefore, giving more slack for those that have aftermarket clutches that engage real low.

This fix is a must for those that have the "hamster wheel" clutch pedal syndrome!
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post #19 of 102 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2007, 01:13
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^Did you remove the clutch pedal assembly to drill out the hole? If so, how did you remove it? I tried but couldn't.

I also tried to drill with the pedal in but didn't have enough room for a power drill. Even spent money on a 1/2" drill bit and a right angle adapter.
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post #20 of 102 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 03:29
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Turbro, quick question. Where did you find the solid pipe to weld on the clevis? Thanks.
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