clutch pedal squeek PERMANENT fix!!! - Page 5 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #81 of 102 (permalink) Old February 26th, 2010, 13:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Dorn
My clutch has been squeaking since I bought my car almost five years ago; I just never thought anything of it...looks like I have another winter project now
A word of advice to anyone attempting this repair:
Spend a couple of hours in the car and try to remove the clutch pedal assembly before you order the parts. I removed my driver's seat , and used a pillow and it was still a very uncomfortable experience. It's easy just to remove and replace the stock pin with a new stock pin and use a new stock bushing. Slather on some grease and call it good. Just my two cents.
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post #82 of 102 (permalink) Old April 20th, 2010, 02:24
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My Mr2 started doing this last week, should i be worried that there is a "time limit", till it completly goes out? and It wasn't metioned but to me its sounds like the squeaking is coming from underneath the car, but i can feel it in the pedal too.
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post #83 of 102 (permalink) Old April 20th, 2010, 10:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyioutta33
My Mr2 started doing this last week, should i be worried that there is a "time limit", till it completly goes out? and It wasn't metioned but to me its sounds like the squeaking is coming from underneath the car, but i can feel it in the pedal too.
If your squeaking is coming from underneath the car and you feel it in the pedal, you probably have a worn clutch throwout bearing instead. Not a big deal. Just annoying.
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post #84 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 16:10
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Anyone else done what Servin has?

I want to do this, Im sick of our crappy feeling stock clutch, but I want to know which one of those clevis' I should buy.
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post #85 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 17:27 Thread Starter
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On the first page you will see that I've welded the stock clevis, so that it's solid. I also have ordered similar clevis' found on Sylvan's page; I may have a few still laying around and willing to sell, will save you on shipping...

The solid clevis is worth it, I didn't have a choice since I was breaking the stock ones due to having a stiff clutch...

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post #86 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 17:38
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^ Charles, I'll hold you to that if it's needed. I gotta see if the pedal squeeks when I get down to Su's.
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post #87 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 17:53
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I saw about welding the stock clevis. To be honest I think the ones in Servins post are more elegant looking and I like the idea of adjusting the clevis length too.

Turbro, PM me what you got, ill prolly just buy what you have so I can play with em.
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post #88 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 18:36
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just be patient and we are in the process of having a custom clevis made to compliment the clutch pedal roller bearing

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post #89 of 102 (permalink) Old January 24th, 2011, 18:52
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Aiight Josh.
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post #90 of 102 (permalink) Old January 25th, 2011, 12:59
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I went with the solid clevis from mcmaster.com and it is fantastic. Combined with the single port slave cylinder, my clutch throw was nearly cut in half. I love it.

Last edited by LigerZero; January 25th, 2011 at 13:04.
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post #91 of 102 (permalink) Old February 27th, 2011, 23:38
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I somewhat tackled this mod yesterday, i ran into a couple problems along the way though.

First my pedal assembly wouldnt come out no matter how hard i tried so i just disconnected the actual part of the pedal that needs drilling from the assembly.

Second, my 1/2 drill bit made a hole just a little bit bigger and my bearing slides in and out freely. I used some washers to keep it in, but now i fear that it makes a clicking type noise from the tiny bit of play there is. Was also thinking it might not feel as solid and wear down the bearing faster. Any ideas of what to do? I was thinking a thin smear of jb-weld then some sanding/filing.

Also after all that my bushing looked brand new and wasnt the source of the squeak! It sounds like its coming from the rod that goes from the clevis into the firewall. Might hit it with some white lithium grease.

Also my clevis looks like it is flexing pretty bad but not broken. Seems kinda jenky. Whats the difference between the longer vs shorter than stock clevis? Also how is the clevis taken off?

Any recomendations, advice or ideas are appreciated!
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post #92 of 102 (permalink) Old March 24th, 2011, 04:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvan
I was inspired by this thread to do a little bit of research in case anyone wanted some more options. With some trial and error I came up with the following parts that may work well for most people. I found 2 clevis rod ends with the proper M8x1.25 RH thread, one is .25" shorter than stock, and one is .25" longer than stock. You would have to look at your rod end to see how many threads you have to determine whether to get the shorter or longer one. I did a test fit on my rod and I found the longer one to be good for me, since I was nearly all the way backed out with my stock unit.

They both have 5/16" ID pin holes and have about 5/16" in between the two flanges. They accept the Koyo B-55 bearing as discussed in the above posts. I wrote the websites and part numbers for ordering in the pictures, but in case it's not very legible, I'll repeat them here:

Koyo B-55 bearing - $6.18
www.applied.com
Item # 7393291

Longer clevis rod end - $6.70
www.midwestcontrol.com
Item # 28024077

Spring clevis pin for above rod end - $4.68 sold separately
www.midwestcontrol.com
Item # SP2802

Shorter clevis rod end - $6.87 (spring clip pin included with this part)
www.mcmaster.com
Item # 2448K48

By the way Midwest Control Products has a large range of sizes and I believe they can do custom sizes as well. I recommend you give them a look for special projects.

(Click thumbnails for a larger image)


Here is a shot of the assembled rod end with pin and B-55 bearing:

i was inspired by this thread also and have just released the solid roller clevis!

comes with the clevis itself for those with the bearing already or as a complete kit with the fitted clutch pedal bearing we offer (12mm OD 8mm ID)

https://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=417544

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post #93 of 102 (permalink) Old April 11th, 2011, 15:16
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**FINISHED PRODUCT**


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post #94 of 102 (permalink) Old May 11th, 2011, 18:14
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First post! Just bought a MR2 couple weeks ago and loving it every moment.

I have a squeaking clutch too. But the squeaking sound came from the bottom of the car when I apply clutch (near the rear wheel), not the pedal area. Will this fix it or should i look elsewhere? Thanks for your direction in advance.
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post #95 of 102 (permalink) Old May 11th, 2011, 18:41
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could be the clutch fork squeaking back there

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post #96 of 102 (permalink) Old May 11th, 2011, 19:15
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This might help, sorry for the poor pic.


In this pic here, see the socket and wrench? Look below that a little ways, and you can barely make out a rubber accordion style boot covering the rod that touches the clutch fork. You can barely see the end of the fork sticking out in the pic as well.

I just took some lithium grease and sprayed it in between the two parts, and the squeek went away. You could probably use any multi-purpose grease. This is sort of tough to get to though. Forreference, that duct tape is covering the turbo inlet.
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post #97 of 102 (permalink) Old May 12th, 2011, 00:05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Signorino
This might help, sorry for the poor pic.


In this pic here, see the socket and wrench? Look below that a little ways, and you can barely make out a rubber accordion style boot covering the rod that touches the clutch fork. You can barely see the end of the fork sticking out in the pic as well.

I just took some lithium grease and sprayed it in between the two parts, and the squeek went away. You could probably use any multi-purpose grease. This is sort of tough to get to though. Forreference, that duct tape is covering the turbo inlet.
Thank you both. I'll look into it tomorrow. The picture is very helpful. Thanks again.
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post #98 of 102 (permalink) Old May 13th, 2011, 12:01
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I replaced the clutch cylinder and my squeak went away.
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post #99 of 102 (permalink) Old July 1st, 2011, 02:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex W
Nice find on that midwestcontrols clevis. I am guessing that most people will want the longer than stock one, I know I only have a few threads of engagement on my stock clevis.
I looked at my 93T stock clevis and where it was adjusted at (I have never needed to adjust it, so i assume it still at factory setting) and decided the mcmaster-carr "short" clevis and pin was the right one to get. The OEM clevis was almost bottomed out on the pushrod (almost no threads showing).

I ordered it and installed it, and it works perfectly. I made sure that I moved the jam nut so that the pin of the new clevis was in the same relative position as the old clevis. This meant unscrewing the jam nut a few turns.

I looked at my 91na, and it appears to require the long clevis from Midwest controls. Its set at a different point on the clutch master pushrod than my 93T was set at. It has a lot more threads showing.

I am posting up this info because I think its important that before an MR2 owner orders the one of the clevises shown in this post: https://www.mr2oc.com/showpost.php?p=...8&postcount=75 he/she should look at where their OEM clevis is set now, look at how many threads are showing on the pushrod (make sure the jam nut is still there as well) and compare with the photo of the OEM clevis in that post, as compared to the aftermarket clevises.

Last edited by cbulen; July 1st, 2011 at 02:38.
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post #100 of 102 (permalink) Old August 12th, 2015, 23:30
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Well I took so long to get around to this, I developed a different problem, at least, I hope it is (this time it's not going into 2nd gear at all, no grinding, locked out... previously it was just high RPM lockout going into 3rd)... I don't have any leaking either.
Regardless, did this mod tonight. In my case, it's pretty obvious (in my MKI.5) that the movement allowed by the clevis exacerbates the problem and wear too, so I welded solid my clevis and painted it. Nice product btw mister3, it's the right engineering call for sure.

For those drilling out the pedal for 1/2" bearing (I went with the 5/16 x 1/2 x 5/32" Teflon Sealed Bearing mentioned near the beginning of the thread), clamp the pedal down onto a 1/2" chunk of aluminum or steel on a drill press to allow the pedal bearing hole to be 100% flush, and drill using a 1/2" metal bit, but don't drill it 100% all the way through. The center of the bit will go through, but leave a microscopic lip on the one edge... this makes it easy to press in nice and snug (you can even sand it to get it a few microns tight). The bearing can't press out the far side. It's also thin enough that it's profile fits completely inside the thickness of the pedal.
By clamping the pedal down, and retracting the bit as soon as you get it drilled deep enough, it won't wear a larger than 1/2" hole.

I'll throw it back in tomorrow... I sincerely hope it's just a matter of reduced clutch stroke due to clevis buckling... somewhat worried that it only affects 2nd gear, and all others are perfect.

**Update: my issue solved itself unrelated to the bearing/clevis mods, but everything feels great. I might look at changing the spring knee-in point to make the pedal return earlier/harder.

Last edited by Gandalf; August 27th, 2015 at 09:02.
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