clutch pedal squeek PERMANENT fix!!! - Page 3 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #41 of 102 (permalink) Old September 19th, 2007, 00:04
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I received the bearings last week, I have not had time to tackle it.... school is kicking my butt already... but i will get to it when I can... I might have to take the car in and get the brake master cyl and clutch cyl done at the same time, I don't think i have time to tackle it myself... then when I have that done i can do the bearing and clevis work.
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post #42 of 102 (permalink) Old September 19th, 2007, 00:42
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So wait.. Does a squeeking clutch pedal hurt anything?
(Because my mk2 clutch pedal squeeks sometimes)
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post #43 of 102 (permalink) Old September 21st, 2007, 02:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRS_MisterTwo
So wait.. Does a squeeking clutch pedal hurt anything?
(Because my mk2 clutch pedal squeeks sometimes)

Well, it is a sign that it needs attention... mine squeaked for a while and i ignored it... now its a more prominent issue. its good to check it over thoroughly if it is squeaking, and and possibly apply some grease if it is coming from the pin area.... If you have the time, the bearing jobby will definitely cure the squeak and prevent problems later.
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post #44 of 102 (permalink) Old September 22nd, 2007, 01:01
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thanks gandalf,

Mine squeeks sometimes but not always,

what causes the squeeking to go away? should I be concerned?
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post #45 of 102 (permalink) Old September 22nd, 2007, 05:11
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That's hard to know... my guess, which is a factor in my case as well, is that the pedal action with regards to the clevis and pin assembly has some play in it, and so the pedal position in relation to the clevis and the clutch cylinder assembly is not consistent. By welding the clevis and installing a bearing, the action is more consistent and won't wear in the same manner. The squeaking is probably a result of wear, which will have more play in the action, or, the play and squeaking and wear are all related.

Just my guess since i haven't actually done it yet...
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post #46 of 102 (permalink) Old February 20th, 2008, 18:59
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Some pics of my install with the addition of needle bearings for the main clutch pivot bolt as well as the now standard needle bearings for the clutch master cylinder push rod pivot . I went all metric with a 12mm X 8mm and a set of 3 16mm X 12mm . Also widened the pedal to 10mm at the bearing mount point to the same width as the bearing . Over kill ya ... but so SMOOTH
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post #47 of 102 (permalink) Old February 20th, 2008, 21:25
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^alright nice fix!
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post #48 of 102 (permalink) Old February 29th, 2008, 16:40
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OK so wait..........hold on. Drill the hole to 1/2 in and just put the bearing in? is that it? Do you have to weld the bearing in or just insert and it just stays in place?
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post #49 of 102 (permalink) Old March 24th, 2008, 20:41
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uhhh... sticky?? i thought i was the only one that squeeked... thanks for the write up
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post #50 of 102 (permalink) Old April 8th, 2008, 07:00
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i just ordered some 8mm x 14mm x 4mm bearings.... hopefully the center will be the right fit.

the other dimensions are 5/16" (7.9mm) x 1/2" (12.7mm) x 5/32" (3.9675mm) so the 8mm ID should be ideal and the 14mm OD shouldn't be much of an issue since it's only 1.3mm larger... being a tad wider might also be helpful as well

great write up TURBRO!

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post #51 of 102 (permalink) Old April 13th, 2008, 10:12
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Anybody try green loctite to make sure it doesn't come out? Its cheap insurance... You could use red, but then it sucks to get back out if it goes bad on you.

Just my 2c

Great discovery Turbro, I'll be doing this sooner or later.
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post #52 of 102 (permalink) Old July 13th, 2008, 20:06
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Here is what I did with mine. Thanks for everyones help and suggestions to get me here.



I used this needle bearing:
Timken b-56
http://www.applied.com/apps/commerce...e=10&s=7393309

Nice and smooth now
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post #53 of 102 (permalink) Old July 14th, 2008, 13:33 Thread Starter
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^^ nice job, ya I've also used a timken b-55 bearing, which I'm sure is probably the same as the b-56 maybe a supreceded part number?
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post #54 of 102 (permalink) Old July 14th, 2008, 14:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBRO
^^ nice job, ya I've also used a timken b-55 bearing, which I'm sure is probably the same as the b-56 maybe a supreceded part number?
b-56 is wider. It is 3/8" wide. That is the reason I chose b-56 over b-55. I found them based on your link to applied.com. Thank you.
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post #55 of 102 (permalink) Old July 15th, 2008, 21:59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister3
i just ordered some 8mm x 14mm x 4mm bearings.... hopefully the center will be the right fit.

the other dimensions are 5/16" (7.9mm) x 1/2" (12.7mm) x 5/32" (3.9675mm) so the 8mm ID should be ideal and the 14mm OD shouldn't be much of an issue since it's only 1.3mm larger... being a tad wider might also be helpful as well

great write up TURBRO!
have used the bearings i got several times now and they fit great... ID for the pin is perfect and the width is also good since it's slightly narrower than the pedal thickness.... presses in there really nice.

BTW... if anyone needs a bearing i have plenty extra... also can do this for you if you mail your pedal in. would come with the bearing installed + new pin and washers for the side/side play

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post #56 of 102 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2008, 04:18
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^Nice!
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post #57 of 102 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2008, 09:02
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I'm feeling this mod! It's nice!
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post #58 of 102 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2008, 09:59
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I'm confused. Did everyone have to drill the clutch pedal or can you just press the bearing in if you get the proper size?


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listen to JDSingh he is giving you good advice.
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post #59 of 102 (permalink) Old July 16th, 2008, 10:10
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drill clutch petal.
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post #60 of 102 (permalink) Old July 22nd, 2008, 16:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubblebutt
Before you go to Lowe's, try using some sandpaper if you have some laying around and save yourself a trip. That is what I did. The pin seems to be thickest around the hole, but I pretty much had to sand the entire thing down just a tad.
If you want to do this quickly, chuck the pin into a drill (or drill press, if you've got it), wrap a thin strip of fine grit sandpaper around it, and crank 'er up. Used to do pine car axles that way.
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