DIY Rust Removal via Electrolysis- Amazing. - Page 3 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #41 of 63 (permalink) Old January 15th, 2007, 09:45
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answers

Everyone has great ideas and questions, but no one is giving it a whack. This thread has been up forever, yet I still haven't seen any before and after pics?! Anyone?!
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post #42 of 63 (permalink) Old January 15th, 2007, 11:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanesublett
Everyone has great ideas and questions, but no one is giving it a whack. This thread has been up forever, yet I still haven't seen any before and after pics?! Anyone?!
I actually tried this. I took a plastic trash can, filled it with water, but in washing soda and then took two rotors (one rusty, one not rusty) hooked up a CV/CC power supply. I figured it was a rotor and could take a lot of current so I put it up to about 2 amps (I remember reading somewhere that the amount of current should be based on the surface area of the objects. You really want them partially out of water so you can attach the electrodes to some place dry.

Anyway... I wasn't impressed with the results. The non-rusty one turned very rusty, but the rusty one wasn't cleaned up that much. There was a rust sludge concoction left on it. You'd still have to do quite a bit of clean up job. It was still very pitted, and if you wanted good results, you'd still need to sand it smooth. And as someone else pointed out, painting it with zinc primer immediately is probably a very good idea.
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post #43 of 63 (permalink) Old January 15th, 2007, 18:08
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You gotta go all out if you do it. I had like a $50 battery charger, dumped a lot of baking soda in ... used new coat hangers each time. It cleaned my caliper pretty well .. wherever you have rust it will melt off and you'll be left with a black bumpy part. The black bumpy texture won't rust anymore, it doesn't exactly look appealing though. I'd recommend painting it.

So basically I was left with a black caliper that had a smooth texture instead of the rust. It looks kind of like a smooth black rock you'de find in the river when its completely cleaned.
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post #44 of 63 (permalink) Old January 30th, 2007, 19:30
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http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoep...lyticrust.html
thats a pretty neat link and it gives a good idea of what i think i am going to do
ive heard great results from people that have done it. earlier in the post you can see the results of what people have done and how it turns out.
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post #45 of 63 (permalink) Old June 15th, 2007, 06:20
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I am not sure that this question was definitely answered: At what voltage should i use my battery charger.... I can set it to trickle at 2 volts, or go to 12 volts, or set to "activate".... methinks "activate" will activate my arse.
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post #46 of 63 (permalink) Old June 19th, 2007, 11:38
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The more volts the quicker the rust will come off.

My god this thread is so old ... I remember I tried this summer of 05' when I graduated high school! Good times
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post #47 of 63 (permalink) Old June 19th, 2007, 21:49
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how do you electrolysis more than 1 item at a time?
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post #48 of 63 (permalink) Old October 19th, 2007, 23:58
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G;day guys, im looking at stripping a set of calipers, that have some small sections of rust on them
How safe is this on honed or chromed surfaces,
would it be safe to electrolise the sliders (that have the outsides chromed?

I have already done some basic bits like caliper brackets and hub and uprights, but will it leave nice clean honed surfaces alone? or chromed areas (on sliders)?
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post #49 of 63 (permalink) Old March 14th, 2008, 00:03
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Has anyone found a way of reversing oxidation on aluminum ?
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post #50 of 63 (permalink) Old April 17th, 2008, 10:30
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This is kinda sad that nobody has posted any pics. Well I'm trying it right now. I'm doing the spare tire hold down and a exhaust manifold. I started using Cascade but it doesn't want to mix with the water so i dumped some baking soda in. It's mixing well and now I have bubbles . I'll post pics on my whole process. Any feedback would be appreciated.
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post #51 of 63 (permalink) Old April 24th, 2008, 22:02
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Brinign up the chromium by-product issue as hazardous waste:

I could understand the concern of using SS if it were for a lengthly period of time, such as for the HHO generators being used as fuel suppliments in cars. For something of this nature, where it's only being used for minutes at a time, every once in a while, I can't see it being a problem.

Does anyone have more information on this? This isn't fact, just thought.
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post #52 of 63 (permalink) Old June 8th, 2008, 23:25
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Since no one has posted pics, I did this today for fun. This isn't my first rodeo, tho. Myself and a friend did this on his exhaust manifold from a '68 TransAm a few years ago. Anyway, here's what I got...

Nasty rotor


The setup:
Negative is on top of the rotor, partially exposed to the air. Positive is pinning the coat hanger to the bucket. Coat hanger is sanded to remove the coating and expose the bare metal. Mixture is about 1/4 cup Arm & Hammer baking soda to 2.5g of water. If you look closely, you can see the chunks of rust falling off and on the bottom of the bucket. This accumulation was after about 30 seconds.


The result after about 15 minutes and a quick swipe of the rag.


To get like-new/shiny results, you'd have to use a piece of mild abrasive steel wool after this. I'm just using that method with some brake clean from the get-go on the rest, since rotors are cake to clean. On something like an exhaust manifold (rougher) or a *really* rusty part, this is the way to go, but takes a bit longer.

Hope that helps.
-Mike
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post #53 of 63 (permalink) Old June 11th, 2009, 18:42
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FYI,
The link is dead!
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post #54 of 63 (permalink) Old September 11th, 2009, 20:09
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Wow! This thread never dies. I know nothing about electrodes and stuff but does it matters how much of the coat hanger is submerged? Is the more the better?

What am I doing here?
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post #55 of 63 (permalink) Old September 14th, 2009, 19:44
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For people who still needs to see pics in how this is done, forget the pics. Go to you tube; type "electro rust removal". All the infos you need.

Did you know; soda, citric acid, and diluted hydrochloric acid will remove the black surface after the electrolytic process and bring the surface to it's original state.

What am I doing here?
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post #56 of 63 (permalink) Old December 14th, 2009, 20:21
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Updating the thread to note that today I found sodium carbonate at a pool supply company.

The guys looked at me like I was from another planet when I told them what I was going to do. They might look like that all the time, though; the chlorine smell were intense in there.
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post #57 of 63 (permalink) Old December 14th, 2009, 23:54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTuna
Updating the thread to note that today I found sodium carbonate at a pool supply company.

The guys looked at me like I was from another planet when I told them what I was going to do. They might look like that all the time, though; the chlorine smell were intense in there.
post some pictures, RT. how much sc to how much water?
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post #58 of 63 (permalink) Old February 2nd, 2011, 10:21
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This seems to work very well, I would like to try it out as I have a few very rusted parts on my 87, but the link is dead, can anyone post up a new one?

Thanks in advance.
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post #59 of 63 (permalink) Old February 24th, 2011, 13:01
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The link is dead.
http://www.rowand.net/shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

there ya go.
remember, this makes hydrogen gas as a by product. leave it somewhere open if you can.
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post #60 of 63 (permalink) Old February 24th, 2011, 19:28
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Thank you very much
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