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Old March 13th, 2006, 08:00   #1
MISTER2
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MKII MR2 Frequently Asked Questions

What Gauges Should I get?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
Top 2 gauges: Boost (Turbo Only), Wideband
Top 3 gauges: ^^^, +Oil Pressure
Top 4 gagues: ^^^, +Oil Temperature
Top 5 gauges: ^^^, +EGT (Turbo Only)
Top 6 gauges: ^^^, +Fuel Pressure
Top 7 gauges: ^^^, +Water Temp

IMO...decide how many gauges you want to run and select based on the list above
Does my MR2 have a LSD?
Quote:
Originally Posted by billwot
Here are the facts about the MkII MR2 and LSD:

It was not available on '91-'92 models

It was offerred as an option beginning in '93

It was only available on the turbo (E153 tranny)

On LSD-equipped cars, the A/TM designation on the dataplate in the driver's door will be 733/e153, or 735/e153

It is a visous coupling and CANNOT be identified by jacking the car up and turning one wheel.

If you look into the axle port of a factory LSD tranny, there will be visible bar between the 2 sides.*
*E153 Trans only, ALL S54 transmissions have this bar...NO S54 has an OEM LSD.

bill
What parts do I need for remote mount oil pressure gauge install?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
www.summitracing.com
  • ATM-2269 (1/8 BSP Male to 1/8 NPT Female)
  • EAR-981604ERL (1/8 NPT Male to -4AN Male)
  • NOS-15231NOS (-4AN 24" braided line to -4AN)
  • EAR-981604ERL (-4AN male to 1/8 NPT Male)
  • EAR-991701ERL (1/8 NPT 3-way female Tee)
http://www.mcmaster.com/
  • 4092K26 (1/8BSP Female - 1/8NPT Male Adapter)
What transmission do I have?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
A241E = 5S-FE, 3S-GE Automatic transmission
S54 = 5S-FE, 3S-GE Manual Trans
E153 = 3S-GTE Manual transmission
E50F = Alltrac Transmission
What manual trans gear oil should I use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
(GL-4) 75W90 Gear oil

IMO: (GL-4) 75W90 Gear oil will provide the BEST shiftability, and long term protection for ALL MR2 transmissions regardless of horsepower or presence of an OEM LSD or aftermarket LSD.

If you want to use Redline or Amsoil gear oil purchase:
Redline MT-90 or Amsoil 75W-90 GL-4
(Support MR2OC Vendors: Amsoil dealer code: 1377698)

If you have a 93+ E153 equipped with LSD...you should still use (GL-4) 75W90.
You do not want gear oil with LSD friction modifier. Friction modifier is ONLY for clutch type LSD's, the OEM Toyota LSD is a Viscous LSD...NOT a Clutch Type. Therefore you use the same gear oil for LSD as for Non-LSD.

If you have installed an aftermarket Non-OEM Clutch-type LSD, you STILL want to use (GL-4) 75w90, and slowly add as little Redline Friction modifier or Amsoil Friction Modifier as needed to eliminate chatter on slow tight turns.

Clutch-type LSD friction modifier WILL decrease shiftability?the less modifier, the better the shiftability.

See also Post #15:
My Ebrake / Pbrake does not work - Ebrake cable help?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
It is very common for the parking brake / emergency brake cables to seize up over time. It is a fairly simple fix. You need to replace the cables that go to each of the rear calipers.

Or you can get OEM Toyota cables from www.partznet.com
What Amp Alternator does my MR2 use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
100A = NA or Turbo w/ power steering
80A = NA w/o power steering w/automatic trans
70A = NA or Turbo w/o power steering
How do I bleed the clutch? Slave Cylinder Help?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
There is some disagreement as to if you really need to spend the money on a MityVac or other hand pump. I say 100% YES! but I will post both points of view.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
Get a MityVac hand pump it will save you lots of aggravation. They can be found at Sears, and most Auto Parts stores.
MityVac Pic
  • Take out the bleeder screw; wrap the threads with Teflon tape and replace.
  • Connect the MityVac to the slave cylinder bleeder screw.
  • Pump up the MityVac to build negative pressure. (Be sure to keep negative pressure until you are done.)
  • Open the Bleeder Screw slowly
  • Have a second person sit in the car and pump the clutch pedal every 15-20 seconds.
  • Continue until large bubbles stop coming out the bleeder screw, and the fluid coming out is fresh and clean looking. (Some small bubbles will always be present, as they will bleed past the threads on the bleeder screw. This is normal.)
  • Close the bleeder screw.
  • Test the pedal for proper pressure.
  • Top off the fluid reservoir. (Note: Pay attention to NOT let the reservoir go empty during the procedure or you will have to start over.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talent
First bleed the clutch normally, open the bleeder press the pedal, close the bleeder, lift the pedal, repeat.
Do this until the air is out.
This is where people struggle, the air is out but there is no pedal pressure.
Here is my secret technique; with the bleeder closed, grab the clutch pedal with you right hand and just cycle it up and down as fast as you can for about 30 seconds or until your arm is sore. Then bleed it once. You should start to feel the pedal coming up. Jam on it again and the pedal should come in within the next few bleeds.
I don't have any theories why this works but it does and has never failed.

Give it a try and let me know if it works for you.
What is the max boost I can run on a stock Gen2 3SGTE?
Quote:
Originally Posted by billwot
There is no reason to run more than 15-16 psi with the CT26. At ~ 15-16 psi, the exhaust restriction created by the turbine starts to rise faster than boost, so flow becomes choked on the exhaust side. There is no real increase in power, but the risk of detonation increases.

bill
Should I get an aftermarket Blow Off Valve - BOV? (Turbo Only)
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dijital357
the reason to use the factory BOV is because it RECIRCULATES the boosted air into the intake tube instead of just venting it to the atmosphere.

turbo mr2s use a MAF (mass airflow sensor) to measure and tell the computer how much air the engine is sucking in. if you use a blow off valve that vents that already measured air to the atmosphere, the computer will still make decisions based on whatever amount of air the MAF told it, and will not know that some of that air has been vented. so it will run rich when you let off the gas. make sense?
Quote:
Originally Posted by billwot
No aftermarket valve will outperform the OEM Toyota valve!!!

There is absolutely NO REASON to replace the OEM valve, unless you just want to hear the Ppsshhttt.

bill

Last edited by MISTER2; June 1st, 2007 at 12:31.
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Old March 14th, 2006, 07:40   #2
MISTER2
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What do I do if my transmission grinds when going into X gear?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
If your transmission grinds when going into gear you only have a few options. Start with the cheapest fixes.

1.) Confirm the clutch pedal is properly adjusted
BGB Clutch Adjustment

1a.) While checking the clutch pedal adjustment pay particular attention to the linkage of the pedal to the pushrod. The bushing, and pin that holds the assembly together tends to wear over time and can cause less travel of the pushrod than what would normally be desired. The fix for a worn pin and bushing is cheap and easy.
Clutch pedal assy:
90240-08071 (Pin, w/ hole) $0.96
90386-08033 (Bushing) $1.18

2.) Bleed the clutch slave cylinder. (See procedures outlined in previous section of this thread.)

3.) Try fresh transmission fluid. Many MR2 owners including myself have experienced improved shiftability and less grinding from using premium fluids such as Redline MT-90. There are lots of "premium fluids" available, I have had personal success with MT-90.

4.) Many poor shifting issues are a result of a sticking or improperly functioning master cylinder or slave cylinder. In many cases spending ~$100 on replacing the MC and SC will save you from having to go to the $1500 option outlined below in #5.

5.) No clutch pedal adjustment, slave cylinder bleeding, or super-amazing trans fluid can repair damaged synchros and dog teeth. If you have tried everything listed above with less than desired results you will be looking to replace or rebuild your transmission.

I don't recommend just replacing the synchros, since you have the gear box opened up you may as well replace any worn components such as synchros, sliders, shift forks, damaged gears, etc since the labor involved is about the same as just replacing the synchros.
Do 93+ transmissions have dual cone synchros?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
Yes, and No...

This is a common misconception, 93+ MR2 transmissions do offer improved shiftability from upgraded synchros. However it is not because all the gears have dual-cone synchros.

In fact a triple-cone synchro is used on the 2nd gear, and a dual-cone synchro is used on the 3rd gear. 1, 4, and 5 are the same as the 91/92 transmissions. (E153)

It is unclear about the 3rd gear on the S54, however the BGB does specify a triple-cone synchro on the 2nd gear for the S54.

See 1993 BGB scans for the E153 and S54 listed here http://mr2.noegruts.com/trannyoil/trannyoil.htm

Last edited by MISTER2; July 8th, 2008 at 10:17.
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Old March 14th, 2006, 10:07   #3
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Looking good!
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Old March 14th, 2006, 10:09   #4
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what about that speedo cable question that seems to pop up at least once a month??
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Old March 14th, 2006, 10:27   #5
MISTER2
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Place holder for future .faq's

Last edited by MISTER2; May 31st, 2007 at 14:19.
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Old March 14th, 2006, 16:07   #6
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also

-how much power/boost can i run safely on my stock motor
-wheres the knock sensor!(i know its so simple but for some reason i personally had a little problem finding it
-differences between the 91/92 - 93-95 mr2's shift link/brakes/lights
-mr2 with abs
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Old March 14th, 2006, 16:39   #7
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^^ those questions are too easy to sticky imo. there probally already stuck in a different thread.
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Old March 14th, 2006, 18:12   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimric
^^ those questions are too easy to sticky imo. there probally already stuck in a different thread.

Yeah, but the point is that some people, especially noobs, don't know how to navigate around this board, or are too lazy to do a search, or whatever. This stickie should address the most often asked questions even if the answer is in the next thread.
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Old March 17th, 2006, 22:25   #9
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Theres the shift linkages that always break. We need to make them more aware about them. Ever 3 weeks its. I was cruisin in 4th went to downshift i heard a pop and now i can't leave 4th gear what happened?
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Old March 24th, 2006, 22:20   #10
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For those that are interested this is what everything togeather will resemble for the oil pressure gauge remote installation.


Pictured in the above picture from left to right. Stock oil pressure sender. 1/8" bsp female to 1/8" npt male adapter. 1/8" NPT Tee.


Pictured from bottom left to bottom right are: 1/8" male to -4AN male. Stainless Steel 24" braided hose. -4AN Male to 1/8" male.

I'll most likely post pictures with the Auto Meter Oil Pressure Sender tomorrow or sunday, depends on when I go check on my car.

Sorry for the horrible quality pictures.

Last edited by shimric; March 24th, 2006 at 22:23.
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Old April 2nd, 2006, 13:31   #11
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Please clarify the eBrakes from RockAuto.

They show 3 brands, but only 2 in stock. The two in stock both say they are the "Front" cable.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...IengineID=2309

I was under the impression that it is the back cables x 2 that go bad.


Quote:
My Ebrake / Pbrake does not work - Ebrake cable help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
It is very common for the parking brake / emergency brake cables to seize up over time. It is a fairly simple fix. You need to replace the cables that go to each of the rear calipers. They are ~$65 from www.rockauto.com
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 07:48   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbulen
Please clarify the eBrakes from RockAuto.

They show 3 brands, but only 2 in stock. The two in stock both say they are the "Front" cable.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...IengineID=2309

I was under the impression that it is the back cables x 2 that go bad.
I would recommend giving them a call.
I will add www.partznet.com to the .faq for people who want to get OEM cables.

Last edited by MISTER2; April 3rd, 2006 at 07:50.
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 09:53   #13
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Where is the original thread from which this was quoted? I wanted to read the rest of the discussion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
All MKII MR2 manual transmissions call for GL-5 Gear Oil.
There is some confusion from the BGB and the S54 Transmission, Toyota Released a TSB to revise / clear up any confusion. Toyota S54 TSB*

If you want to use Amsoil gear oil, you should use Amsoil 75W90 (GL-5)

Redline MT-90 is a GL-4 Gear Oil.
If you want to use Redline gear oil, you should use Redline 75W90NS (GL-5).

If you have a 93+ E153 equipped with LSD...you should still use 75W90NS.
You do not want gear oil with LSD friction modifier. Friction modifier is ONLY for clutch type LSD's, the OEM Toyota LSD is a Viscous LSD...NOT a Clutch Type. Therefore you use the same gear oil for LSD as for Non-LSD.

If you have installed an aftermarket Non-OEM Clutch-type LSD, you STILL want to use 75W90NS, and slowly add as little Redline Friction modifier or Amsoil Friction Modifier as needed to eliminate chatter on slow tight turns.

Clutch-type LSD friction modifier WILL decrease shiftability?the less modifier, the better the shiftability.

*Thanks erioshi for the TSB scan.
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 10:02   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron
Where is the original thread from which this was quoted? I wanted to read the rest of the discussion.
There isn't one. It is the compilation of many threads over several years.
There was no real discussion, mostly non-scientific hear-say and mis-information.

I would be more than happy to discuss what I know about the differences between GL-4 and GL-5 gear oil in another thread.

Last edited by MISTER2; April 3rd, 2006 at 10:05.
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 10:18   #15
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Sorry, I just assumed "Originally posted" meant that it was quoted from another thread. I do have some concerns with the GL-5 being suggested as best and only suitable fluid issue. If you would like to keep any discussion of that out of this FAQ section, then possibly look at this one:

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=173060

Last edited by Byron; April 3rd, 2006 at 10:33.
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 13:55   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MISTER2
I would recommend giving them a call.
I will add www.partznet.com to the .faq for people who want to get OEM cables.
(93-95 turbo)
The right side from conicelli (Partznet) is only $57, but the left is a whopping $237. The left must be titanium

Rockauto says (by phone) that they don't have the rears, only the fronts.

Last edited by cbulen; April 3rd, 2006 at 13:58.
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Old April 13th, 2006, 15:45   #17
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Update: Op remote mount works AMAZING!!! I would have to qualify this as a really good investment for your car. If you love your MR2 as much as I love mine get an aftermarket gauge, and remote mount that sender.
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Old April 13th, 2006, 16:02   #18
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Mister 2 when you update the tranny fluid part don't forget to add the part about flushing the system. Mixing of 2 fluids should/will cause tranny failure.
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Old April 13th, 2006, 18:22   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gocasen
Mister 2 when you update the tranny fluid part don't forget to add the part about flushing the system. Mixing of 2 fluids should/will cause tranny failure.
That does not stand to reason for ANY of the research I have done, there is nothing to become chemicaly active in the gear oil that would cause residue from one to become a corrosive mixture with the other.

...I think that info was mass speculation in an attempt to explain an error by Toyota.

...feel free to start a fresh discussion thread.
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Old April 13th, 2006, 19:19   #20
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Read the thread in Post #15 if you care to.

Last edited by MISTER2; May 31st, 2007 at 14:20.
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