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How to change your carrier bearing without a press / Remove the passenger axle too

28K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  rayben 
#1 · (Edited)
Bearing part number 90080-36133
Bolt part number 90119-10461






Well I have been tracking down a problem with my car going into limp mode for a long time. The other day I noticed my carrier bearing was bad, I could move the passenger side axle up and down and that?s not good. It was causing a vibration through the carrier bearing bracket and the brace that bolts onto the block by the knock sensor making it think the motor was knocking.

Here is a video of the bad bearing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYy6f3IDDjQ&list=UUdtjdJOtIDFcErVUunkNVWw&index=2&feature=plcp


I looked for a "how to" on replacing a carrier bearing and found nothing. Since I found nothing, here you go. I believe the non-turbo doesn't have one.

Tools you will need.
17mm socket (prefer ?? drive)
14mm socket
32mm deep well socket
17mm wrench
14mm wrench
8mm allen key
5mm allen key
C-clip pliers (needle nose will work but will be harder)
Small and large flat screw driver
Channel locks or plyers
Hammer

Before jacking up the car break loose the 32mm axle bolt.

Before removing the axle break lose the 8mm allen bolts holding the race together. Just break them loose.



I will have pictures up later to help on removal of the axle.

To remove the axle:

1. Jack up both sides of the car so there is no pressure on the sway bar.

2. Use the 32mm socket to loosen the axle nut.

3. Unless you have aftermarket ball joints the two ball joint to hub bolts should be 17mm, mine are moog so they are 18mm.
Take out the 17mm hub to ball joint bolts and the 17mm tie rod bolt and nut.


4. Take off the 14mm end link nut with the 14mm wrench and 5mm allen and take it out of the strut housing hole.

5. Crawl under the car and you will see the carrier bracket bolted to the block above the exhaust with a brace hooked onto the block by the knock sensor. Unbolt all of this. Mine are a mix between 14mm and 17mm yours might be different.

6. Go back to the hub and slide the screwdriver between the metal top of the ball joint and the hub, don?t let it slip and slice the boot. This will allow the hub to move freely now and you can take the axle out of the hub side.

7. Let the axle lay on the cross member and go under the car again. Take the screw driver and put it between the block and the bracket, give it a little pry and it will flip up and around.

8. Grab the axle by the short shaft and the long shaft. Hold the short shaft still while tugging on the long shaft and the axle should pop out. It does for me. Take this out slowly and it is a puzzle but it will all come out. This step is a lot easier with a second pair of hands.

9. Now your axle is out.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Replace the carrier bearing:

Warning:
Don?t let the cv joint fall all the way out of the joint because it is hard to get back in, but if it does below is a link to a great how to on getting it back together by SW20FL.
http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=268743&highlight=remove+axle


1. The 8mm allen bolts you can now remove. See the warning above. Letting the boot side of this go any further than a few inches toward the boot side it will fall apart.

This is what you don?t want to fall apart








2. Remove the clip circled below with the plyers. In the second picture the circled bolt needs to be loosened before the bracket will slide off.








3. There is a dust cap on the outer side. Tap a screw driver between the bearing and the cap. Go around in circles till it shimmies off.

 
#3 · (Edited)
4. There is a c-clip holding this side of the bearing on pictured below slightly off so you can see it. I used my c-clip pliers to spread it and then a screw driver to help my push it off. Don?t loose the dust cap or this clip I reused them but you should probably buy new.



5. Now comes the time to get the bearing off. Spray some wd-40 or penetration oil on the inner race. I use a screw driver on the inner race to start it out and then tapped the outer race with a hammer till it slid off. Don?t throw this away you will need it later.




6. Spray some wd-40 or penetration oil where the bearing will slide on. Slide your new bearing down to when it stops and then slide the old bearing after it. Tap and DO TAP on the inner race of the old bearing. I slid my hammer up and down the shaft of the axle so I did hit the inner race every time.


Video Here.




Reverse to install.
 
#5 ·
Luke_L said:
Great write-up!

Did you take the CV joint apart just to be able to stand up the axle shaft to tap on the new bearing? Seems like other than making it easier to handle you don't need to take it apart. Right? I'm just curious.
The shaft would feel like a wet noodle if you left it all together. If you have a press, it might be possible to not take it apart, but you will want to if your doing it my way.
 
#7 ·
How does that bolt work on the carrier bearing? The one you loosened. I'm missing this on my car and my axle shaft feels loose as well as I'm leaking fluid from my transmission. I haven't driven it like this but seems it would rip up the splines on the axle with the lateral movement it has.
 
#8 ·
Svx92 said:
How does that bolt work on the carrier bearing? The one you loosened. I'm missing this on my car and my axle shaft feels loose as well as I'm leaking fluid from my transmission. I haven't driven it like this but seems it would rip up the splines on the axle with the lateral movement it has.
The bolt snugs the bearing in the bracket. It uses a rubber tip so it doesnt damage the bearing. If your bearing is good then i would just get the bolt and see if the movement is gone.
 
#9 ·
3. There is a dust cap on the outer side. Tap a screw driver between the bearing and the cap. Go around in circles till it shimmies off.

[/QUOTE]


I have looked everywhere but can't seem to find part numbers for the dust cap or the clip. Anyone have any leads?
 
#12 ·
No I dont. This was so long ago. All you have to do is break them loose while they are on the car and then finish taking them off when you get it out. Dont let the internal race fall apart when pulling it apart. You can get it back together, but its a pain. I have a link in post #3 I believe of another persons how to on getting it back together if the balls and inner race fall out.

Hope this helps.
 
#15 ·
Well, I first used a generic parts store one and it lasted me about 5000 miles. I then went and bought an OEM one from the local toyota dealer and that one has been drove on for about 10,000 miles. I really don't know the mileage that was on the axles when I replaced it because they came with the gen3 swap I bought.
 
#16 ·
Just wanted to say thank you for the write-up. followed these instructions and was able to do the job.

I did need a bigger hammer and a chisel in order to get a good strike on the old bearing to remove it. Started out not hitting it hard enough, but once I started really wailing on it, it started to move.
 
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