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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:47   #1
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Theft Prevention tips by David Chau

originally posted by davidchau

Winter is here and its getting dark around 5pm here in Philadelphia, so car thieves come out earlier.

Here are some of the methods I use when installing a alarm on custom cars or my own car. I installed car alarms for 3 years during High School, have a Master MECP from Mobile Dynamics and I live in Center City Philadelphia and have seen many theft recovers, many of my customers already had alarms (installed at a local "alarm shop" and not by me) and their car was still stolen.

I thought of many ways of protecting a car under attack. Since growing up in the city, many of my friends where car thieves themselves and even they had me install their alarms. Having friends as car thieves back in high school taught me how car thieves really think and how to protect and slow them down. Any place can install your alarm, its easy to connect wires and make them chirp and blink, but I don't think its really going to protect your car under a full blown attack. In the years I did install alarms only 4 cars out of about 120 alarms I installed where stolen. Many of the cars install where still broken into, But the thieves gave up and ran away. The 4 cars that where stolen was stolen by a tow truck, person left keys in the car, forgot to turn on alarm, and one car jacking.

I am not saying your car will not be stolen but with these tips if done right will give a very good thief a VERY hard time.

1 tip: Disconnect the hood lever and hide it. When you need to open your hood just pull on the cable with your hands. Prevents a Battery attack. Wrap the cable with black tape to make it just look like another 10 gauge wire under your dash.

2 tip: Disconnect the driver side lock linkage. Your going to have
keyless entry anyways and if your battery dies or alarms acts up, just use the key on the passenger side. Prevents Slim-Jim's on driver door, and the common screwdriver under the door handle attack. Also Cuts %50 off break-ins because you only have 2 doors. Most break-ins happen on driver side door.

3 tip: When installing a Alarm NEVER use the valet switch, just wrap the valet switch around the brain.. if they found the brain they don't need the valet switch anyways. I install my alarms in Active re-arm mode, not a in passive which I hate because its such a pain in the ass when your working on your car or pumping gas.
Active re-arming means the alarm doesn't turn on itself but WILL turn back on if you dis-arm your car but DON'T open a door in 30 secs. Its for the times you accidentally hit your alarm button in your house.

4: tip: For the MR2 when installing a alarm I think the best place to put the "Brain" in a MR2 mkII turbo is above the Front air vents behind the radio, then wrap the wires in loom and run them down and thru the dash... when a car thief looks under the steering wheel to rip wires out he won't see anything but the big air vent under your kness

5: For the MR2 the hard part was placement of the siren, I run the wire on the back side of the fender after removing the weather guard in the fenderwell and then placed the siren behind the front bumper (where "The Beast" has the brake ducts) Sounds like a pain in the ass to due, but Most car thives just cut the siren wire and that shuts it up. Most shops just puts the siren in plain view under the hood or engine lid. "Where is your siren??" They just open the door, pull the hood and rip the siren out, 10 secs tops.

6: Dis-connect the truck lock linkage, I have power truck release so I just use that. Prevents truck break-ins. I have 94+ lights so I shaved both my revs lights and lock for a smoove look and saved over $120 on the lock and rev lights. I just use $20 side marker lights under my veilside bumper for rev lights.

7: A lot of times thives use this method of break-ins called Pop-in the glass out, done on the driver side mostly. Its when they stick a screw driver on top of your glass and just pry your glass out far enough to stick their hand or slim-jim in your car and hit the power lock button or lock lever over. The Glass on your car is very strong and will not break, its very easy to do on a T-Top and MR2's because we don't have a frame on top of the glass on the door. To Prevent this disconnect the lock lever on the driver side handle and wire a Relay with the starter output to shut off the power door lock switch when the alarm is armed. Test the wire that is the neg pulse given out at the switch, this is a pain in the ass to due, but this break in method is VERY common. Anyone who has locked themselves out and used a hanger to open the door knows how much the glass can flex out of the door, and most people are scared of pulling on the glass as much because its their car... car thives don't care if the glass breaks.

8: Don't EVER use those stupid Blue LED Scanners... I think the red ones are fine, but for some reason the color blue atracts thives.

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:51.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:48   #2
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posted by davidchau
9: Get a Mircowave (area motion sensor) sensor, its worth the money

10: I use the Millenium FX pager from Crimestopper... $80-90 bucks range is great on this thing and it looks like a normal small pager. Best 80$ bucks i spent on the alarm

11: Install Glass Break Sensors... its a small mic that listens for the sound of broken glass... cost about 20-30 bucks.... alot of times car thives use "moon rock" to break your window ( all it is the white part of a spark plug broken into little rocks ) Anyone how have seen this thing work, knows what I mean. The glass just breaks without ANY Noise the glass even stays in place until he moves it. Or sometimes they use a metal punch and press hard onto the glass, since the glass is tempered the glass doesn't break but it cracks all up into little blocks. No noise can me heard and your standard Shock Sensor WILL NOT pick it up.

12: Make sure you have the hood pin switch and Engine lid switch installed, most shops just ignores them. Don't forget your truck pin switch.

13: Hide ALL Wires with Black Tape!! If you stick your head under your steering wheel and you see your alarm or any of its wires your should re-do your alarm.

14: Get a back-up battery installed $30 bucks max, or use a cheap 12 volt camcorder lead battery from radio shack $10 bucks if its on sale.

15: Dis-Connect your engine lid lever if you want to prevent engine parts being stolen. Just pull on the bike cable yourself if you want to open your lid.

Well I know I have more Ideas but this is about it.... These Tips will Only Help your car from being stolen but you know what they say.....

"If a theif really wants your car, they will get it" you just don't have to make it easy for him

Be smart about where you park, these tips are some questions you can ask your alarm installer to do when getting it done at a local shop.

If you guys need any help installing your alarm with a MR2 Turbo I could help. Info on installing a Remote start with a Manual Tranny, email me.



David Chau
Conicelli Toyota Sponsored MR2 Turbo
http://www.partznet.com

If your in the Philadelphia Area and want me to install a alarm, give me a email. I only usually install alarms for friends and family only now since I make a killing with computers
<img src="http://board.mr2pages.com/bulk/DSC00064.JPG">



UPDATE UPDATE*********
Here are the full wiring codes for 1991-1993 MR2's

More Years Below*****

Alarm
Constant 12 volts WHITE AND BLACK/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts BLACK/ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light RED/WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN OR PASS. KICK PAN
Trunk Pin Switch RED/WHITE (-) LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LIGHT SW.
Parking Lamp GREEN (+) AT RELAY OR FUSE BOX
Power Lock RED/BLACK DRIVER KICK #201
Power Unlock GREEN/BLACK PANEL

#201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

Accessories
Window Up D\ GRN P\ RED/BLU @ MAIN
Window Down R/ RED S/ GRN SWITCH #211
Ign Key Warn BLUE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Trunk Release N/A
OEM Horn GREEN/BLACK (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights RED/YELLOW AND RED (-) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
OEM Alarm Arm BLACK (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL *
OEM Alarm Disarm BLACK/YELLOW (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL *

From Install Wires Have Been Found At Factory Relays In Driver Kick Panel Arm And Lock Has Been Found As BLACK/WHITE Dots. Disarm And Unlock Has Been Found As BLACK/YELLOW/WHITE Dots #600571

Remote Start

Tach Signal BLACK/WHITE AT IGNITER OR DIAGNOSTIC PLUG *
Ignition #2 BLACK/YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3 N/A
Accessory BLUE/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
Brake Light GREEN/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light RED/BLACK (+) AT SWITCH
Rear Window Defrost

* Diagnostic Plug Located In Passenger Rear Of Engine Compartment. BLACK/WHITE Marked IG-.

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:52.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:49   #3
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posted by davidchau

*********1994-1995 MR2's**************

Alarm

Constant 12 volts BLACK/RED AND WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts BLACK/ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light RED/WHITE AT PIN 2 IN WHITE 10 PIN CONN. *
Trunk Pin Switch RED/WHITE AT TRUNK SWITCH OR LIGHT
Parking Lamp GREEN (+) DRIVER KICK PANEL AT FUSE/RELAY BLOCK
Power Lock RED/BLACK WHITE 14 PIN CONNECTOR #201
Power Unlock GREEN/BLACK IN DRIVER KICK PANEL ** #209

* Also Found As GREEN/ORANGE (-) Which Changes To RED/BLUE (-) In White 14 Pin Connector In Driver Kick Panel. ** Child Safety Locks- BLUE/RED (-) In Same Connector As Door Lock Wires Above. See Note #209. #201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram. #209- See Child Safety Door Lock Diagram.

Accessories

Window Up D\ GRN P\ RED/BLU @ MAIN
Window Down R/ RED S/ GRN SWITCH #211
Ign Key Warn BLUE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Trunk Release N/A
OEM Horn GREEN/BLACK (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights NOT RECOMMENDED - RETRACTOR SEPERATE SYSTEM
OEM Alarm Arm BLACK (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL
OEM Alarm Disarm BLACK/YELLOW (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL

#211- See Reversal Rest At Ground Power Window Circuit Diagram.

Remote Start

Tach Signal BLACK/WHITE AT IGNITER OR DIAGNOSTIC PLUG *
Ignition #2 BLACK/YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3 N/A
Accessory BLUE/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
Brake Light GREEN/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light RED/BLACK (+) AT SWITCH ON TRANSAXLE
Rear Window Defrost


* Diagnostic Plug Located On Driver Front Of Engine Compartment. Igniter Located On Passenger Front Of Engine Compartment To Right Of Battery.

*****************1987-1989*********************

Alarm
Constant 12 volts WHITE OR WHITE/RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts BLACK/ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter BLACK/WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light RED/WHITE (-) AT DOME LIGHT
Trunk Pin Switch
Parking Lamp GREEN (+) AT FUSE BOX
Power Lock BLUE/WHITE DRIVER KICK #201
Power Unlock BLUE/RED PANEL

#201- See Negative Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

Accessories
Window Up D\ RED P\ RED @ MAIN
Window Down R/ S/ SWITCH #211
Ign Key Warn
Trunk Release
OEM Horn GREEN/WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights
OEM Alarm Arm
OEM Alarm Disarm


#211- See Reversal Rest At Ground Power Window Circuit Diagram.

Remote Start
Tach Signal BLACK AT IGNITER OR DIAGNOSTIC PLUG
Ignition #2 BLACK/YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3
Accessory
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWTICH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
Brake Light GREEN/WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light RED/BLACK (+) AT SWITCH
Rear Window Defrost

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:53.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:51   #4
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posted by resracer

tip # 7 not needed for MKii with stock alarm


after trying to break into my own car while stuck in California on Thanksgiving, I can definitely state that the door locks on my 93t with stock alarm and t-tops would not open using the power lock switch when the alarm was armed normally.

however, it was pretty easy to use a hanger and grab the trunk release from outside the car.

this only gets you in the trunk...

Geno

88sc
93t (s)
92na (s)

(snip)

7: A lot of times thives use this method of break-ins called Pop-in the glass out, done on the driver side mostly. Its when they stick a screw driver on top of your glass and just pry your glass out far enough to stick their hand or slim-jim in your car and hit the power lock button or lock lever over. The Glass on your car is very strong and will not break, its very easy to do on a T-Top and MR2's because we don't have a frame on top of the glass on the door. To Prevent this disconnect the lock lever on the driver side handle and wire a Relay with the starter output to shut off the power door lock switch when the alarm is armed. Test the wire that is the neg pulse given out at the switch, this is a pain in the ass to due, but this break in method is VERY common. Anyone who has locked themselves out and used a hanger to open the door knows how much the glass can flex out of the door, and most people are scared of pulling on the glass as much because its their car... car thives don't care if the glass breaks.

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:54.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:52   #5
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posted by Dmitri

Cool thread..

>Disconnect the driver side lock linkage.

This is actually more beneficial on other cars.. The linkage in the MKII is inside of a plastic sleeve all the way up to the latch mech on the side of the door. No slim jim that I've ever seen could pop it open. But if you had disconnected the linkage and lost your key, a crook would think it didn't fit your car, and move on..


>Dis-Connect your engine lid lever if you want to prevent
>engine parts being stolen. Just pull on the bike cable
>yourself if you want to open your lid.

This will stop 95% of all attacks, but it won't stop a crook who knows how our engine lids work. And no, I'm not going to elaborate..

Other tips I can think of:

(A) tint your windows if you have any expensive upgrades that are hard to hide (gauges,etc).

(B) Get an LED that shows you have an alarm, but don't put it in a highly visible spot. That way passerbys won't be drawn to your car, and crooks will know you're protected if they look hard enough.

(C) Park in well lit areas. If you own a house, get some motion detector lights

(D) Secure your ^$#^@! clear corners

Dmitri
91T

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:54.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:53   #6
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Originally posted by HHHHASGAME

A biggie that I do when installing alarms is to run an extra wire from the siren output on the alarm to the relay for the horn under the hood. If soneone does cut my siren the horn will definately get attention. Also for wires that can be seen use 4 con wire. if wired right the evtra 2pair can be wired together at a device ( pin switch, siren, whatever) to make a loop. by wiring all your loop in series and putting them on a zone you add a tamper loop. If someone was to cut the siren wire they's have to cut all the wires and when the loop gets cut, the alarm acts as if a door was opened.
Another trick is to disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. This just prevents theft of car.
I don't recommend taking off the linkages. these are not the best things in the world and the one you leave on may snap when you need it. Leaving you SOL...and u know what that means.
AJ

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:55.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:53   #7
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posted by BlueToms2

I was a MECP installer for a long time. I should have practiced what I preached since my CRX got stripped a few months back.(No alarm then)


Your tips on alarms were great!!!!

I would only add a few things.

Get a normally open relay placed on your starter kill. This means that if the brain or power to the alarm is cut the starter will not engage. 80% of alarms (all viper alarms) have a normally closed relay. Your installer will not do it by instinct ..tell him! You can pull the fuse and the car is helpless and can be started. No Joke!

Make your alarm as loud as possible. Tie it to your car horn, add a second siren, or a set of air horns. You can also add battery backed sires for about $70. Also on that same note make sure your alarm is not set to sensitive. False alarms will be the death of ya.

Make sure your led is in an obvious place central to the car but not so high that it grabs attention.

Pager alarms can be added for about $200-400 and will let you know if it is tripped (cheap insurance). Unless you want to get in serious trouble I would just act as a witness or if you have time call the cops. I hold two first degree black belts and I still would think twice before approaching a car thief. No car is worth losing your life over! Too many brainless young jerks carry guns. If you have a gun do you really want to go to jail over shooting a worthless thief?

Disconnect or hide all valet switches.

You can buy electronic hood locks for your hood and engine bay for about $50. This keeps the hood locked even if they pull the hood release.

I'm sure I could think of more but would be happy to answer questions about it.


Most professional car thiefs take only 40 seconds to just under 2 minutes to take anything (including your car)

on the adverage most are male between 17-25

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:55.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 18:54   #8
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posted by davidchau

things I forgot

I agree with Jesse
"Get a normally open relay placed on your starter kill. This means that if the brain or power to the alarm is cut the starter will not engage. 80% of alarms (all viper alarms) have a normally closed relay. Your installer will not do it by instinct ..tell him! You can pull the fuse and the car is helpless and can be started. No Joke! "

I have two relays a open loop and a closed loop on my car running in a daisy chain. but one of the relays is connected to the power lead off the rear de-fog switch-LED, so to start my car you need to press the rear-defog.

One Tip I forgot was to use Iginition kills and wire it to a well hidden switch behind your seat or something. I wouldn't recommend throw the kill on a relay since it is your ignition system.

Pager $200-$400?? NO NO you can get one for $80 bucks and install it yourself. Crimestopper has one for 80-90 bucks.

Don't forget the horn honk!!

Oh yea!! One more.... I know my Turbo MR2 has a Key hole light in the driver side door, which turns on when you pull on the handle, even when the door is locked. Think its a Positive feed, so use it with your alarm as a trigger. Theft will pull the handle just to see if the door is locked most of the time, that will cause the alarm to go off before the door is even open.

One more thing.
A thief will not be afraid of a Club by itself, or a alarm by itself, BUT if you have both thats two things they think about to attack, sort of a ONE TRACK MIND.

Hey Jesse you Movie Kicks ass!! Where can I get a copy of "Dream on" or your first movie??

David Chau

Last edited by Rojgonz; March 2nd, 2004 at 01:56.
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Old March 1st, 2004, 23:53   #9
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Here's my 2 cents.

1) Put the brain way up under the dash. Start taking the dash apart until you see a good space to put it. This prevents people from easily finding it.

2) Wire up a piezo mini siren in your car. Wire one independently of the other sirens so if the outside one gets pulled. There is a second one blasting inside. No one wants to listen to 140db while taking out a stereo.


One question: How do you wire the ignitiion up so you need to push the defrost button first?
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Old March 2nd, 2004, 02:03   #10
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Triad,
Thanx for bringing this one over!

Deserves to be a sticky!
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Old March 10th, 2004, 23:59   #11
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Quote:
posted by mr2_mike

One question: How do you wire the ignitiion up so you need to push the defrost button first?
this can be done? any info from anyone about it? Would you have to leave the defroster on to run the car or would it just be to start then you could turn it off?
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Old March 11th, 2004, 12:45   #12
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I also still need my defrost to work since I live up in Canada.

spaceMONKEY, I'm working on figuring this out. I believe that you need to have the negative side of the defrost button attached to the 85 part of the relay and the 86 side grounded. Then just find the starter wire or another wire that is required for starting and cut it in half. Put one side of the wire on 87, the other on the 30 terminal.

Don't quote me on that though. I'm pretty busy with school at the moment so when I get some more time, I'll look into it more and find which color of wires are needed and everything. Or else someone who's done it can help us out. I was also thinking the power window cut off button but that requires more wire and going through the door where the wire could eventually break. It's probably very important that it doesn't bend too much since... well... you want to drive the car don't ya?
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Old April 15th, 2004, 11:59   #13
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Conceptually I think I have an idea of how it would be done. First of all, it will only need to be depressed to start the car since it is only being hooked up to the starter... not the ignition system. But basically all you want to do is put another break in the starter circuit. This has actually inspired me to do something of the sort with a normally open relay and using the cigarette lighter as the switch to close it.

A friend of mine did something similar with his car, except he used about 8 switches hooked up in series. It was like a combo lock for his starter. If all the switches weren't in just the right position then the car wouldn't start. He mounted all the switches on a plate and hid them behind a blank panel in the DIN slot under his stereo.

On the subject of placement of the brain for your alarm. In my car I took off the panel underneath the steering column. After that I took off the steel plate and put it almost next to the steering column. Then I bolted the plate back on and replaced the under-dash panel. To even see where the brain is you'd have to be the size of an 8 year old boy(let alone get to it), at which point you wouldn't be tall enough to reach the pedals. lol
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Old April 21st, 2004, 13:01   #14
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What do you guys think about the MultiLock or the Auto Lock?
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Old April 21st, 2004, 17:11   #15
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I have also heard of people breaking a light and shorting out the circuit with a screwdriver... This will then blow the fuse on the main power to the Alarm. How do you get around this?? Can you put an inline fuse on the light flash wire and will that blow before the pwr wire to the alarm??

-Mike
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Old August 18th, 2004, 14:33   #16
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DO NOT TINT WINDOWS!!!!

i know first hand that a tinted window will make less noise whne a centerpunch is taken to it. also it stays together when you put your hand through it to open the door. and on rainy days the windo does not look broke.

got a removable face cd player and think taht removingthe face will keep your car from being broke into? nope, ive known people that remove the face because they dont want the rest of their stereo stuff taken. i know that subs and amsp sell better than decks... a way to prevent that. look for a AM/FM tape deck with a removable face. my friend got his at a local thrift store for 2$. put that face over your deck. my freinds deck has a recesssed area in his vehicle so it fits over it pretty well. 99.9% of people with am/fm tape decks do not have amsp and subs.


relocate your deck to the glove box or under your seat or arm rest. goto pull a part and get a factory dec or a cheap rampage amfm radio in the cdplayer spot.
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Old August 31st, 2004, 23:49   #17
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y not jus get a set of HELLA horns which is so FOking loud and wire it up along wit the alarm sirens.. it'll so annoy the theif that theyll either run away in pain in the their ears or um yea..
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Old September 4th, 2004, 23:27   #18
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Quote:
got a removable face cd player and think taht removingthe face will keep your car from being broke into? nope, ive known people that remove the face because they dont want the rest of their stereo stuff taken. i know that subs and amsp sell better than decks... a way to prevent that. look for a AM/FM tape deck with a removable face. my friend got his at a local thrift store for 2$. put that face over your deck. my freinds deck has a recesssed area in his vehicle so it fits over it pretty well. 99.9% of people with am/fm tape decks do not have amsp and subs.

relocate your deck to the glove box or under your seat or arm rest. goto pull a part and get a factory dec or a cheap rampage amfm radio in the cdplayer spot.
If you live in a place that's so crime-infested that you'd actually consider doing this, my advice is to keep your stereo in its normal place in your car and just MOVE to a different location. Jeez.
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Old September 20th, 2004, 14:07   #19
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theres also horns that have back up batteries. if a theft decides to cut the horn wire, the the batteries will kick in and keep the siren screaming.
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Old October 5th, 2004, 19:47   #20
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dang is there anyone in the bay area that can do all this stuff for my car? I would pay a high amount to have all this stuff done, I have too much money on my car to lose.
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