Custom Headlight Guide - Page 5 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #81 of 170 (permalink) Old February 14th, 2010, 14:01
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Nice thread

Pre fit my Hella 550's and Tandinh kit today.







They are back out of the car for now until I get my spare set of Hella H4's in that I ordered to retrofit into the housings.

1992 MR2 NA - 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic - 1999 Suburban 4x4
1988 MR2 SC - 2002 IS300 Sportcross -2010 F250 6.4 FX4 ~ Hers
SOLD - silver '03 MR2 Spyder - white '91 MR2 hardtop - white '85 MR2, black '91 MR2
RIP - black '88 MR2, silver '86 MR2

Last edited by tvismr2; May 9th, 2010 at 14:43.
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post #82 of 170 (permalink) Old February 14th, 2010, 14:27
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Lets not forget holys custom one of a kind


Great thread. those ebay quads look mean
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post #83 of 170 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2010, 13:47
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I like the 4 beams look. Thanks for the thread to compile all these ideas.
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post #84 of 170 (permalink) Old February 15th, 2010, 23:20
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Took the stock prop rod apart. The two ends are held to the rod by pins, and held to each other by a spring that fits inside the rod; I guess to absorb the shock of the headlight moving up.
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post #85 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 01:43
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It's not the round rods that determine how high the lids raise, it is the arm that is attached to the motor. The lid will raise 2X the length of that arm. The rod just has to be the distance from where the arm sits when lid is all the way down, to where the lid sits in the down position. SO steps to resize arms/rods:
#1 Decide how high you want lid to raise from flush/closed position
#2 Shorten arm connected to motor to 1/2 that height
#3 Shorten lifting rod to reach from end of arm to connector on light so that lid is flush with body when light is lowered. That will make rod lift the headlight lid to predetermined (in step #1 above) height when motor rotates arm to raised position.
(It would be easier to explain with pictures!)
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post #86 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 03:15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr24u
It's not the round rods that determine how high the lids raise, it is the arm that is attached to the motor. The lid will raise 2X the length of that arm. The rod just has to be the distance from where the arm sits when lid is all the way down, to where the lid sits in the down position. SO steps to resize arms/rods:
#1 Decide how high you want lid to raise from flush/closed position
#2 Shorten arm connected to motor to 1/2 that height
#3 Shorten lifting rod to reach from end of arm to connector on light so that lid is flush with body when light is lowered. That will make rod lift the headlight lid to predetermined (in step #1 above) height when motor rotates arm to raised position.
(It would be easier to explain with pictures!)
yup yup in simpler words..

shortening the rod is not the only thing you need to doo
the mount/bracket that spins with the motor
will have to be shorter/smaller if your shortening the rod..

or else your idea's WILL NOT work... properly.

because that braket/mount on the motor is wat spins the rod and is also very important in the height and rotation of the motor....

if the rod is too small and the braket is too big your head light will get stuck...
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post #87 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 03:17
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alot of people just take off the relay and adjust the lights to theyre wanted height but totally defeats the purpose of POP UP head lights..

if theres enought interest's
i can make more of my plug and play rods/brakets and sell them fairly cheap

pm me if ur interestd.
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post #88 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 10:36
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would you be able to make them in different sizes? I already have some narrower lights to put in there that are not the same size as yours.
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post #89 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 14:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drftxdori
does anyone know how to remove the glass from the housing without breaking/cracking it?
I have done this before.....you need a thick leather glove, a propane torch, and a 1" wooden dowel.

Hold the light with your gloved hand, heat the outside ridge of the glass (where the sealant is), once the light is heated evenly press around the edge from the inside through the bulb hole.

Do not tap on the glass as it will break. Use constant and firm pressure. It will eventually push out.

Once the glass is out you can heat the tip of a flatblade and use it to dig out excess sealant.

When you are ready to re-install the glass use Black RTV.

Hope this helps.
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post #90 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 16:10
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Not trying to step on anyone's toe's here, but its actually a 1.85:1 ratio, not 2:1 ratio or 2X like mr24u pointed out..

This is calculated based off exact measurements (well with in .005") taken from the compontents that make up the entire headlight assembly...

2:1 is close but if your needing it to be dead precise, then 1.85:1 needs to be used.. 2:1 is off by almost 1/4" at stock opening.. The amount of error (i.e., how far your off will decrease as the lift amount drops. Its an exponential increase (or in this case, decrease)...

Either which way though, as mr24u pointed out, the throw arm length needs to be altered in order to get the light to close correctly with the desired opening height.. If you just shorten the linkage rod, the light will close till it hits the stop and then the motor will get stuck and you wont be able to do anything else after that..

Like I think I said earlier (but it might have been in another tread... Dont recall exactly where or when), the motor rotates in a full 360* circle. It is not a forward and reverse operation like a window motor.

The up or down position of the lid is equal to 180* motor rotation (i.e., the motor rotates 180* to lift the light, then rotates the next 180* or the full 360* to lower it back down)... This is why the throw arm needs to be shorten (along with the link rod) to allow for the light to open and close properly but with a lower open height... Its lengh is (mount hole center to ball center) is 1/2" the 1.85 ratio of the desired open height....

Here's a simple equation lets say that you want the open height to be 4" (Again, this is true vertical height from closed. 4 / 1.85 / 2 = 1.081"

So to get have the lid open 4", the distance the ball on the throw arm needs to be from the center of rotation (i.e., the center of the hole where the arm mounts to the motor) needs to be 1.081".

After that is done, then the link arm can be made. Just have to have the light down and the motor down and the link arm length can be measured and made..

One thing to note with the link rod. The throw arm has to be positioned so that the ball on the arm and the ball on the light housing is in alignment and on the same line as the rotation stud of the motor that the throw arm attaches to... If all three points are not on the same line, you can cause the motor to get stuck or cause the light to open or close too far as this will cause the link rod length to be slighly off...
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post #91 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 16:38
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This is what I did years ago, flush mount pop up's.


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post #92 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 18:29
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So....what's the point of those? I mean the fit looks decent and all, props, but why go to all that trouble and still have popups?

CJMR2T, very helpful post, thank you.
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post #93 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 18:44
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It was a pain to do, so I would never do it again. I wanted to have the best of both worlds and I wanted to see if it could be done.

Last edited by LOS ALMIGHTY; February 16th, 2010 at 18:48.
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post #94 of 170 (permalink) Old February 16th, 2010, 23:41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJMR2T
Not trying to step on anyone's toe's here, but its actually a 1.85:1 ratio, not 2:1 ratio or 2X like mr24u pointed out..

This is calculated based off exact measurements (well with in .005") taken from the compontents that make up the entire headlight assembly...

2:1 is close but if your needing it to be dead precise, then 1.85:1 needs to be used.. 2:1 is off by almost 1/4" at stock opening.. The amount of error (i.e., how far your off will decrease as the lift amount drops. Its an exponential increase (or in this case, decrease)...

Either which way though, as mr24u pointed out, the throw arm length needs to be altered in order to get the light to close correctly with the desired opening height.. If you just shorten the linkage rod, the light will close till it hits the stop and then the motor will get stuck and you wont be able to do anything else after that..

Like I think I said earlier (but it might have been in another tread... Dont recall exactly where or when), the motor rotates in a full 360* circle. It is not a forward and reverse operation like a window motor.

The up or down position of the lid is equal to 180* motor rotation (i.e., the motor rotates 180* to lift the light, then rotates the next 180* or the full 360* to lower it back down)... This is why the throw arm needs to be shorten (along with the link rod) to allow for the light to open and close properly but with a lower open height... Its lengh is (mount hole center to ball center) is 1/2" the 1.85 ratio of the desired open height....

Here's a simple equation lets say that you want the open height to be 4" (Again, this is true vertical height from closed. 4 / 1.85 / 2 = 1.081"

So to get have the lid open 4", the distance the ball on the throw arm needs to be from the center of rotation (i.e., the center of the hole where the arm mounts to the motor) needs to be 1.081".

After that is done, then the link arm can be made. Just have to have the light down and the motor down and the link arm length can be measured and made..

One thing to note with the link rod. The throw arm has to be positioned so that the ball on the arm and the ball on the light housing is in alignment and on the same line as the rotation stud of the motor that the throw arm attaches to... If all three points are not on the same line, you can cause the motor to get stuck or cause the light to open or close too far as this will cause the link rod length to be slighly off...
im sure i mentioned most of that in a previos post and simpler too understand..

i just read this an got a lil lost

as too can i make different sizes..
i can see if i can
or i can just use the same set up and not cut it and that might just work for the 6x4's

i believe i cut between 1/4 and 1/2 for these hella's
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post #95 of 170 (permalink) Old February 18th, 2010, 21:06
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A guy at the shop has his mr2 there getting alot worked on and one of the guys is working on some headlights. He said if enough people were interested he would make a mold before the customer picked up the car. He said the lights would come with housings, lights and instructions. How much would you guys be willing to pay for something like this?




The lights are still being tweaked to give fitment 100% spot on. The plexi is just temp so he can mock fit everything. He should have them 100% done next week sometime.
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post #96 of 170 (permalink) Old February 19th, 2010, 00:20
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depending on how the lighting is on the road with HIDs/cutoffs and what not, i'll be interested!
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post #97 of 170 (permalink) Old February 21st, 2010, 00:56 Thread Starter
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600 would probably be the price range for those, and thats if it works, has good light easy bolt in, with out modification, etc


looks very nice so far, show the rest of the progress
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post #98 of 170 (permalink) Old February 21st, 2010, 12:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatline16
A guy at the shop has his mr2 there getting alot worked on and one of the guys is working on some headlights. He said if enough people were interested he would make a mold before the customer picked up the car. He said the lights would come with housings, lights and instructions. How much would you guys be willing to pay for something like this?




The lights are still being tweaked to give fitment 100% spot on. The plexi is just temp so he can mock fit everything. He should have them 100% done next week sometime.

Those lens are going to leak like a stuffed pig. Im not trying to shoot down your idea but im speaking from experience. Once they leak then they start to get moldy and disgusting.

Then you say oh just take off the lens and clean them out. Bad idea as the screw use very thin threads and strip out very easy. So at best youll clean them out once after everything is painted and then you wont be able to put them back in the second time.

Also Marley I think $600 is to high for this market. For that price you can get rev6 and we all know the majority here would take the rev6. The only reason why half our community doesnt have them is because of price.

Again im not trying to rain on anyones parade or your body shops parade. But actually have the same thing molded in for the last 7yrs if you check the previous page. So I am speaking from facts here and not ideas.

David
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post #99 of 170 (permalink) Old February 21st, 2010, 12:31
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Why would those particular lenses leak? I would think there would be some kind of seal around the housing and the lens cover to stop water and dirt.
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post #100 of 170 (permalink) Old February 21st, 2010, 14:34 Thread Starter
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Holy is right, i you keep the plexi, but if you are molding a lens for it, i would believe it wont.

I only disagree with you holy on one point, the rev6, i dont think every one does not have it because of price, i actually am not a fan of it, its still very retro.

and a good non OEM flush-mount has yet to made, if these where to be as quality as the OEM units, and done like "the Beast" which is what they are copied off of, I do think they would sell. but thats just my thoughts.


They wont sell like hot cakes, but no headlight conversion has cause of the price tag entailed to them.
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