Painting interior trim..... - Page 4 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #61 of 76 (permalink) Old March 26th, 2006, 15:03
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how do i start

i read one of the messages of someone telling another guy how to paint over the blue paint already in his car. my mr2 is still stock and i want to paint the black plastic pieces. do i start the same way even tho there isnt any paint on it already?
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post #62 of 76 (permalink) Old March 26th, 2006, 15:23
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you must use an adhesion promoter and a chemical designed to prep plastic for painting. I use Sherwin Williams SC159, it is an anti static plastic cleaner for raw plastic.

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post #63 of 76 (permalink) Old March 27th, 2006, 17:15
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you add this after you sand the pastic smooth? or u add this and then sand it?
 
post #64 of 76 (permalink) Old March 27th, 2006, 18:34
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you clean then scuff/sand then clean again then apply adhesion promoter to the raw plastic then paint. It is avaiable in an aerosol. The best aerosol one is called Bulldog. Make sure it is not too cold or this stuff will not lay out.

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post #65 of 76 (permalink) Old August 25th, 2006, 03:41
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Would there be a way to use this to cover up the cracked ashtrays that i know so many of us have?

or would they just show right through?
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post #66 of 76 (permalink) Old October 22nd, 2006, 01:30
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great writeup. i should have mine done tomorrow and i'll post pics after that.


word of advice, though. I tried painting at night bc there was no wind, etc, and i could do it outside, but it hit the dew point and the paint bubbled up...had to sand and redo in the morning..

great look, though. I'm using satin black fusion, 400 grit on bare plastic, 2 full coats, and polish afterwards. I'm pretty happy with it. looks like black leather again.

I also noticed that meguirs fine-cut cleaner mirror glaze, level 4, when rubbed on black plastic turns the plastic to the same sheen as the fusion black satin....


just something to think about

Last edited by Paq; October 22nd, 2006 at 01:38.
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post #67 of 76 (permalink) Old October 23rd, 2006, 16:29
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hey, just finished. I removed the dash pieces, scuffed with 400 grit sandpaper, sprayed on with krylon fusion satin black, let it dry, sprayed again and installed. i tried sanding a piece after paintng, but decided i liked the orange peel look better. It looks like wet leather and matches the black leather very well.

I was also able to remove a scratch in the glovebox that my car's had for at least 10 yrs. You can still see it, but you reallly have to look. I did not want to sand the entire thing smooth bc i like the plastic's texture.

on the other hand, if i repaint, i'll probably sand and lay on a thicker primer and sand that down and respray. I don't think i'll end up doing that.

i'm pretty happy with the result

picture linked due to size:
http://web.infoave.net/~chrissul/paintdash.jpg http://web.infoave.net/~chrissul/paintdash2.jpg it's not a drastic change, but it certainly looks sweeter than the faded black plastic look i had going on.

Last edited by Paq; October 29th, 2006 at 05:58.
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post #68 of 76 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2007, 00:48
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Hey, just wanted to say that there are many shops out there that will do a horrible job, especially when they're not making jack squat off of painting a few interior trim pieces. Don't doubt the rattle can for it can do amazing things when done right. Most of the info. here is amazing and all you really need to get your pieces done right. Don't RUSH. Don't spray thick coats, painting is time consuming, thin coats are better, no drips and caked on paint that will take forever to dry. Paint from 8 to 10 inches away or so. Sand it down BEFORE you paint it, make the surface rough and it'll grab paint much better (except for maybe this plastic paint everyone's talking about which is news to me). Oh and, for those of you who have yet to paint, don't use a rattle-can if it's almost out of paint, get a new one. Cans tend to squirt huge chunks of paint out when they're about to die, don't want to get everything done nice and neat and then get huge drops of paint on your piece (personal experience), and no, you can't grab something and try to wipe it off real quick (not a personal experience but I've seen someone else do it). Take your time, do it right, and guaranteed it'll look like you got it done by a very professional shop that would actually invest good work on such a small job. I'll try to post some DIY pics soon, mine are getting to the point where they need to be resprayed as well.


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post #69 of 76 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2008, 04:42
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Here's a question for you guys:

I have the blue vinyl dash on my 91, and its showing its age. I want to repaint it, probably with a Black or Graphite. Will the vinyl accept being painted? Will the paint crack in the heat of the Florida summer that is almost upon me? I'd like to use this stuff, and I see that it will adhere to "Hard Vinyl". Does this count as hard vinyl?
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusio...tured_shimmer/
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post #70 of 76 (permalink) Old September 24th, 2008, 01:21
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I wonder if anyone else who read this thinks that all of the suggestions are wrong for trying to restore the interior trim pieces? In order to "paint" the interior, then these suggestions would work, but there is a way to "restore" the interior, and there are many colors available. It is called vinyl dye, and it is cheap. There is no sanding, just washing the old armor-all off with soap & water. Then you tape anything you don't want sprayed and use the rattle-can of vinyl dye. Let it dry (quicker than paint) and your original texture is not compromised/covered up/ruined. Well, I hope all those who painted their trim and layered it on are not dissatisfied with the results, but I would never do it! Just an opinion, but I thought this was the section for restoration, and paint covers up instead of restores.
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post #71 of 76 (permalink) Old September 25th, 2008, 06:44
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Will a light colored vinyl dye (such as light gray) work on the dark blue interior? Or will the blue show through?
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post #72 of 76 (permalink) Old September 25th, 2008, 18:03
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If you prep it and cover it properly you will be fine.

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post #73 of 76 (permalink) Old December 21st, 2008, 03:12
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hi,

can you also use the Krylon Fusion paint on the outside mouldings such as the windsheild, base windows and rear window trim mouldings?

do you sand these mouldings first?

thx
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post #74 of 76 (permalink) Old December 21st, 2008, 08:15
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I am pretty sure it is an indoor/outdoor paint. I recommend scuffing the plastic with a red scotchbrite pad or 400grit sand paper. Clean first...then scuff..then clean again.

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post #75 of 76 (permalink) Old December 23rd, 2008, 09:45
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Yep, the Fusion is weatherproof. It'll do great on any solid plastic, inside or out.
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post #76 of 76 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2012, 01:03
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I have a 91 Mr2 na with blue interior, just pick up a center console that is black, i want to paint it blue to match the rest of the interior. can anyone suggest the correct color match a good paint to use?
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