Painting interior trim..... - Page 2 - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #21 of 76 (permalink) Old July 2nd, 2005, 08:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Deuce
how well would the paint hold up if you were take it to a fairly desent paintshop and have them paint it the same way as they would with a car?

If they prep it properly it will last pretty good. It is going to really cost you to get someone to do that, into the hundreds of bux depending one how much you want painted. If it isnt prepped properly you payed out the yang and it will peel very quickly.
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post #22 of 76 (permalink) Old July 2nd, 2005, 10:41
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i'm glad i happened to see this, i need to repaint the inside of my 2, the paint that was put on there peels terrible. you leave the car with little black specs all over!
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post #23 of 76 (permalink) Old August 24th, 2005, 15:37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Legs
If they prep it properly it will last pretty good. It is going to really cost you to get someone to do that, into the hundreds of bux depending one how much you want painted. If it isnt prepped properly you payed out the yang and it will peel very quickly.

i dont want to pay out the yang. please tell me where that is so i am sure to avoid it. thank you.

v/r,
steven
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post #24 of 76 (permalink) Old September 23rd, 2005, 00:42
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painting interior trim... mirror finish

I'd love to paint the plastic trim piece around the radio, gauge cluster, and the ashtray. The interior of a Z8 inspired me with it's mirror like finish. I just want to paint it black, but I want the car paintjob look... real shiny. What's the best way of doing this? I don't want any imperfections, just nice, smooth, and no orange peal. What kind of paint should I use? Spray gun or just some spray paint out of the bottle from Autozone? And what grit sand paper should I work from, start to finish...? Thanks for the help!
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post #25 of 76 (permalink) Old September 23rd, 2005, 01:44
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I used Krylon plastic paint... it has a really glossy finish. I layed it on really thick (2 cans for all of the dash pieces) and followed it with wetsanding. Looks shiney and good in my opinion. Too bad I don't have a digi-cam.
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post #26 of 76 (permalink) Old September 23rd, 2005, 01:50
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Yeah, That new Krylon Fusion paint is made to Chemically BOND the paint to the plastic, not just stick to it...
It is good quality stuff!
I did 2 coats and a clear on a friends car with no problems, and a constant beautiful shine!
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post #27 of 76 (permalink) Old September 23rd, 2005, 02:12
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wetsand it with a 600 grit. Basically so its not shiny anymore. Then try the Krylon Fusion or take it to a body shop. For the little paint that it takes to do it, it would probably only cost you like 30 to 40 bucks to have it professionally done and perfect. Its already sanded so they wouldnt charge you 35 to 45 bucks an hour to sand it. It would honestly probably take them 15 minutes to mix the paint and paint it. If you want it perfect, take it to a body shop.
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post #28 of 76 (permalink) Old September 23rd, 2005, 02:19
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my buddy does paint and body work pretty well, but I wanted to see some of your guys' ideas... I like to be pretty open when going about different tasks like this. I'll do it on my own, practice on some other plastic I don't care about first, then work from there. But the Krylon Fusion paint... forgot about that. Thanks guys!
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post #29 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 01:07
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Alright, the finish isn't THAT shiny, but it looks good. I'd like to finish it off with a clearcoat... any recommendations on what clear to choose from?
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post #30 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 01:11
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uh, if you rattle canned it, then just use a rattle can clear coat. i wouldnt go cheap on it though, go with the 6 dollar can not the 4 dollar can

post some pics!
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post #31 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 02:21
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haha, I have some left over DupliColor clear coat here I might use. It was about $5 for this petty little can, probably need more. Give me another day and I'll post pictures!
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post #32 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 02:32
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Be careful... when I painted my dash with the Krylon plastic paint, I used a clear coat (I think it was DupliColor actually) about 2 days later. Apparently, certain types of paint can interact negatively with other types of paint. Almost the instant that the clear coat spray hit the cured Krylon paint, the Krylon started to peel up, and crack and crinkle. It was really sweet to watch, but pretty frustrating, since I had to sand everything off and start all over. If I were you, I'd try just wetsanding it first (followed by a polishing compound), and see if that gets you the shine you're looking for. If it were me, I wouldn't risk it. You could ask 8Legs what kind of paints you can and can't mix. But I think there's something special about the plastic paint that lets it stick to the plastic, but also causes it to freak out if you mix it with other paints.
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post #33 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 03:38
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in all reality, if you want it to look super nice, bring it to a shop and have them spray it. i just cant see rattle canning it would look nice or last as long as you would like it too.
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post #34 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 03:47
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If all else fails I'll just take a spray gun to it with some jet black base coat/clear coat paint. That way it'll never ruin away, but I'd like to see what I can do on my own, as well as test out the finish on the Fusion paint. Instead of the clearcoat, I'm going to take 2000 grit, rubbing compound, polishing compound, than polish to finish off the pieces. I'm pretty sure it'll look damn good. But we'll see!
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post #35 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 12:08
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Mine dash looks like it was professionally painted. After I wetsanded the paint, it was so smooth and glossy. It will look fine. There's no reason you can't do it yourself... it's not brain surgery. I agree with you... you should just see what you're capable of.
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post #36 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 12:12
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I only have one more piece of advice. 2000 grit sand paper will take a lot of work to take off orange peel. You should start with 1000 grit, then use 1500 grit, then 2000 grit, while actually using soapy water to wash away all the little particles of paint while you're sanding. And the most important thing, is to make sure that you laid the paint down really thick everywhere. Especially in all the little corners or bends in the plastic. These areas have a tendency to have less coverage than flat areas, and there is a good chance that you'll sand right through the paint trying to get rid of orange peel, and then you'll have to start over.
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post #37 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 15:00
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I started sanding the "ignition key surround clip" today and after sanding and rubbing/polishing compound, the actual polish started to break down the paint and peel it away... so I need to wait at least another day till I start sanding. On the other hand, it was looking really good, so we'll see. I still have other pieces to prep! Thanks guys!
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post #38 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 15:16
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Can anyone post pics of a do it yourself interior paint job. When I got my 2 the interior plastic was riced out. And obviously a DIY job. I want to retore it to black but replacing is expensive. Would love to paint it.
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post #39 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 15:37
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Why don't you just sand the paint off? It'll only take a few hours. Start with a low grit like 400, and after all the paint is gone, work your way up to higher grits to smooth out the plastic. Or you could just buy new dash pieces for like $150 total
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post #40 of 76 (permalink) Old September 28th, 2005, 15:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr20nza
I started sanding the "ignition key surround clip" today and after sanding and rubbing/polishing compound, the actual polish started to break down the paint and peel it away... so I need to wait at least another day till I start sanding. On the other hand, it was looking really good, so we'll see. I still have other pieces to prep! Thanks guys!
Yeah... I waited a week after painting to sand it. But did you do know that rubbing compound and polishing compound are two different things?
Rubbing compound has fine particles in it, that essentially have the same effect as sand paper.
Polishing compound also has fine particles in it, but these particles break down as you polish and become smaller and smaller... that is how you get a more polished effect. Polishing compound is less abrasive overall than rubbing compound, which means it is not good for removing tar or sap or bird crap, but is really good for polishing out paint and making good condition paint look really shiney and glossy. You should make sure that you are using polishing compound instead of rubbing compound.
I consider rubbing compound to be the same as using 1000-1500 grit sand paper. There are different "cuts" of rubbing compound, that have larger and smaller particles, but since it doesn't break down, it can never have the same polishing effects as polishing compound.
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