Ground Control Coilover Sleeves - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old March 20th, 2017, 13:13 Thread Starter
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Ground Control Coilover Sleeves

I currently have Eibach Pros on my AW11, and the is still a couple of inches too high. I want to lower the car on a budget, besides cutting the springs which is horrible I want to weld on some coilover sleeves to the strut carriers. The Ground Control ones are nice but still pricey at around $500, so I'm thinking I might be able to save some $$$$ if I just buy a pair of 200# springs and a pair of 250# springs along with some coilover perches and top hats. Is it possible? Anyone have the dimensions of the springs, the diameter of the strut carrier, etc.?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old March 20th, 2017, 13:17 Thread Starter
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It looks like I can buy perches and top hats from Koni at Summit Racing, they have springs there as well. If someone has the dimensions for me I'd like to compare the cost of buying it separately vs. buying the Ground Control kit.

Edit: So the springs on the Ground Control Kit are 7" long x 2.5" ID, with 250# in the rear and 200# up front. I think that is a little high for the spring rate, at least in the front so I'll get 175# in the fronts. I found some coilover perches as well, it says it fits a 2" steel body Koni strut carrier, so I'll just double check. But for all that I will have coilovers for $300.

Last edited by achulz; March 20th, 2017 at 14:27.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old March 20th, 2017, 14:27
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unless you enjoy riding on your bump stops, you can not lower these cars very much without real coil overs that have shortened strut housings. you will have no suspension travel at all if you lower the car to where the tires have no space to the wheel arch. trust me, i have been through this. i ended up doing custom strut housing mods that were very difficult to do to gain back the 1 inch travel I lost by lowering my car even modestly.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old March 20th, 2017, 23:06 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyS View Post
unless you enjoy riding on your bump stops, you can not lower these cars very much without real coil overs that have shortened strut housings. you will have no suspension travel at all if you lower the car to where the tires have no space to the wheel arch. trust me, i have been through this. i ended up doing custom strut housing mods that were very difficult to do to gain back the 1 inch travel I lost by lowering my car even modestly.
I don't really mind. The roads around here are actually pretty smooth. I'm doing it more for looks than anything.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old March 21st, 2017, 10:15
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I don't think you understand. when you lower the perch like that, you have less than 1/2 inch suspension travel piston on your strut active. doesn't matter if you are on the smoothest road in the world. These cars had marginal travel even at their stock ride height. do what you want to do, but you will be basically running a car with no front suspension.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old March 21st, 2017, 11:16 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by andyS View Post
I don't think you understand. when you lower the perch like that, you have less than 1/2 inch suspension travel piston on your strut active. doesn't matter if you are on the smoothest road in the world. These cars had marginal travel even at their stock ride height. do what you want to do, but you will be basically running a car with no front suspension.
Well they are coilovers. If I want to I can raise the ride height and get the suspension travel back, at least a decent amount. Then I can lower it whenever I want to show the car or whatever.

I just need one more thing for my DIY coilovers, and that's the measurement for the OD of these strut housings, where I weld the perches to. I found a kit that says it fits 2" diameter steel body strut housings, but I need to make sure that the housings are not too large or too small.

This is what I'm referencing:



Edit: I see in another thread that you also modified the strut housings by moving up the mounting to give another inch or so of strut travel. I can do that as well, is there a particular way you remove the mounting bracket to re-weld it further up?
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Last edited by achulz; March 21st, 2017 at 11:25.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old March 21st, 2017, 12:46
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I see in another thread that you also modified the strut housings by moving up the mounting to give another inch or so of strut travel. I can do that as well, is there a particular way you remove the mounting bracket to re-weld it further up?
that was a one off figure it out as i went kind of job. there is not quite enough clearance under the strut to extend the thing down without interference, and that made it difficult to do. I just found some pipe stock the right size for the bottom extension, cut a slice out near the top the right amount --(about a 1 inch slice-but down a bit so you don't mess up the threads for the inserts), and extended the bottom down with the pipe stock the same amount. welded it all back up and then had to do some grinding on the bottom to get it to fit right.

that extra 1 inch of travel in the front transformed my car BTW. no longer hit the bump stops hardly ever. i am not slammed though, or I probably still would.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old March 21st, 2017, 12:55 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyS View Post
that was a one off figure it out as i went kind of job. there is not quite enough clearance under the strut to extend the thing down without interference, and that made it difficult to do. I just found some pipe stock the right size for the bottom extension, cut a slice out near the top the right amount --(about a 1 inch slice-but down a bit so you don't mess up the threads for the inserts), and extended the bottom down with the pipe stock the same amount. welded it all back up and then had to do some grinding on the bottom to get it to fit right.

that extra 1 inch of travel in the front transformed my car BTW. no longer hit the bump stops hardly ever. i am not slammed though, or I probably still would.
I think I will do the same thing, that inch of travel makes a big difference when you only have about 2 inches in the first place. Do you know the outside diameter of the strut housings? I might have to go get a cheap caliper and measure it if anything, just to make sure those sleeves will fit.

But what I'm looking at right now:

175# front springs from Summit Racing, 7 inches long with 2.5" ID (2 @ $34.97)
250# rear springs from Summit Racing, 7 inches long with 2.5" ID (2 @ $34.97)
Allstar Performance 2.5" Coil-Over Kit, for 2.5" ID Springs and 2" Strut Housings (4 Sets @ $36.99, comes with a sleeve, locking nut, conical top hat)

All that for $287.84. I have enough scrap steel to make spring seats and modify the housings. Just gotta make sure the sleeves will fit then I should be good to go. Will have to use OEM struts for a week but will be buying the Koni adjustable inserts ASAP. Can I use the stock upper strut mounts? Or do I need to get those Techno Toy Tuning camber plates? And are those spring rates okay or do I need something higher/lower?
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