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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old January 8th, 2017, 23:31 Thread Starter
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Random Tox, thank you very much for the manuals. i searched and searched but really couldnt find much. This will really help.

Ok, latest on the Mr Twotle saga. The wife and I had to go to Johnson City(TN)(30+ miles away) first of last week. Nice day so we took the mr2. It did the usual, not changed into over drive. This was the wife's first drive leaving Mountain City going west. There's a section of road that we think is very comparable to The Snake(hwy 421) that we call The Jungle. A very tight, twisty, fun rural road. The mr2 never made it out of 3rd gear but it was fun. Then on the highways, 3rd gear, revving at 3k rpm at 55 or so, really made the fuel economy suck. But once we just about got to our first destination in Johnson City, it SHIFTED into OD. By this time, the engine was at temperature. Since we had 3 places to go and all were withing 2 blocks, we never got up to speed for OD change. Then, on the way back home, this car shifted like a dream. About 2k rpm doing 60+ mph. Never used a drop of fuel(it didnt look like). We really, REALLY liked the feel of the car then. So I'm guessing the engine temp just got up to normal range from the long drive.
Now, the gauge, after the first 10-15 miles, it raised up above the C, but only for a very short time(a few minutes), then dropped back down below C. It stayed there the whole day. Then when we get back home, I get out to close the gate and I hear the radiator fan on. I'm suspecting that the drive up our hill made it 'struggle' a bit(we live on a mountain). But when I walked back down the drive to the car, fan was off and there was NO odor of over heating.
Oh, since we were over in JC, I called the Toyota dealer to inquire if they had a stock thermostat. They didnt and couldnt get one until (last) Friday. That meant another 35 mile(each way) drive. Plus, our weather was forecast to be in single digits and SNOW starting, so no trip to JC. We did get about 7-8 inches of snow so now we're stuck on the mountain for a few more days. Anyway, with the cold and snow, the thermostat will have to wait as the car's sitting under the carport out of the weather. I have an aftermarket thermostat which I want to try first and see what happens. If it does the same, I'll order a Toyota one and change it then. But with the nearest Toyota dealer 35+ miles way, it takes time.
So, thanks again for all the input. It has to be just the thermostat. If it was anything else, it would not shift into OD after driving 30 miles and work like a charm.
As it warms up and we change the thermostat, I'll update. Thanks again.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old January 10th, 2017, 11:29
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I was looking at the AT troubleshooting section of the BGB and noticed the first step is very easy and will eliminate a lot of possibilities if false. Just disconnect the AT computer and see if it goes to OD while manually shifting up through the range. A quick test, though I do think you problem lies elsewhere in the thermostat or engine temp sensor.



The radiator fan is controlled by the radiator temp sensor, and it's normal for the fan to kick on during a drive and remain running for a minute after shutdown. Normally you'll notice it in stop/go traffic where the airflow is interrupted. The fact that this is the first you've experienced it does indicate thermostat is stuck open. Common result of cheap thermostats.

Note that there is also an engine bay temp sensor that controls the side port fan in a similar manner.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old January 10th, 2017, 22:58 Thread Starter
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Where is and how do I disconnect the AT computer? Then, how do I test the circuit voltage?

I'll first change the thermostat first and go from there. This is getting technical over my head.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old January 19th, 2017, 01:56 Thread Starter
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UPDATE!!! We have OD!!!

Finally, I got the thermostat replaced. Sorry it's taken so long to update. Anyway, after(I have to confess severe stupidity here) finally finding the damn thermostat, I decided that I didnt want to replace it in my driveway. So I took the MR2 to a shop that our charity uses(Homer's Auto Repair) and had the mechanic do it there. I did use an aftermarket unit as the dealers near us did not have them in stock. So I wanted to try this anyway.
After the thermostat was replaced, upon driving it home, it took almost a mile for the car to warm up. The temp gauge actually worked. As it climbed to the temp, doing about 50 mph at 3000 rpm, it suddenly shifted into OD.
I slowed down, it downshifted back down to 2nd, I sped up and it shifted like butter, in ALL the gears.
I am a happy man. So, thank you EVERYONE that submitted suggestions and help. I really appreciate it.

Now, any suggestion on how to make this little car a Canyon Carver? We live in the county here in Tenn., that has the twisty road called The Snake(not to be confused with The Dragon). Actually the Snake is only a few miles away. When we had our 944 and took it there, we were actually very disappointed. Our AWD Toyota Previa van actually does better than the 944 did. But I'm really looking forward to taking the MR2 there.
Is there a bar that can be purchased that goes between the rear shock mounts to stiffen the rear? The car already has slotted and drilled rotors. Any goodies to look at?

Again, thank you everyone for your input. You REALLY made a difference.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old January 19th, 2017, 16:59
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Originally Posted by Racing Dreamz View Post
Is there a bar that can be purchased that goes between the rear shock mounts to stiffen the rear?
I am not a believer in the rear strut tower brace on the Mk1 MR2s. If you look a the construction, there is a very rigid box built around the engine. The struts towers are part of this box and are therefor quite well reinforced.

Cusco used to make a rear bar.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old January 20th, 2017, 15:31
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Congrats, on the OD fix, glad we were able to point you in the correct direction that worked and solved that problem. In regards to improved driveability/handling of the Mr2, the forums and web are full of good info. In my opinion, first you must make sure your current suspension (ball joints, inner and outer tie rods (front and back), wheel bearings, and your shocks should be in good nick. It's easy to DIY/check the condition of all these items. For shocks, I recommend KYB's, or if you have the budget, KONIS are ideal. DO NOT use cheap shocks such as Monroe etc. they are pure crap on a sports car. The COMPLETE Prothane Suspension bushing kit upgrade (sway bar and the steering rack bushing included) was by far the best $120 I ever spent on my Mr2! I highly recommend it! Also, install the factory oem FRONT STRUT brace if your car does not have one. In regards to installing a aftermarket REAR STRUT brace, I have installed a Cusco rear brace on my SC, and I personally love the improvement. Makes the rear engine "box" suspension area tight as a drum. No body flex now, AT ALL, through out the chassis! I also highly recommend a set of Eibach Sport lowering springs, very nice inexpensive upgrade. If your car does not have a rear sway bar, that is a great improvement as well (do your research on this install). Wider than stock tires is very helpful as well, 205's are nice and fit well and give you a bit wider footprint. A simple and cheap brake pad upgrade (front and back) with StopTech Performance pads does a very nice job over stock pads. Lastly, a weekend sports "driving class" can greatly improve your driving skills. These simple improvements really help this great car turn it into a "poor man's Lotus" in no time. Good luck and ...Git-er-Done.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old January 20th, 2017, 16:37
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Originally Posted by Racing Dreamz View Post
...I got the thermostat replaced.... it took almost a mile for the car to warm up. The temp gauge actually worked. As it climbed to the temp, doing about 50 mph at 3000 rpm, it suddenly shifted into OD....
The system works!
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old January 25th, 2017, 16:59 Thread Starter
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I dont know what kind of shocks is on the car. But it does have drilled and slotted rotors. Dont know the brake pads as they are new when I got the car. It's pretty stiff and it handles quite nice now. As soon as I find if it has stock shocks or not, I'll post.
Anyway, here's a few pics.

That kraut eatin' thing wanted his picture taken also.....
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