My 2GRFE Build Street and Track Focus - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old December 12th, 2016, 10:59 Thread Starter
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My 2GRFE Build Street and Track Focus

I am starting a new build and direction with my MR2 and will be documenting my progress here and in our local group, www.northeastmr2.com

Going on year 13 of MR2 ownership I am really intrigued buy something NEW in our community, the 2GR swap. After driving a few at the bear mount meets, I was convinced this was for me. Most of my turbo powered friends dont understand, but thats ok. I am coming from a 360hp build gen2 motor. GT28rs turbo. Many years tweaking and fixing this setup.

Some history, most of the image links area dead, these are old posts. Countless hours and projects over the years.
gt28rs-ex-gate-build-completed-tuned
gt28rs-tial-housing-completed-tuned-rockin
my-winter-build-stronger-faster
10-years-making-my-labor-love-fully-restored

I have since "retired" the car from track duty and invested in a more modern platform. Too much broken, wasted time and money trying to make it a reliable track car. Hopefully the NA 2GR will allow me to take it back out for some fun days again. My MR2 has been on street duty for 3 years now.

This build will be street focused that is capable of hitting the track with no extra prep besides a brake pad swap. Always be NA no intention for SC or boost.

THANK YOU @Gouky for making this all possible. You will see my order soon enough.
Thank you Dave Mush and Toyota performance garage for the inspiration and test drives.

Got the motor home. RAv4 engine with 80k miles on it. Fresh pull from a local yard.
2GRFE MR2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr

2GRFE MR2 by mhulbrock, on Flickr
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old December 12th, 2016, 23:23
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I don't think you'll have any regrets. Mine has been an awesome workhorse and taken tons of abuse over the last 5-6 years.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old December 13th, 2016, 02:03
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Do you still have the 350z you mentioned in the other thread? This should be an interesting comparison.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old December 13th, 2016, 08:28 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by merryfrankster View Post
Do you still have the 350z you mentioned in the other thread? This should be an interesting comparison.
Yea, its pretty much been turned into a dedicated track car at this point. If your curious.
Track Day Z Project - MY350Z.COM Forums
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old December 13th, 2016, 17:04
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You need anything, ask.

I do have a ton of other wiring harness and relay blocks still.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old December 19th, 2016, 10:48 Thread Starter
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First fix. Replaced a cracked COP connector (90980-11885) and throttle body connector (90980-11858)

These were pretty easy to de-pin and fix. Pull out the middle white part first to access the pin release.

Untitled by mhulbrock, on Flickr
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 06:55
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That 2gr looks very clean! Mine was a little rough when I got it. I think I've replaced about 5 or 6 broken connectors. Be sure to inspect the harness very closely, I found a spot that looked fine overall but it was pinched a little, so I pulled off the split loom and unwrapped the tape to find 3 broken wires... dodged that bullet. My 2gr is alllllmooosttt ready to go in the car. Ive got all of the wiring figured out *crosses fingers* and Im ready to mate up the E153. Still got a few things to work out but feel free to contact me if you need any help at all. Im not an expert but Im pretty far along and Ive def worked out some tricks. LOL
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 09:45 Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks for the offer!

Progress from last night. Welded on AN fittings to run to my external oil cooler. I am using a Non cooler motor with an oil cooler upper oil pan from the mini van.

Thanks @donteatbugs for the inspiration here, not as clean as your welds. Still perfecting my aluminum technique.
Untitled by mhulbrock, on Flickr

Last edited by Blurvision; December 20th, 2016 at 09:48.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 10:22
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Originally Posted by Blurvision View Post
Progress from last night. Welded on AN fittings to run to my external oil cooler. I am using a Non cooler motor with an oil cooler upper oil pan from the mini van.
Planning on doing this as well!


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 10:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blurvision View Post
Cool, thanks for the offer!

Progress from last night. Welded on AN fittings to run to my external oil cooler. I am using a Non cooler motor with an oil cooler upper oil pan from the mini van.

Thanks @donteatbugs for the inspiration here, not as clean as your welds. Still perfecting my aluminum technique.
Me too. In fact I have mine apart right now. Can you please share with us which fittings you used?
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 13:04
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I actually used the -10 an fittings that came on my DER-51610 Fluid Cooler, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Black, 16-Row, -10 AN, 6.688 in. x 13 in. x 2 in.

I have a friend that tig welds aluminum and he cut the oring side off with a band saw and welded me up.


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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 13:12
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If you don't have a kit that came with fittings you want to re-use, you can buy weld-on AN fittings anywhere those sorts of fittings are sold.

Another option would be to drill and tap the pan for an NPT thread and use an AN-NPT adapter. If you don't have easy access to a welder, this would be an easier option, though perhaps not quite as elegant.


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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 13:29
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I dont think there is enough meat on the flange to drill and tap it large enough to keep the -10 flow size. welding is about the only option here. You can barely see it in this picture how the flange is big but its just a tiny cast pipe behind it.



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Last edited by donteatbugs; December 20th, 2016 at 13:35.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 13:44 Thread Starter
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Personally I like to use Earls as they have a nice bumped out portion that will keep itself centered in the hole when welding. I enlarged the very edge of the oil pan hole slightly with a step bit, for a snug fit on the earls base

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-997110erl
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 13:50
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Perfect! Thanks guys.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 14:22
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I have a non-cooler pan and I was thinking of doing this:

Baxter Performance


and this:

https://www.earls.com.au/product-cat...pass-adapters/


with a generic air-cooled oil radiator in the passenger side vent.

Aside from cost, any thoughts on this solution? Wondering if it will flow enough to be effective.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 15:05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donteatbugs View Post
I dont think there is enough meat on the flange to drill and tap it large enough to keep the -10 flow size. welding is about the only option here. You can barely see it in this picture how the flange is big but its just a tiny cast pipe behind it.
Ahh, I see what you mean. From all the pictures I had seen, I assumed it was more of a solid boss there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blurvision View Post
Personally I like to use Earls as they have a nice bumped out portion that will keep itself centered in the hole when welding. I enlarged the very edge of the oil pan hole slightly with a step bit, for a snug fit on the earls base

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-997110erl
I haven't run into a weld-on fitting that didn't have that bump, but I agree, that bump is super nice to have!


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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 19:13
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The factory oil cooler pan is only about $140, 30% cheaper than that adapter and you also don't have to buy a remote oil filter mount saving even more money.

part number is 12111-31150.

Installation is a touch more complicated but not having as many hoses in the engine bay is a good thing. just remember the MR2 turbo's hose from hell
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old December 20th, 2016, 20:00
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That's really not bad. I thought they were more than that (and it looks like most places they are closer to 175-180. But it's listed for 136 here: 12111-31150 - Genuine Toyota PAN SUB-ASSY, OIL Granted it's more like 155 with shipping...

Considering that crusty old pans from a junk yard are typically around 100 on ebay... new might not be a bad option. Especially since they don't seem to be all that plentiful on ebay.


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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old January 3rd, 2017, 09:07 Thread Starter
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Old spark plugs looked original, new ones swapped ready to go.


Moroso oil pan form monkey wrench racing. Had one on my gen2 and always was flawless, cured my oil slosh issues. Some good security here. Also, more oil capacity.

View of the swing door, same on both sides.
Untitled by mhulbrock, on Flickr

2GRFE moroso monkey wrench racing oil pan by mhulbrock, on Flickr

You might be curious why there are three plugs at the very bottom. They are access holes for the nuts. Be very careful when bolting them down not to drop the nut inside the pan. Ask me how I know
2GRFE moroso monkey wrench racing oil pan by mhulbrock, on Flickr
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