MKII MR2 audio install How-To guide - MR2 Owners Club Message Board
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post #1 of 58 (permalink) Old March 4th, 2005, 21:43 Thread Starter
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MKII MR2 audio install How-To guide

I've created a How-To guide for doing an aftermarket audio install in a MKII MR2, you can check it out here:

http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2audio.html

It gives instructions for a '91 with the premium sound system, but some portions are applicable to any year MKII, such as:

Mounting woofers with spacer rings,
Wiring an amplifier in the front trunk, and
Removing the stock head unit

Hope this helps,

-Stephen M

Last edited by Stephen M; March 4th, 2005 at 21:44. Reason: fix link
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post #2 of 58 (permalink) Old March 15th, 2005, 12:56
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Excellent write up. It probably took as much time to write it as it took to do the actual install.
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post #3 of 58 (permalink) Old March 17th, 2005, 17:37
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen M
I've created a How-To guide for doing an aftermarket audio install in a MKII MR2, you can check it out here:

http://stephenmason.com/cars/mr2audio.html

It gives instructions for a '91 with the premium sound system, but some portions are applicable to any year MKII, such as:

Mounting woofers with spacer rings,
Wiring an amplifier in the front trunk, and
Removing the stock head unit
-Stephen M

You are the man, now if only someone can put together some dimensions for a sub box I would be a very happy man.
Hope this helps,
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post #4 of 58 (permalink) Old March 17th, 2005, 17:41
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STICKY THIS!
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post #5 of 58 (permalink) Old June 22nd, 2005, 17:38
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what dimension was the sub box you used?
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post #6 of 58 (permalink) Old July 30th, 2005, 02:58
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just printing it off to read it right now. didnt realise it was 63 pages!
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post #7 of 58 (permalink) Old April 1st, 2006, 22:36
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how well is the amp rack held in place while you're driving, or is it nothing to worry about? also, what kind of quick disconnects could you get to make the amp rack easier to remove?
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post #8 of 58 (permalink) Old June 29th, 2006, 23:44
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Hey, do you happen to have that birds eye view of the Mr2 without all the audio stuff?

Could you email it to me at monimaid@cox.net if you do please?
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post #9 of 58 (permalink) Old August 6th, 2006, 20:49 Thread Starter
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Sincere apologies for the late replies, I check this board daily but didn't think to check the stickies for new posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsus
how well is the amp rack held in place while you're driving, or is it nothing to worry about? also, what kind of quick disconnects could you get to make the amp rack easier to remove?
The amp rack is pretty heavy and a tight fit. I haven't had any trouble with it moving around on bumpy roads or at autocrosses.

I'd use something like this for the power & ground disconnect:

4 gauge disconnect at partsexpress

And maybe something like this for the speaker wires:

4 pin molex connectors

I'd use a simple bullet connector for the amp turn on lead and just unplug the RCAs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redna
Hey, do you happen to have that birds eye view of the Mr2 without all the audio stuff?

Could you email it to me at monimaid@cox.net if you do please?
Here's a blank version of the layout picture:

http://stephenmason.com/pics/mr2_layout_blank.jpg

I'll send it to you via e-mail as well.

-Stephen M
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post #10 of 58 (permalink) Old August 7th, 2006, 00:07
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Thanks for posting this. I am planning on doing a speaker swap soon and this will seriously help!

-The Archangel / The guy who made MR2DIE4, a long, long time ago.. in an MR2 far, far away.
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old August 7th, 2006, 18:36
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do you have t-tops? i don't know if i can put a sub-woofer where you did becuase then i don't know where to put my top when i take them down.
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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old August 7th, 2006, 21:01 Thread Starter
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I have T-tops. They can both fit behind the driver's seat; or, if you're worried about recline room, they fit in the trunk as well.
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post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old August 7th, 2006, 21:04
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The dimensions for this enclosure make a perfect fit. I believe it has an internal volume of .71 cu. ft. You can run an 8 or 10 inch sub depending on the specs. I would recommend filling the box with some sort of fiber fill and silicon sealer for a air tight enclosure and drilling a small hole to fit speaker wire.

FYI, you can buy these enclosures at any speaker outlet which are made as truck boxes. They typically cost about $20 each and can be custom painted with carpet paint found at any auto store.

I am running 2 kicker comp vr 10's with good results. The sound is accurate, tight, and loud. The only drawback is the enclosure's inability to play lower notes due to a steep dropoff. This is something to consider if you want to run 10's.


Last edited by 93TxMkii; August 7th, 2006 at 21:10.
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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old August 9th, 2006, 00:05
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Unhappy no power

hey I was just wondering how you would get the door panel off if have manual windows and manual locks. I came across a problem with the nob to roll the window up. does that just pop off or what. I just wanted to make sure before I break something.
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old August 9th, 2006, 04:07
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if i upgrade to the 93+ tweeter cover, does that i meant i can install a bigger tweeter? if so, how big can it go?? i think the 91 tweeter cover can only hold 3/4, but dunno about the 93+
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post #16 of 58 (permalink) Old August 12th, 2006, 23:31
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i bought my MR2 about a month ago... it came with an aftermarket stereo installed...

600 watt 2 channel amp for the subs mounted under my seat.... it scrapes and is a very tight fit. ive been looking for a way to mount it in the front trunk, and your way is excellent thank you!

two 12" sony 1300watt xplods in truck boxes... meaning no room for the t-tops, they fit fine in the trunk even room for a toolbox or medium sized bag. you just have to be good at tetris


i think the stock tweeters have been disconnected, mainly because i have two JL audio tweeters mounted right behind the door handles... not a bad idea for people wanting to fit bigger tweeters...

and i have infinity reference door speakers. the tweeters and speakers are powered off of my Pioneer head unit, and they are plenty loud.

heres a link to my cardomain page if anyone wants to see the system setup.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2404707




only problem with all that is that it is a home wired job, rather poor quality wiring... ive had to repair some cut wires already.

also i want really deep bass like the bass that you can get out of large ported boxes... unfortunately, ive got small sealed boxes.



sooo after all that talk. can anyone give me advice on making larger ported boxes for behind my seats? or is it impossible haha
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post #17 of 58 (permalink) Old September 1st, 2006, 07:59
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Spot the Newb!

Hi guys,
This is first post so go easy!!!lol

I just acquired a 1990 Sports UK.
The head unit has been replaced by an aftermarket. However, the guy who sold me the car wanted to keep his, and proceeded to just cut the loom behind the plugs. I had a look at Stephen's wiring diagrams, but where will I find the FR-, FL-, RL- and RR+ wires. I'm sticking a Blaupunkt head unit interim as I've already shelled out ?600 on 17" Wolfrace Matrix wheels, and the unit was only ?20.
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post #18 of 58 (permalink) Old June 30th, 2007, 14:33
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Is it easy to mount an amp(s) in the trunk and run wiring to the cockpit?
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post #19 of 58 (permalink) Old April 15th, 2008, 11:47
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useful guides. thanks for the post
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post #20 of 58 (permalink) Old September 25th, 2008, 23:55
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Not sure if anyone even checks this thread anymore, but since you adapted the stock windshield antenna adapter to the new headunit, how is the reception? I would imagine it would be at least a little worse than the power mast in the back, but how MUCH worse?
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